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Okay, I'm sorry I missed the gloves, but if y'all became adults together? Chica chica down now!

Mine stumbled up until 2,500rpm. A potentiometer in the coolant sensor wires fixed that for me. $5 from radio shack? Google that for more info. Could also be the throttle position switch. Black box under the throttle body. It kicks on or off in between 2,000 and 3,500rpms, rough guess. Google that too. Good luck.

Make sure he nozzles are moving freely. Choke cables could hinder that.

Another word, gravity! Knee-balls

Fantastic video from the Marlboro Man. Gainesville Georgia boy, Sung Kang.

Wise man!

How long do you think that motor sat until you fired it? Curious because mines been together about nine months now and is still on the engine stand. Hopefully with this nice weather I'll be able to get it cranked in a week or two. Just wondering if I should squirt lubrication in the spark plug holes?

I'm guessing y'all stayed up all night paying bills and choosing insurance policies, wearing them half fingered gloves.

I've put them into both my 240s with no problems, they slid right in. And they don't have those metal strips like the old ones. Here's amazon.com fittment page, http://www.amazon.com/Trico-44-180-Plastic-Blade-Refill/dp/B000CB3X8S/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=240Z%7C2284&Year=1972%7C1972&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive Well my old brain ain't what it never was, right. They're $7.49 at O'reilly's. Sorry.

Yes, you read that on MSA's website, the .175s were made to cover both sizes. I'll try the .190s on the first one or two to see where they hit. If they're too far off I'll order some. I got all my stuff from Schneider though, including the .190s. maybe they were getting rid of all their L series lash pads? Their website says "out of stock until further notice" which to me means they've quit selling them. From MSA's page " Size Update:Schneider and the other cam manufacturers decided to have a .175" pad size added, which covers the very common area between .170" & .180" on medium to large lift camshafts. Ask your machinist about the size you should start with."

We used to get basketball/gym floor stripper. It'll swell up and blow the top off if you don't keep it in a shaded cool area. Had a five gallon can in back of a paint truck one day, BOOM, stuff went everywhere. Worked great though, smelt sweet but really caustic. Local chemical company made it.

I use Trico 44-180 refill blades in mine. O'Reillys has them, $4 a set.

Glad you found that, should work great! You can imitate the old tough guys and strike a match off the bottom of your shoe.

Mine is 69,972. Built 02/72.

I don't think you can. You can go to Carl Becks zhome.com registry and get close by comparison. Do you not have a door plate?

You've got my curiosity up now. Which head do you have? And are saying they normally send .175s or .190s? I'm thinking it depends on the head but I could be wrong. Thanks for any info.

Did he list a different head than you? I put an "E" head on my information form, E31. Maybe your friend put an "N" head on his? or maybe a "P"? I think the valve length is different for the early heads.

When I saw that username "URGELUS" I knew he was messed up. I'm sure he has a car tag with the same. What a douchebag.

I use VR-1 10w-30 year round. They stay in a garage though, so no cold starts. My $.02 cents. On my rebuilt motor I'm about to fire up for the first time, 20 minutes, my machinist has talked me into Shell Rotella Triple Protection 10w-30 ($13.99 a gallon). It has 1,200 ppm of zinc, same as VR-1 according to what I've read but the overall additives are better in the VR-1. So after break in I'm going with VR-1. Schneider will send you a small tub of past for the cam's lobes and a pint of zinc additive for the oil, for the initial run in. I think they recommend 20 minutes too, can't remember right off but it's in the instruction you'll get with your regrind. I sent them a "Japan" stamped cam out of one of my Z heads, made a small mark so I'd know if they used it when I got it back. They didn't. I called and asked, he said they have them ready to go and mine will be used as a core for someone else's regrind. Maybe yours! here's what I got, http://schneidercams.com/270-80_FL6.aspx MSA calls it a stage 3. They sent .190 lash pads. Can't wait to put it all together but I'm going to use the stock head for break in then do the switch later this summer. Cliff

My phones been chirping all night. Just figured out why. I mistakenly hit the "notify me of replies" when I hit the "submit reply" button. I'll have to more careful when I'm using my phone. Fat fingers!

He has no conscious. Rules don't apply to him. Sociopath, by the definition.

So you bolt on as much as you can before dropping it in? That makes more sense to me, the manifolds gasket is very important in my opinion. Needs to be equally torqued all the way around and given a day or so to " squash/squish" down then retorqued in my opinion. I can have someone push the header towards the passenger's side while I lower the motor into place. On my 280 rebuild I read someone's suggestion to remove the steering rod and that turned out to be a HUGE pain in my a** reinstalling that rod. Thank you for your experience. I'm so glad I got that p79 to you! It'll be a blessing from now own I'm sure. 8^) More advice from the members please! Actually i do not want to use the lifting eye on the rear exhaust stud, nylon slings is what I'm thinking of using. Y'all are what makes this doable, it's family helping family. Thanks again!

Will you be bolting the header up before dropping the motor back in? I'm at that stage now and can't decide. Any advice would be great. Cliff

I'd guess the passenger's footwell but after looking at these diagrams, it may be under the hood on the passenger's side in front of the battery. zcarsource.com has a picture of one if that helps. https://www.google.com/search?q=fuel+pump+control+modulator+is+located+at+on+a+1983+zx+turbo+car&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiGo-yKobvLAhXHSiYKHf-eB3IQ_AUICCgC&biw=1280&bih=620#tbm=isch&q=fuel+pump+control+modulator+location+on+a+1983+zx+turbo+car&imgrc=_

I let the machinists get them for me and ended up with Hastings chrome faced rings. He says it's the same as Nissan used to begin with. The 2.4 rings are few and far between, I learned on my searches. DJ Warner used Hasting cast iron on his and they worked good for him. I would've been happy with those but I decided to let my guy make the decision. Installed them with WD-40, per his instructions. Fingers crossed!