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I've bought 2 sets from these guys. They are high quality too, not cheap as you would think off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/110687628566?hash=item19c57f2d16:g:l8cAAOxyn9BRZsRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8DfMmYIdef%2BSZiKbYt7w33lBvjkAJOjX5orwX4%2FBMHywvT7ril9%2F1yrM1Oq4%2BL9jh9b%2BP2i5R806emTN6nE4EYlaunW5JvbVJY80L%2B7p8Je3KoRrA12ak7NSQW4Xv6WsLh8sNwoW0%2BVY8zD6cCZ2r%2BajJxaYv7DqBMoakhE5IEFvYtWot4Mo0OvI70SvwGCET1gDauTgDGdIbRNR1NUt6pWwZK3huPdozLHyjIUTSsMoHNBd%2BnZLv1S6%2BwvgbhIxSuQSgCcYwsB3TBknxSLIfprt466rsGwHSFUC7pXBydrJDqPfeI9%2F41hQSVyU5pl19w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5Kq9qHlYQ

Ive only seen the acorn "fat bottomed" lugs. If he let you borrow his wheels surely he'll let you borrow the fastners. Not much good when they're not together. My aluminum slots had the self centering acorns with a washer to keep from scarring up the aluminum. My rewinds don't. I buy them off ebay for less than $20. Seven years ago price! They probably $50 now.

Sounds like another California Datsun. They started out the right way and ending up going the other way. Not real Datsun guys I believe. Market had a hole and they crapped in it. I can't recall the the name of that Ebay Datsun rapist that got me when I first bought online parts. His prices were outrageous but he had what I needed.

That looks great. I suggests you check your torsion control arm bushings. They play a big part in your steering wheel feel and shake.

I used a square 9 volt battery to get the pluses and minuses right when I cared about loud. Now I use my phone and a bluetooth speaker when, hardly never!, I go long. The exhaust is Rod Stewart sounding. I've always thought 12 volt car stuff was the lower 4 ohms because of the lower power 12 volt systems have. 110/120 house volts is 8 ohms. Is it 110-220 or 120-240 AC volts? I've heard both over my life but would like to know.

From what I remember when putting the stock radio back into my '72 the ground was through the chassis. The black wire is from the antenna.

Post #9

Here's some stuff I found on two pipes you could read over that may be helpful? https://www.google.com/search?q=twice+pipes+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=twice+pipes+classiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.10873j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 https://www.google.com/search?q=dual+exhaust+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=sRYaZL_XLcGyqtsPyoy2yAE&ved=0ahUKEwj_86am8e39AhVBmWoFHUqGDRkQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=dual+exhaust+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIFCAAQogQyBQgAEKIEMgUIABCiBDoICAAQogQQsAM6BQghEKsCOgcIABANEIAEOggIABAIEB4QDToKCAAQCBAeEA0QD0oECEEYAVCwBljPO2CVS2gBcAB4AIAB0gGIAaEUkgEGMC4xNy4ymAEAoAEByAECwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Something I realized after a couple is when tightening the lock nut the adjuster nut will turn and get the spec off so I always hold the 14mm adjuster while I tighten the 17mm lock nut. Another thing I do that most people laugh at but why not? . Our motors are tilted pretty hard if you look so I've marked the center off my cam towers with a Sharpie and get the lobes lined up with my mark instead off straight up. It's one of those why not OCD things but...why not.

I thought my 240's core was bad when I bought the car but after pressure testing it with positive air or my shop-vac sucking negative pressure I realized it was okay. The flow valve was where all the leaking was coming from. Check the core somehow before you buy another one. It may be the same situation I had, still a tough job but nowhere near as much as replacing the heater core. I suggest taking the passenger's seat out and put a couch cushion over the door sill and use 1/4" drive sockets.

Yes! That valence makes all the difference in the world when you get up in the MPHs. You saw that it is adjustable too so you can get it up close and snug with the spoiler. The two 10mm below the side marker lights were my biggest pain.

I downloaded some songs off Napster in the late 90s of "Josh Homme in the Desert", that's all it said. You could hear generators in between songs running the equipment. Turned out to be one of my all time favorite bands. Another fluke band that turned out to be a favorite, Kings of Leon. A bunch of brothers, I think from Kentucky maybe, their Dad was a preacher if I remember right. They were meth heads.

Black diamond works good on steel but the round glass beads are best for aluminum in my opinion. Both I bought from tractor supply. I put my parts in a big plastic storage tub and that in the middle of my tarp. Bought a big strainer from walmart and reused the cleaned material. Worked good and saved me money on blast supplies.

I wonder if new floats from ztherapy would make the fuel level in the chambers be at the correct 23mm down from the lids? Seems like they would. Has anybody bought these and what were the results if you don't mind sharing? $50 would be a drop in the bucket compared to the year of frustration I dealt with trying to set mine the "easy" way of .55" measurement.

That's where I bought mine. Still working since 2015.

I've wondered if that foam would absorb any fuel making them heavier? Seems like it would. @Captain Obvious after your float work do you think they could absorb any fluid?

I'd chat with her! Love those dimples.

I found my bowl lids were loose and the carbs were sucking in air. No vroom vroom. Make sure those Phillips head screws are snug. Have you pushed a WD-40 straw down the vent bung to push down on top of the floats? If it's bouncy there's fuel, if not they're dry.

It's clickbait stuff. I see it on my work computer that I won't sign in on. What about the funny tshirts ads? I get flogged with them.

That guy has some cool cars.

From what I've read they figured another, way maybe better design weather stripping? Seems like they quit using them about the same time as the smaller spare tire and larger fuel tank, raised hatched floor and I believe they added anothet hatch lifting strut rod. Not sure on anything but my 9/76 doesn't have them but has the other stuff I mentioned. These cars are like adopted pound dogs. There's a lot of uncertainty that makes them special.

That filter right out of the tank should be full just from gravity. Take the gas cap off and see it gets full. You can also blow air in the filler hole by covering it with your hand and sticking the air wand between fingers. That force a little pressure on the tank.

You have the smaller return like @Captain Obvious shows in that thread up top. It's in the fuel rail, the FPR (fuel pressure reducer) You could take the input side from the fuel tank and put it in a jug, run the electric pump and see what comes, volume wise. Hell suck on it. you'll see the filter fill up before you get a mouth full.