siteunseen

Would a leak down reading show the valves aren't seating tight or the rings are worn? I've never performed one so I am curious and just to get more Z dialogue on the forum I'll wait for your reply and not use google.com. Thanks for any information about our cars.

Love Navin! "These cans are defective"

Squirt the belt(s) and pulley with Windex or something similar. See if that stops it. It does have the symptoms of squeaking belts as @jonbill mentioned earlier.

I happened upon that too, today. Hadn't tried looking at a member's profile in years though.

It looks good to me as is. I have what jonbill suggested done to mine. They called it "collapsing" the springs. I run 15" wheels and really like the look. Looking closer, the front may be a little higher? I'm not sure the brand name but I've read there are "front" and "rear" specific struts that have been installed wrong.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/Common-Spark-Plug-Problems.html#:~:text=Oil fouling occurs when oil is allowed to enter the combustion chamber.&text=Oil deposits cover the spark,sign of advanced engine wear.

How about trying a retorque of the head bolts. Low in the front and rear is odd. I torque mine from the center out.

Damn, that looks familiar. @Diseazd Except the tag.

Typing to twisting wires! Hope the weather gets better soon. Down here cold equals kids. I bought a heat lamp when I was 15.

Mowed mine and my neighbors yards. Let the 2 sleeping Zs idle in the garage for an hour, accidentally too! I forgot about them until I got my blower.

It looks carbon fouled to me but "we are still guessing here".. I would run Sea Foam through every so often because extended idle causes carbon fouling.

I don't know how but mine blow with the motor rpm's until the thermostat opens. I crank them at least once a month holding at 2,000 inside the garage, the fan gets quiter and then I see coolant flowing across the top of the radiator. This is something you guys already talked about I'm guessing but I finally read what explains it to me in simpleton speak.

I helped a buddy of mine replace the starter on his Toyota Tundra pickup last weekend. My main job was to keep him from unloading his pistol unnecessarily. It's located under the intake.

See how many rounds you can spin the fan by hand when it's cold. I can't get one complete rotation on mine. I found the restore clutch from Blue's Tech Tips. It's a download now, the original site is unavailable. FAN 280zx Datsun rebuild fan clutch (1).pdf

I found an old thread from @Jarvo2 that maybe helpful? Couldn't find your taken apart thread Zed Head. https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+advance+Zed+Head+classiczcars.com&bih=688&biw=1455&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&hl=en&sxsrf=AJOqlzVK5ONJsSCqMcJz2sHkT2mwvGxntA%3A1676663907335&ei=Y9zvY6qBFKGmqtsP5P68uAk&ved=0ahUKEwjqvurkq539AhUhk2oFHWQ_D5cQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=vacuum+advance+Zed+Head+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIICCEQoAEQwwQyCAghEKABEMMEOggIABCGAxCwAzoFCAAQogQ6CggAEPEEEB4QogRKBAhBGAFQ6QZYtxlgoSdoAnAAeACAAZQBiAHBA5IBAzEuM5gBAKABAcgBAsABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Have you tried to bypass the possibility of a dirty fuel tank and run the fuel hose that comes from the tank to a 2 gallon gas jug? I did this on my '72, put the can between the grill and the radiator and secured it with bungee cords. Drove around the neighborhood, it ran fine off the jug. That's when I found that I a tank full of crud.

Yeah the efi cars use high pressure pumps which pump about 40 to 50lbs until the pressure regulator. That kind of pressure will find a loose connection or split in a hurry.

Also the newer filters that I hate, aren't quart size so they throw off the standard 5 qts. that we all know. I use these...

He's going to send it back on the wooden crates he makes I would bet unless you want your metal crate back. I've made a couple of those crates and put steel casters on them to roll the blocks around while rebuilding. It's nice to be able to sit down and work on the motors. @Diseazd has a wall lined with original motors stored on them. Here's a L2.8 block on one I've used to hold the cylinder head down while I did some work on it.

Apparently I've bumped my head and missed a few days. You were driving it a few days ago and had a gauge on there showing it was dropping psi with higher engine speed. Now you're able to remove the main bearings. Since it is apart take the oil filter off and push on that shiny metal ball and check how stiff or soft it is to push in. Just for poops and giggles I'd like to know. It should be about as hard to push down as poking in the sidewall of the tires a little bit. Pretty hard I'd say. Thanks

I'm pretty sure that's the same as my '77. #305 metallic blue.

What's your method for repairs?