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About KDMatt

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    Minneapolis, MN
  • Occupation
    Vocal Production Assistant

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    She's a pain my ass sometimes, but I love her to death.

    I don't intend for this to be a ground-up resto (yet); I'm aiming to do something more akin to a 'refresh' project ... replacing things as they break, and fixing issues as they come along.

    I'd like to do a rebuild, and eventually go turbo (potentially with Megasquirt), but we'll see what time/budget allow.

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  1. Did you ever check your reaction disc? Be careful you don't lose it in the booster if you mess with the rod!
  2. +1 This is exactly what it sounds like to me. I think he mentioned that he replaced the booster -- I can't remember since it's been a while, but replacement boosters typically include new rods don't they? I think I remember seeing that OP's replacement booster was for a 2+2, which might explain why the rod length changed.
  3. Spendy? Oh yes. They don't make them anymore, so I had to track down a NOS one on eBay. About 80 bucks... but worth the peace of mind. Alright, so there's a green wire with dark green stripes that runs through the whole deal on the passenger side, and that's the positive lead for the fuel pump. Alright. I'll try to track down these junctions, check their conditions, and check voltage. Thank you for this diagram! Where did it come from?
  4. Correct. That's the one I replaced. Small, silver, and under the driver's side panel, just above the ECU --- This thing: The t'ed wire I'm talking about comes off of that. IIRC, on the '76, this relay controls the fuel pump as well as power to the EFI stuff, like the auxiliary air regulator. That is to say, with this thing removed, absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key to on or even try to click the starter. Could you elaborate on the "connector next to the passenger seat" though...? I'm keeping a multimeter in my car right now so, if it happens again, I can ju
  5. I just replaced the relay though. I never had a problem with it, even with the old one I had that had gotten a bit mangled. If I'm not mistaken, the wires that got bypassed/T-ed are the ones for the AFM shutoff switch.
  6. Hey guys, thank you for the replies! Going into the meat of this business with the fuel pump... my understanding of the L-Jetronic system in this car was that the pressure in the system was maintained by the FPR in the middle of the OEM rail... otherwise there is nothing to keep all the fuel from running back down the return line. I'm assuming the check-valve is what maintains pressure while the pump is powered and running? As I said before, right now I have an aftermarket FPR and aftermarket fuel-rail in the car. As far as I'm aware the design of the former is supposed to let it de
  7. Thanks for the quick replies! @siteunseen -- the pump still only runs when the key is switched to "ON" so it shouldn't have abnormally high wear or use on it... Plus it's not very old. Thanks for the well-wishes. @Zed Head -- car's a '76, and yes I can tell when the pump is running because it makes audible noise... In fact, my roommate has walked into the garage many times while I'm tinkering and asked what that "buzzing noise" is from the back of the car... in that respect, in addition to the flatlined FPR readout, it's easy to tell when the pump isn't running. A previous owne
  8. So I've finally started driving my Z again after about 5 weeks of extensive rehab. Today was her first day to the office and back home... About a mile from my house (on a slower main thoroughfare) the motor suddenly died. Some notes on the modifications that have been made to the car: 1 - The fuel pump shutoff has been bypassed, so the pump will begin to run as soon as the key is switched "ON" and continue to run until the key has been switched "OFF" 2 - The stock fuel rail has been removed in favor of a solid billet-aluminum one with an adjustable FPR that provides a fuel-pres
  9. I think I was just in a hurry before and didn't have all of the lobes/cylinders at TDC, so as you might imagine some of the clearances were off. Now that they're all correct to 'cold-spec' (after sitting for a few days) it's nice and quiet like it ought to be. I just use a 14mm wrench, and 17mm wrench, along with the go/no-go method on the feeler gauges... and yeah, the locknut tends to move the adjustment out of spec -- I figured that out the hard way, but that wasn't why it was out of spec -- it was out of spec because I wasn't being fastidious about the rotation of the cam lobes.
  10. Sorry about the delay. I had to finish installing all my new shocks and springs this week. I re-checked the valve lash and you guys were right. Some of them were WAY out of spec. Not sure how that happened, but after re-adjusting the ones that had gone wonky the whole thing quieted down considerably. Now I just need to re-tune a bit more... adjust fuel mixture and what have you... getting a bit of backfire out of the intake, but I doubt that's related to this particular project.
  11. Correct. The seals are replaced, the engine is all back together, and it's running ... very smoothly too I might add. I gave it some fresh gas and a fresh filter this weekend so I could correctly tune the ignition timing and fuel pressure (because adjustable FPR), and I would venture to say this is the nicest I have ever had this motor running... save for the added noise. The extra noise I've picked up is definitely from the valve/cam area -- I've had this car for 11 years and have never been able to hear valve or cam noise from inside the cabin of the car while driving. I suppose t
  12. So, before we let this thread fall into the annals of CZC.com history... ... is the valve ticking/tapping in and of itself anything to worry about if the car seems to be running well otherwise? I'm assuming at some point I should just plan to replace the tappets, lash-pads, and retaining springs in the future, but for the time being the engine isn't going to self-destruct, right? I've only ever dealt with 'ticking' on cars with hydraulic lifters, which is a different ballgame.
  13. I read this out loud. The glare I got from across the room was priceless. "You're not getting any more cars until we move" ... which doesn't mean never!!
  14. I got lucky on the Trans Am project. She and I are big Knight Rider fans, so when I told her I had the opportunity to get a great deal on an '82 Trans Am, she was the very first person to tell me I should do it, haha... Between her and our housemate, we've got 5 cars here... If I showed up with a sixth there would definitely be hell to pay. ... I might get a free pass if it were a Delorean though... in any case! I probably won't start driving this car on the regular until at least next week... so I'll just let it run like this for a while, and then re-adjust the lash after it's had a cha
  15. For sure! I don't think this thing has ever run this well in the 11 years I've owned it. It already feels like a completely different car and I'm not even finished! New shocks and springs this weekend (stay tuned for THAT thread, lol) -- I just needed to stop being a chicken about diving in there and just getting it done. After years of working on various other cars... a Beemer, couple of Honda motors, the T/A, my Mustang, I remembered how delightfully simple this 40-year-old Nissan powertrain is... kind of keeps things in perspective. Besides, she turned 40 this year. She's in the throws
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