Captain Obvious

I misunderstood then. I thought this was a mix of some that had the recess and some that did not. Mix of stock and aftermarket. As you were!

If the stock lash pads have a recessed area for the valve stem tip on the underside, then simply measuring the overall thickness is not a suitable measurement to compare against one that does not have a recess. The important part is the distance between the valve tip and the follower face. If there is a recess on the underside, you have to subtract the depth of the recess. So I don't know exactly how you're measuring the pads, but if you're just putting the two of them next to each other on the table and saying "one is thicker than the other", you may not getting the full story. I also don't know if you are including the height of the locator "wings" on the top of the pads either. The height of those side wings are not really important. You only care about the location of the grooved out face between those two wings. Kinda hard to describe with just words... If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I can whip up some sketches.

Great... Sounds like the helicoil was installed by the same guy who but my rebuilt starter together. Glad you found it before it was too late. So, since they claim the helicoil is a "normal repair", are they going to take that one back for refund? Or are you stuck with the cost?

Now there's a concept I've never seen mentioned anywhere ever before!!! Wonder how much market there would be for something like that! HAHA! One thing to keep in mind though, is that the resistor trick can only be used to supply additional fuel, not take any away. The leanest it's going to run is with the sensor connected directly with no extra auxiliary resistance. So if you're going to use a microprocessor to adjust a "resistor" based on O2 feedback, the first thing you'll have to do is adjust the original system so that it runs lean. That way, the processor can add in additional resistance to compensate. Yes, I think it could work. No, I'm not going to do it.

Oh how I hate rebuilt components that I did not do myself. That helicoil should not be in the sealing path for brake fluid. The seal should be made at the beveled surface inside. Assuming, of course, that the helicoil is installed straight and square to the seal, and is actually the correct metric thread for the application..... No guarantees on any of that! I hate rebuilds!!

Thanks for the cover. You're the best!!

I'm not sure how well that procedure would translate to other languages, or how much sense it would make to someone who's native language is not English. You might be about to find out...

Yeah, you can't spin the clip around the back because of the shape of the yoke. The way it's on is the only way it will fit. If Wheeeeeeeee!! had to use the hydraulic press to get those caps in, I suspect the clips are like belt and suspenders. Haha!! Sounds like something I would do. That unmistakable sound of something going awry under much pressure. Might not have needed them then, but I hope you were wearing safety glasses!!

@Bruce Palmer What is your recommended process for dealing with needle alignment on the three screw 72 carbs when the alignment cones have been sheared off? Is that addressed in your instructions or your video? I thought I had seen some documentation about how to handle this in the past, but I can't put my fingers on it. I mean, I know what I would do, but for someone who doesn't understand the issue... What do you guys recommend?

The nut in the center of the disk is a clutch tension. Better too loose than too tight. If it's too loose, the clutch will slip before the mast is all the way up. But if it's too tight, the rope you are trying to push will (as you discovered) buckle.

Oh, and hoping I don't sound pessimistic. I forgot to mention... Hoping it works great, and thanks for digging up the alternative!

That's what I meant about only the tips of C-clip legs making contact with the yoke and the center portion floating out in air. Because of the beveled edges of the yoke, you've only got contact on maybe 25% of the entire circumference. Here's to hoping that's enough!

So you're saying you can't get that brake line installed unless you loop it under the parking brake cable? Can't you rotate the banjo connection to another position that would put the line in a better location? I know that many calipers have cast in features that help prevent the banjo from spinning while you turn the bolt... If your caliper has that feature, maybe you could cut one or more of the tabs off?

Hmmm... They should sorta travel together, but I think I'd put the brake hose on the other side. I just don't like the looks of the brake line looped around anything. Have you made up your mind on the carbs yet?

Clean enough to eat off. Looks great. Did you remember to mark the parts so you get them back together the same way?

I would never put paint on a precision machined surface that is supposed to be a metal-to metal mounting, clamping, or reference point. Might just be me, but a couple molecule thick layer of plating is all I would be comfortable with.

Wow. Neat find. I looked over the info at the website, and all indications are that it (supposedly) will work. Only thing that looks like a little hokey to me is that there won't be a full surface contact area for the clips. Because of the way the yoke is machined off at an angle like that, only the "tips of the legs" of the clips will be doing any retention. the bottom "U" portion of the clips will be floating in air. Assuming I'm understanding the geometry correctly...

I simply cannot believe they would have used 5/16 - 20. Sometimes an assembly trick is to make the two ends different so you cannot put something together wrong. But in that case, you don't make them just slightly different... You make them significantly different. I gotta believe they are (supposed to be) M8 x 1.25 on both ends. Do you have a 5/16 - 20 die that DOES fit? I've seen stuff where the threads are stretched either from overtorque or years of differential rates of thermal expansion. Or maybe there's aluminum residue galled into the threads? Or maybe threadlock compound? Or maybe the crests are rounded over as an anti-vibration retention technique? Just tossing out ideas. Have you looked closely at the threads with magnification?

Good. I was wondering how you were doing. Looking forward to the pics.

Sheesh. 70kmh is a walk in the park. So... Which vehicle got hit? Something really nice, or something so-so?

Well I have great faith in you that if you really wanted that old U-joint out of the shaft, you could accomplish that task. Complete confidence. So a question for the collective... On the driveshaft's with the staked in U-joints. If you DO manage to get the old U-joint out, are new replacements available?

Woof. Let's hope this isn't a trend. Hope everyone is OK!! My first Z was totaled on the highway at the hands of a eighteen wheeler. I (unbelievably) walked away without a scratch, but I didn't sleep well for a long time. Every time I closed my eyes, I replayed the accident in my mind. I don't think there was any direct physical injury as a result of the accident, but there were latent muscle cramps all over that I believe were stress induced. The other guys insurance was quite interested in settling as well. It requires hand gestures and such, but someone remind me at Zcon and I'll go through the whole accident description. It's quite entertaining (now).

Actually, I believe he and I are saying the exact same thing. I think we are both recommending using poly on the compression side. If I'm understanding his info correctly, the confusion may come from differences between the suspension geometries of the 510 and the Z? I'm not a 510 guy, but it sounds like the 510 T/C rods run the opposite direction to those on the Z? But I believe we are both saying the same thing?

Yup. Easy peasy. Just like the spindle pin. Sounds like you just need stronger fingers. What could possibly go wrong... go wrong... go wrong... Haha! Glad you got it out.

Oy. How bout them E-A-G-L-E-S!!!!! Captain Out.