Captain Obvious

That's why I'm still using a desktop. Only issue is when I travel.

Weird. Mike's message looked fine to me all three times. Must be the Canuck having trouble with the Texas accent. I'm in the middle, so I understand both, eh?

That's what I was thinking as well. Looks just like the work that my PO did:

And to be honest... That passenger side looks too narrow. I wouldn't want any gap at all. I would want to have to squeeze that one into place as well.

I found I needed to slightly modify the driver's side poly bushing to get it to fit to the rack correctly. And even then, it was a tight fit. I had to tap it into place with a plastic mallet. Here's two pics of the reason, but there are lots of details in this thread. Pictures have been reloaded to page four: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?page=4

That's simply awesome.

It's not 27 Ohms. It's either 270 Ohms, or 2.7 Ohms depending on the color of that third band and I can't tell from the photo if that third band is brown or gold. If I had to guess, I would say it's gold, making it a 2.7 Ohm resistor. As for the purpose... I wasn't there when they designed the thing, but (again if I had to guess), I would theorize the reason the resistor exists is to take advantage of the fact that the "hold" current for the relay magnet is lower than the "pull-in" current. The initial pull in is a straight connection to system voltage through the ignition switch, but once the relay has pulled in and the engine has started, the AFM switch wouldn't need to handle as much current to keep it closed. Conjecture, of course.

Tamo, Just wanted to say that I'm glad you got to the root of the problem and let you know that I read your post and wanted to help, but I know nothing about the CS144. I was hoping someone else here would chime in. So I'm just happy you got the help you needed, even if it wasn't from here.

I've seen that type of failure a number of times in the past on old equipment. Both on wires pulling through tabs like you had there and the solder ball on the bottom of bulbs. I suspect that even though the operating temperature isn't high enough to actually "melt" the solder, it is high enough to just slightly plasticize the consistency. I'm thinking that the constant pressure or strain combined with the plasticized hardness is enough that it very slowly creeps over the years. Sometimes resulting in a failure like you had there. I'm sure you've seen this too in other applications.

I believe that is the case as well. I think the extent of the effects is related to the grade of stainless and the temperature reached. But you're right... Nowhere to go but up, and you went way up! And even if the stainless properties are down a little, it's not like it's going to spontaneously rust overnight in that one spot. It might surface rust slowly or something like that. An occasional buff down with scotchbrite would probably be enough to keep from attracting undesired attention.

Nice work on working that trim piece. Only thing I would point out is that stainless sometimes degrades or loses it's stainless-ness when it gets hot. I'm not sure how hot it needs to be for this to happen, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's not as corrosion resistant in that area after the torch. Not that it really matters though! You didn't have much to lose, and even if it's not as good as it used to be, it's still way better than crinkled!

(Not surprisingly) great sleuthing there SteveJ! What about the root cause? Why do you think that wire came off the back of the socket? Heat? Vibration? Mechanical overstress? Something else?

This is a great site with wonderful members. Hopefully you'll be able to meet many of them in person. PS - Did you have your car at New Hope this year?

Har-dee-har-har. You funny guy. Seriously though., beautiful car, and excellent workmanship.

That better be southern sweet tea (at least that's what we call it up here). You probably just call it "tea".

"sorta like going to work without your pants on" Wait... You've done that too??? Whew! I feel a little better knowing I'm in good company!!

And yes... The front end will be significantly higher than desired without the weight of the engine. Putting the engine in will drop the height quite a bit.

Yes, adding resistance to the temp sensor(s) adds fuel. It's easy to add fuel. It's more difficult to reduce it. @DC871F So there is a lot of help already being provided here and I'm not going to get in the middle of that, but I would like some clarity about the problem being chased. The original problem was described as "hesitation during acceleration. Runs fine at highway speeds and intermediate speeds other than acceleration." So what does "acceleration" mean? Are you talking "normal gradual speed increase up to a typical cruising speed", or are you talking "I put my foot hard into it and it sputters at or near wide open throttle?" Reason I ask is that (as Zed Head alluded to earlier) the distributor advance signal is a port vacuum source and only exists at cruising pedal positions. At idle and at WOT, there is no vacuum presented to the distributor. If the problem is at WOT, it sounds more like a TPS or fuel pressure issue (fuel pump or a dirty filter(s) or plugged lines). Yes, you need to get your vacuum advance fixed, but that small vacuum leak should not have much of an effect on anything beyond cruising gas pedal position. Oh well... So much for not getting involved.

Whaaaaa?? This should be long fixed by now! I know it's a lot more fun to drive the thing than to work on it*, but you've got to bite the bullet sometime. Haha!! * (except for @siteunseen who has claimed he would rather work on them than drive them)

What he said!!!

Actually, he explicitly says the dash has no "crakes". So I'll offer up a third possibility in addition to the two much more highly probable suggestions listed above - Maybe "crakes" wasn't a typo and actually means something to the guy who wrote the ad. I'm Captain Obvious, and I approve this message. Biggest problem for me is the salvage title. Unless you wash it by questionable and/or unethical means, it'll haunt that car forever. PS - Not sure if this is the case or not, but something about that ad makes me think that the person who wrote that ad isn't the same person that owns the car. Not sure what it is, but I get that vibe.

Another bright side? They say heat makes the spindle pins easier to get out. Those should fall right out.

So do you think they are PURPOSELY trying to help get the Trojan installed, or do they just not understand?

Haha!!! I love that bit! I've heard that thing a thousand times on the radio, but never knew there was a video for it. Thanks for that! They used to play that one on a morning radio show in the Phila area. Along with (not sure if they're the official names) - Nikki Hoi, Wet Dream, I want a Jaguar, I'm miz-a-ble, right?, 'Cause I'm a Blonde, But then I got high, and many others! And JSM... You're right! It does look like him! Put a HAM radio mic in the pic, and you nailed it!