siteunseen

How about my scars?!?! I got to be with him until about five years ago and that's all could think of.

There's a flat spot on the second runner that looks to be there for tapping.

Where is the PCV valve on your intake? I don't find one on this Cannon. And that's something I've not even thought about before. I'm gonna put these on someday and will have to deal with your same problem. You should PM "blodi" and ask what he did. He's the one with the plugged block like your's I showed you earlier.

I painted the interior of my Grandparents house about 15 years ago. After being married 60 years they'd quit closing doors. One morning I regrettably saw my Grandad's sagging close to his knees, looked like two baseballs inside some pantyhose.

I put the dust shield with the round hole on my 2.4 motor. It came off a ZX 5 spd with the 240mm flywheel. It lined up perfect. The one on the left is the one that came off the car but I chose the one with less opening to better keep dust/dirt out of the block. Did I make a mistake?

I'd have to let two friends drive my other Zs to see 3 rolling around here.

Thank you @jonathanrussell and @rossiz. When I get them back in the car I turn the nozzle down 10 turns from the top and leave it there, adjusting the float tabs until I get it level with the top of the nozzle. I think I'll get new floats when I do this, glue the cork gasket to the lids and hopefully never have to do it again. I put a four foot level on my other 240 yesterday, marked where the bubble was then stuck it up to the wall and drew a line that closely matches the tilt of the motor in car. Today I plan on re-mounting the carbs to the new position and checking them with the clear tubes. I'm thinking that'll get me close enough until I get the engine back in. I honestly don't think they're bad off, if at all. I rebuilt them and set them to .55", drove the car a few times pulling 6,200 rpms at the most. Decided to freshen the motor up then. Glad too, alot of loose nuts I found when disassembling. 6,200 would have found those loose nuts for me after a couple of times.

Okay, I know what you're talking about now. I may slide some heat shrink over those connections too. Another question, the A 4 spd I took out has an electrical switch above the speedo connection. It has flat spade connectors. What the hell is that? 5spd doesn't have it or even a hole for. Thanks for your help. Cliff

Thank you Zed H! When you say heat sink do you mean the rubbery stuff that sucks down around connections with heat? I call it heat shrink. Is that the same thing? Thanks again, that's a good idea.

I believe Aisin is the main player. The reman I just bolted on, I could see where Aisin or Atsugi was ground off the pump. I have Aisin on my Camry. I think the stamped steel creates some sort of electrolysis with the different types of water. The best thing is half and half using distilled water, IMHO.

Thank you both for the tips @Zed Head and @zKars but back to the polarity of the wires, does it matter which wire goes to a certain terminal? Thank you both again, Cliff.

Both mine have come loose and need to be soldered back on. Are they specific or just a ground break switch? Thanks for any help.

Google drive works #57-1016 I just now put that one on, from the picture posted earlier. Came from advance auto or O'Reillys. It's a reman Aisin.

Anti-seize on the threads. Gasket adhesive on the pump side. Aisin pumps at amazon.com. make sure they have the one piece impeller. That's OE and will last forever.

Where you at Jim? @Zup Award winner, you!

Hey @Jeff G 78 that's my biggest concern, leaks. Proper torque would be hard for me in the car. Rossiz has a 280 and I have a 240 which appears to have a roomier bay. The more I think about it, if I get a friend to push the motor away from the steering rod it should work. I'll read some more tonight and make a decision. Dry fitting is term I'm just getting used to. And I'll definitely use an old valve cover. Thanks Jeff and Geoff, both of you guys have solid advice. 8^)

If we had two more we'd have a nice classiczcars calender. I buy one for sure.

You need my address for shipment? Looks great!

I've decided to wait and install the header when the motor's in the bay. I may be able to get the motor/tranny in by myself that way. Also I'll be removing the front bumper, taking the front tires off and have a floor jack under the cross member to get the front as low as possible. Maybe installing the transmission cross member mount beforehand too. Put the rear tires on ramps positioned 90 degrees to the tires, pointing out instead of under the car. Any other suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks for the advice @Jeff G 78 but I would rather do this by myself, people make me nervous. Thanks @rossiz for your advice as well.

...and then the rest.

Getting closer! Baby steps. Put a new oil pump on today and used my drill to prime the oil lines. Forgot to run it counter clockwise, no oil for a couple of minutes. Scared me to death. Tomorrow I'll mate the transmission after installing all the clutch stuff.

My reputation precedes me. There's a song called "Long Haired Country Boy" that's written about me. Me and Charlie are tight.

Mine runs better after I wash it. EDIT: Just read Zed Head's post, I agree with him. I know how much better I feel after a good shower.

I've had some fun playing on MS Paint! It's a heck of alot easier with my wireless mouse than the touch pad on my laptop. Red goes from solenoid to firewall grommet. I suppose to the HVAC? The blue is open to the atmosphere, no idea about that. Yellow goes from vacuum source on the intake manifold to the TOP hole on my bottle. Orange goes from bottom hole on my bottle to Fast Idle Actuator on the intake. When you turn on the air it pulls in from vacuum and grabs the throttle rod to pull along with it, raising the RPMs at idle. Now whether or not mine is right is up for discussion.