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Sounds good to me! I think I can swing it early this summer if the rebuild was okay. I mated the tranny up today, laying on a heating pad tonight. It's getting close to "fire in the hole" time. Captain and myself hit a few that's for true. The poolside is what got my time. I was on vacation not probation, I didn't have anybody to check in with.

It's your high praises for the SUs. I watched "My Cousin Vinny" this morning. Marisa Tomei said her torque wrench was dead balls accurate. I thought about you when she said it was common term in the industry.

That hole is wallard out anyway. You might just put in a bigger bolt. No heli coil But then you'd need to make the pumps hole larger too.

I just got off the phone with my mechanic buddy. He says the same thing about the rings with the wet test numbers raising the compression. He says the rings gaps not staggered right could be a cause?

Yep! I think think it's an m8x125 size you'll need a heli coil for.

Mine has 3 long bolts that go to the left side. Skinny at the top, 2 bigger middle and bottom left. 2 skinny shorts go on the right side. One about 2 o'clock the other at 5 o'clock.

The lower left is a 12mm and the right one is a 10mm, looking from the front. Maybe somebody forced a 12 in there. Try your old bolts.

I've reused mine multiple times. If it does come off the valve cover, leave the bolts after loosening them up and it should stay, make sure and put the front straight side on the drivers side. I put mine on upside down once and had a small vacuum leak. I'd be hoping it's in the valve where it's loosing pressure from not seating / sealing tight. Seems easiest to repair to me.

That conforms what I put on tjete Thank you @Zed Head. I had a mini-stroke earlier when my new pressure plate wouldn't line up with the aluminum flywheel I put on yesterday. Dug out the OE flywheel and moved the pressure plate around laying face up on my bench. Found the right holes and marked them with a sharpie. Mounted right up then! Now I'm thinking I should've used thread locker on the 6 bolts? Torques at 15lbs. Probably go back and do that after I calm my nerves from the misalignment issue.

I found this showing the two plates for a Z. Think the one I'm using with just the hole for the end of the crank is for ZXs.

I appreciate that Steve, I'm definitely going to. I'm getting real close on this "quick rebuild" I started over a year ago, and it's the car I want to drive over there.

I just have pulled all the old gas out of the two I don't drive much. Plenty of lawn mower gas for this summer. I have a cheap low pressure pump with a glass filter at the end of the output hose, fortunately it was nice and clear.

During that week of painting I caught him playing grab a** with my sweet Grandmother while she was making the bed. I hope I inherited his libido.

How about my scars?!?! I got to be with him until about five years ago and that's all could think of.

There's a flat spot on the second runner that looks to be there for tapping.

Where is the PCV valve on your intake? I don't find one on this Cannon. And that's something I've not even thought about before. I'm gonna put these on someday and will have to deal with your same problem. You should PM "blodi" and ask what he did. He's the one with the plugged block like your's I showed you earlier.

I painted the interior of my Grandparents house about 15 years ago. After being married 60 years they'd quit closing doors. One morning I regrettably saw my Grandad's sagging close to his knees, looked like two baseballs inside some pantyhose.

I put the dust shield with the round hole on my 2.4 motor. It came off a ZX 5 spd with the 240mm flywheel. It lined up perfect. The one on the left is the one that came off the car but I chose the one with less opening to better keep dust/dirt out of the block. Did I make a mistake?

I'd have to let two friends drive my other Zs to see 3 rolling around here.

Thank you @jonathanrussell and @rossiz. When I get them back in the car I turn the nozzle down 10 turns from the top and leave it there, adjusting the float tabs until I get it level with the top of the nozzle. I think I'll get new floats when I do this, glue the cork gasket to the lids and hopefully never have to do it again. I put a four foot level on my other 240 yesterday, marked where the bubble was then stuck it up to the wall and drew a line that closely matches the tilt of the motor in car. Today I plan on re-mounting the carbs to the new position and checking them with the clear tubes. I'm thinking that'll get me close enough until I get the engine back in. I honestly don't think they're bad off, if at all. I rebuilt them and set them to .55", drove the car a few times pulling 6,200 rpms at the most. Decided to freshen the motor up then. Glad too, alot of loose nuts I found when disassembling. 6,200 would have found those loose nuts for me after a couple of times.

Okay, I know what you're talking about now. I may slide some heat shrink over those connections too. Another question, the A 4 spd I took out has an electrical switch above the speedo connection. It has flat spade connectors. What the hell is that? 5spd doesn't have it or even a hole for. Thanks for your help. Cliff

Thank you Zed H! When you say heat sink do you mean the rubbery stuff that sucks down around connections with heat? I call it heat shrink. Is that the same thing? Thanks again, that's a good idea.

I believe Aisin is the main player. The reman I just bolted on, I could see where Aisin or Atsugi was ground off the pump. I have Aisin on my Camry. I think the stamped steel creates some sort of electrolysis with the different types of water. The best thing is half and half using distilled water, IMHO.

Thank you both for the tips @Zed Head and @zKars but back to the polarity of the wires, does it matter which wire goes to a certain terminal? Thank you both again, Cliff.

Both mine have come loose and need to be soldered back on. Are they specific or just a ground break switch? Thanks for any help.