Patcon

I also second Madkaw's question. I assume you assembled the bottom end did you plasti-gage or mic your clearances? C

I agree the head sounds flat but is the block flat, clean, true. Are all the head bolt holes tapped and chased. Did you use any lubricant on the head bolts. I don't know what the FSM recommends but ARP bolts require lube to get the right torque values. A small dose of stop leak might be an easy way out... Charles

I hate that. I have built a number of engines Z's and others. I agree the bearing clearances on a polished crank running standard bearings should be on the loose side not too tight. I am curious to see which bearings or whether it's all of them. Take some pictures of each bearing and keep them in order. I have had motors destroyed like this but from different circumstances. I have one motor I built that has excessive oil pressure that I have yet to identify. I tend to agree that you had a blockage or partial blockage somewhere, junk out of the filter, a piece of gasket or a loose piece of RTV something. If the bearings are evenly worn and cooked It would have to be a serious blockage to blank the whole crank. Remember that you may not be able to remove the bearings from the crank. I had one fail like that too, they were welded on. I really feel for the loss of time, parts and machine work. Charles

very cool, enjoy... Charles

I don't know if this product is suitable for powder coating, you could probably ask Eastwood. I use Eastwood's "After blast" on parts after I strip them. It is an acid product with some other additives it works a lot like "Ospho" but with out the varnish like finish. It turns the parts blueish gray like Phosphoric acid does and they can sit for months in my shop and not develop any surface rust. You might want to look into it... FWIW no relation with either company... Charles

More beautiful work, as always... C

Very nice pictures but I was wondering how much was stick welding and how much was TIG or Mig... Charles

Yup $130 plus shipping versus $56 from Australia ... Charles

When do you expect the parts? C

When do you expect the parts? C

Ad is $30,000 if it is a very nice car he is probably not bad out of line C

Caswell has a lot of supplies for the DIY'er the yellow cad that is on many of the Z fasteners and the bright zinc that is on many of the screws and door hardware etc are reproducible with theirs kits and are actual zinc plating not paints like the Eastwood kits are. It is a cool process and the results are really good. I you want a great looking car clean fasteners is the way to go, and like most things it is much cheaper to plate them yourself. nix240z has a cool setup and has plated many things, his car will be museum quality when it is done... Charles

Jan, I just bought a new set out of Australia from "peterkm123" off ebay there were about $56 a pair the only other source I know of is Precision Rubber I believe at $140+ per pair. Charles

How's the knee? The car? Charles

I didn't understand the comment E-tek. I have some fresh epoxy primer and after 3 weeks it will still rub off with lacquer thinner. Kevin Tetz responded to me on another forum and said it was just the nature of the material. So that appears to be the case...

Cool, Didn't know that could be done... Charles

Steve, Did you plate this with your setup? Charles

I agree with Carl. The price is reasonable for a clean car with a forged turbo intercooled conversion putting down serious power, but it will take a special buyer... Charles

The bearings should all have numbers on them. Get a magnifying glass or some reading glasses and try to find the numbers on the bearings. Google them or talk to a bearing distributor to find a match many bearing houses can help with seals too, the washers I don't know... Charles

Kelly, How long has it been sitting? Has it shifted since you have started working on it again? Charles

E Radatz Motorsports 961 Shallowford Rd NE, Kennesaw, GA 30144 Phone: (770) 926-6609 Charles

Yes but not very cheap... Some one may have a used set... Charles

Eddie Radatz He's not far from you google him and you should be able to come up with some contact info. He should have one laying around. Charles

Waiting with baited breath. Pictures please... Charles

From what I can tell the biggest difference in your car would be fuel maps and spark curve due to the displacement, head work and cam. Unless you do something really different and the reality is everyones maps and curves will be a little different because all engines vary from one to another. Your maps however would be very helpful if I ever build something with a V07 I have laying around . C