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That's what I'm trying to say without making anybody mad or sounding like a know-it-all. If he cut the cones off and maybe tapped the suction chamber with a rubber hammer until everything was smooth then tightened the screws? We'll see soon enough, can't have too many Z parts.

Maybe the body screw holes are cross threaded? Maybe the screws are wrong? Seems like there would be scratches if something needed replacing?

I had my spares down today and was going to post some pics! I'll do it in the a.m. Mine are 3 screws with the nubbies on the front 2 screws. The rear screw has nothing. The way the nubbies are positioned, one side is above the screw hole and the other side it's below. The suction chamber can only go on one way. If you slightly tighten the screws, get the piston dropping smoothly then tighten them down it's super simple. The nozzles have to have their angled "leg" pointing to the float chamber and that's it. I won't disagree with you but the nubbies are no big deal on the 3 screws I have. They're all crumbly anyway. I'm too comfortable to go downstairs at the moment but will in the morning for pictures. I can't understand why his are fine without screws but bind with screws? I'm too frugal to buy new parts but everybody's not like me and you. Goodnight Sir.

Welcome to classiczcars.com! The archives are great. Stay in school as long as you can stand it. 8^)

Hopefully the new distributor will work the tach? That's the same diagram I followed and mine works fine. I think the only difference would be the plug I cut off a junkyard zx when I got the different mount you have to use.

It confuses me still but somehow it works out? Here's some stuff off Blue's Tech Tips that may help. There's electrical and mechanical. I do the mechanical line up first then put a light on the pulley and adjust to at least 10 degrees, mine runs better between 12 and 15. Something that'll really help is to mark all the notches with white-out or some kind of paint. Another thing, those remanufactured distributors are bare bones, no cap or button and the ZX's are bigger plus you should regap the plugs to ZX specs, can't remember off the top of my head, .46???? Mechanical, initial set up, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html When you get all that done, crank it up and turn the distributor until the pulley mark lines up with the 10 when the light flashes. If you have the 240 pulley, the one to the far left looking from the front is 0, next is 5, third one is 10 etc. Those are the ones that need paint. It's confusing! I'm not a good explainer either, sorry. My Dad never uses a light, he turns the distributor until the valve train is the smoothest sounding then backs up a tad. But he's a Chevy man.

To me that's a great analogy of children. They can be a pain but you stick with them, at least that what my parents always told me. I'll stick with dogs, they're a little less expensive.

Reading all those adjectives I had to look! Beautiful motor you have there.

Whatever you decide to do, you should fill that injector hole with something. Drilling the top hole and gravity and all that kinda stuff, you know, Murphy's Law.

I honestly don't know, I watched the DVD a couple of times then rebuilt the two carbs. They were original to the car and it had been sitting for 10 years. During the rebuilding I found the nozzles weren't dropping down and the float chambers were crudded up, the float valves were sticking too. Now they're nice and shiny and work like new (I'm guessing-I was 3 years old when they were new).

Mine have or had rubber nipples to align the dome to the body. I broke them off after watching the DVD. Steve says to loosely tighten the screws and find the smoothest spot then tighten them down. Ignoring those things. He says most are gone anyway if they've been apart.

I hope he won the Arkansas Lotto! You know how much I enjoy the cold dogs. I'll have to read up on Branson's gathering. I haven't heard about that one yet.

Good deal! That's why I was suggesting other ways. Now you can get a car cover. Don't give up on the '77, I love mine and I think, from reading on here for five years, there's more information on a '77 than any other 280. Just a coincidence I suppose. Here's mine without the Rewinds. Just like high school.

I'm jealous! No more ticking, problem solved, that's all that matters.

Is the hole just wollard out and the screw won't get a grip? If that's the case you should be able to find some kind of screw that would get a hold and tighten down. Those intakes are soft aluminum. A small lag screw? something just to get by so you can move on to bigger things. Nobody will know but you.

I watched this episode of Gilligan's Island the other day and started laughing thinking about Al's "engine builder", if he actually has one.

For inside "dust covers" I use the large size ones from Advance Auto, $25. I parked my 280 outside last summer. Bought a $100 dollar breathable one this time. Now the 280 is inside with rusty bits and pieces and my newer Camry is outside, the cover has shredded already. I've read good things about these covers and they do ask for the particular car, not size 1, 2 or 3. If I decide to buy another cover I'm calling these guys to ask about mirror pockets and custom fitting. My .02 cents. http://www.beverlyhillsautocovers.com/car-covers.html?find=1977-nissan-280z-base-4223363

I'm glad you've found a "good" side to your ordeal with datsun parts llc. You're a glass is half full kinda guy, great quality to have. So the compression rings were on the bottom? And the oil rings were cut to fit? If so, that has to be the absolute worst I've ever heard. Were the oil rings top and bottom rails installed? I won't even ask about staggered gaps. You're a much better man than me!

I think I'd tap it to the next size.

That's funny! Paint stripper smells good too.

You said it best, "onions"! I learned pretty quick, get it up off the floor with jack stands or ramps. They don't make a pain pill strong enough for bending over these cars for any amount of time.

I thought it was the South Pole?

What about the hole in the top of the nozzle? It seems like Steve from the dvd mentions someway to compensate if that hole is off centered. Maybe the drill thing I was thinking of had something to do with that? I'm not sure though, it's been awhile since I've watched it. I think that maybe my mistake Mark, I was thinking there was a way to keep them from binding in the nozzle. Sorry for any bad advice.

Chuck the needle in a drill and slowly work it with emory cloth.

They're not really o-rings. Just rubber shaped like zeroes. You'll get the big one for the body and smaller one for the tip. FWIW Plus a solid clamp, fj707t. Those have a different spray nozzle that I think is better. No small pin hole like the others. My $.02 cents only.