siteunseen

I think I turn these slightly clockwise, the rear ones???. The fronts are opposite. You'll get it just be easy and when you get them off use some fuel resistant RTV black i think and glue the float chamber lid gasket onto the lids. It'll save you many big time headaches in the future.

Yes, they are made kind of shaped like a circle but idents on the sides where the bolts/screws hold them in place. If you lift up and turn them where the narrow part barely clears the carb body it'll raise up. Just barely but it will.

See how we flock together? Like blackbirds.

Good call Charles and Mark! They can be disassembled and cleaned too.

That couldn't hurt I wouldn't think, just make sure the pistons maintain their free falling when you tighten down the domes. Is this something that just began happening, has it not been a problem previously? You could take the handle of a screwdriver and lightly tap around the float chambers to un-stick the floats if they could be stuck. Another way is stick a small red tube off a WD-40 can down the the vent bungs and see if the floats feel "bouncy" or buoyant in the fuel. Your fuel pressure couldn't have increased in any way? Sorry I'm just guessing but it will start a bunch of others to add their thoughts. Good luck. Cliff

I guess I would lift the pistons and see if they drop down freely? That's what the needles are attached to and the needles seat into the nozzles which close off fuel flow.

There's a vinyl rectangle on the inside bottom of the rear hatch above the locking mechanism. Mine needed resealing I thought but after the simple first fix I found the evap hoses that run behind the interior plasic cover where the brake lights are was were mine was stinking. There's a couple of round rubber plugs that dry rot and crack also. That stuff seems minimal but the way the air flows over the hatch and kind of rolls over and over behind the taillights above the rear bumper it gets sucked into the cab pretty good. I used duct tape and covered everything to see what helped and what didn't. Once I figured out where it was coming from I fixed things and moved to the next possible source. Eventually it went away. During the mean time I kept the driver's side window down.

The high fuel reading may be from the rod on the new sending unit not matching the bend of the previous, most likely the OE. I know you can touch those wires together and it will show FULL on the gauge. You may have them on the wrong terminals. The thread I linked above describes which one to what post. Hope it helps.

Those are for a fuel pump.

Cruel and unusual punishment is over for the next few days. Mother Nature is an illegal border crosser from Canada, she's overburdening our air "Build the wall".

Do you need a oiler cam or is it pre 9/76 that has the spray bar? I've got some "JAPAN" stamped S30 oe cams and I might consider selling. Heres a chart on original cams... https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Okay a comma would've been best, ..."good and tight, (coma) all of the connections while your bent over." Picky, picky, picky. If your last name isn't Strunk or White back off. I'm from Alabama. I get some leeway. Furthermore sniffing my house plants makes me sneeze. You must smoke them skunks like turkey meat.

The guy I work for is doomsday prepper and has a huge house about half a mile from me. Generac that uses natural gas to run a 4 cylinder Ford motor and a walk in liquor/wine cellar. Always welcome so I hope my power goes out.

My computer is 'frozen up'

That means 2 things.

Somebody posted this stuff a day or so ago. It's close to what my dentist uses on my teeth. Amazing how it works at the dentist and now that I can jb weld my teeth myself no more white coat anxiety and a lot less money.

Yeah it's nice to live where you do you rascal. Merry Christmas Dennis.

I can't find @240260280 photo of all his cars covered in his driveway, Nova Scotia I think. Did find ol' Blue pretty deep.

They watch me struggle to crank my old br600, 2009 model. It won't hold fuel so pull pull pull but when it starts it does fine. It needs a $65 carb and when I put that on I'm putting this new one on my mantle!

Best present ever! My neighbors, young money makers with 2 young babies that i took under my wing, helping in their yard and feeding their animals just dropped of my present. I'm speechless... There really are Christmas miracles.

Raw gas smell or burnt exhaust would be a good tell.

I've watched my Dad whack the solenoid with the handle end of a big screwdriver and it fixed it for how long I'm not too sure. If it's an older starter clean the contacts and make sure the small wire up top seats onto the terminal good and tight. All of the connections while your bent over. I've read shining the ground metal on the starter fixed one. The black one from the battery to the starter mount bolt. Good luck!

I'm somewhat anxious about this drop in temp. Haven't had the problem since 1989, now it's back. Hopefully there will be no damage if I just stay home. No early morning drives for me. Stay safe friends and have merry Christmas.

That something I do every single time I have my hood up, click that light on. Strange habbit, strange guy but I feel like the plastic toggle won't break if I use it regularly. So far, so good. I didn't know they have the extra wire under them until I saw one for sale on Ebay. Instructions and owner's manuals have never meant much to me.