siteunseen

That looks as good as everything else you've done Ferg! My Man @psdenno turned me on to these when I was doing my OE radio and the console in the 240. They work great too. Sharpie silver oil based from Hobby Lobby.

ALL CLIFF... id·i·om /ˈidēəm/ noun 1. a group of words established by usage as having a meaning not deducible from those of the individual words (e.g., rain cats and dogs) 1.2 derived from all idiot (e.g., drink until eyes are floating)

I'd probably be dead if not for google.com.

You know me...google. https://www.businessaircraftcenter.com/articles/how-to-understand-ing-learn-about-aviation-avgas-jet-a-fuel-art1215.htm

I'm spit balling here, sorry but it might be something too look at. My shift lever was hitting the transmission "cup" and causing mine to pop out of gear. It was noisy also.

I really like my 240's wheel over the 280's. It gives a twitchy feedback which I like. It's like driving on a rail. Those new wheels that are straight on the bottom are interesting. I suppose you'd get more leg room but I steer with my legs a lot. Beer, phone and shifting is a lot to do.

I was buying ethyl I guess. Ran like nitrous, much colder. Carbs would frost up late in the day.

I used to run that in my boat, seems like it was 110 octane and was twice price of pump gas for cars. Is it still green?

That's gonna be my hearse.

When I was doing hurricane work we went to the plastic furniture dollies. They lasted so much longer than the wooden plus the higher weight capacity. https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-x-18-in-1000-lb-capacity-polypropylene-dolly-69566.html

What alternator are you running? I'm considering putting some rattle in the hatch of my '77. Be like 1986 with four Pioneer 6x9 ts6907 in a plywood box. The Z is a perfect coupe for LOUD.

And if you're going to buy a new aar you should reroute your pcv hoses to the '78s. It was rerouted to keep the oily funk out of the aar. This is a pic I grabbed real quick but you may want to do some better research. You can Google"78 pcv hose update classiczcars.com"

I'm sure the fsm has the specs but I'm lazy. What degrees in farenheit does it close/open. My 280 stays in a garage that never gets below 50F and it always cranks up and idles just below 1,000 but I took the aar and warming plate off to get rid of the clutter and potential problem points. I just hit the gas pedal when it's about to die out but by the time I get out of my neighborhood it's up to temp and runs fine. I think it's called "heel to toe"?

We're almost om the same page. This is a magnified picture into the larger bottom hole. Inside this red circle is a little arm that moves clockwise to open the blade in the smaller top hole about halfway to let air through, raising the rpms. It's hard to see but it's there. Looks like a flacid penis pointing to the left. I'll put 12V on the blade later and see what happens. Must mow grass and drink cold beverages first.

That is the larger bottom hole the screwdriver is in, pushing against the little arm circled in red. That's what opens this one I have.

Here's some pictures I made this morning of one I had It's closed at 60F. The red circle is what opens the top hole by way of the blade with the windings on it. I guess it twist when 12V hits it?

I'm thinking it may be a wiring connection problem too along with Zed Head. You have new parts without the fix you're after. Some people delete those things and stay on the gas pedal until it warms up. Mine had a problem where the electrical connection would twist and pull out of the aluminum body of the AAR. I've never understood dropping electrical windings in water, maybe shoot it with a heat gun or hairdryer to see if the plates move. https://www.google.com/search?q=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=r4d5YsfZHqmfqtsPlrmFkAI&oq=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARDRAzoICC4QsQMQgwE6CwgAEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCABDoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQowI6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOgsILhCABBDHARCjAjoFCC4QgAQ6CAguEIAEELEDOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARCjAjoOCC4QgAQQsQMQgwEQ1AI6CAgAEIAEEMkDOgUIABCSAzoICAAQgAQQsQM6CwguEIAEEMcBEK8BOgcIABCABBAKOgYIABAWEB46BQgAEIYDUJEMWI1VYPxhaAFwAHgBgAHMAYgB-hGSAQYwLjE0LjGYAQCgAQGwAQA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#cobssid=s&sbfbu=1&pi=aar delete classiczcars.com

I guess I'm saying once the pump is installed and timed correctly at TDC the tang should be in the position on that pic. There's a fat side and a small side you need to keep in mind. Once the pump is timed correctly your distributor should fit in place with the rotor button on #1 that lines up with the raised line on the outside of the cap just above the front clip.

Yes, after you install the oil pump it shoild look like this...

That's why I'm not married. I would have to have more than one.

It could be the water pump or the distributor button too. Get a short piece of garden hose to use a stethoscope and you can get really close with that.

Here's those pictures I mentioned earlier. The 16s on the 240 look too big but I should have gotten a smaller tire. First 2 are the 16s, rest are OE 14s plus 14s on the aluminum slots.

I found this after a quick look a my thread. Me and @madkaw had figured out a repeatable depth procedure as they will bulge if yo put them on too far/deep. Hope it helps. Ask again and I'll try harder but I remember using feeler gauges stacked together to get the same depth/height, whichever way you're looking at it. I used the distance from the head up to the bottom of the seal's bottom side of the metal band. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50909-72-240z-rebuild/?do=findComment&comment=475701&_rid=23570

Some old dusty books I found in my library... I can't find the different numbers but they're the same. Seems like I have some S numbers and some E numbers? Send them to Delta for resurfacing for sure. Great job at a good price.