Patcon

That sounds like a good choice C

you'll do fine In most ways these cars are probably simpler than most of the cars you've done. Rust is the biggest issue. The engines are very solid as long as carbs and ignition are good. Electrical is not normally very hard unless a previous owner got happy with the cutters and wire nuts. Brakes are pretty straight forward too. Have fun, we are close in age and I have kids that age too if he shows an interest feed into it. It will make some great memories. Pretty much everything you need to know is here on this forum some where, and the technical expertise is the best bar none. Charles

Welcome, are you good with a wrench? Charles

I will pull one out and send you some info Charles

Bart, Let me know if you still need me to pull the part. I think I would try cutting the race off first. You have nothing to lose from salvaging the existing spindle and Carl is right they are very hard. Charles

Originally an Arizona car so I guess that is possible. Thanks for the help Charles

Light the way... Charles

I have done some programming with the TBI ECU Patton is using. It is what my 95 Suburban I am tuning has. It will do an awful lot fuel maps, spark, idle air, control and electronic tranny etc.. The problem is there are some support groups like 3rd gen that do alot of hacking of these ecu's and reprogramming, but megasquirt is somebodies product so there is better support to help solve problems and less of a need to reinvent the wheel or rely on a forum. No slam on forums but everyone on 3rd gen seems to be doing something different and with a different ECU's so it is hard to find someone with experience for your particular problem. Also for the GM module you need a piggy back chip and a chip burner, etc or an emulator in order to work on your tuning. At least with mega squirt every one is sort of starting with the same system. I believe "six_shooter" is running a GM based EFI on his Z If I remember correctly... I have considered going this route simply because I already know a good bit about the tables and lay out. Charles

Thanks for the info that is good to know. They cleaned up pretty good and after some brake clean and the parts washer they seem to be pretty smooth. Since they are under compression I believe they will be fine. Is there a special lube for them or just axle grease? I wonder about attracting dirt into the grease. I think gritty grease is what the original problem was. Charles

Maybe, what side and how much do you need? What is the best option for shipping? Charles

With a little help from Blue anyone can surely do brakes. I agree a big thank you. Charles

I thought it was a pretty slick setup. For me I will probably dealing with a turbo setup so a stock turbo intake, new fuel rail, larger injectors and more boost. MS would be a way around the original system for tune-ability and custom fuel maps. Charles

Interesting but not cheap. It appears well thought out and well sorted but for the money I would probably go triple ITB's and megasquirt for just a little more. C

I was just trying to help you lay claim to it with out you being self serving I have Z therapy carbs, triple Webers on the shelf, 2 turbo motors and an L28e sitting around. I am probably going to put a turbo l28 in the car I am working on now. I will try to get it running with the stock system and then switch over to MS in the future for the ability to run higher boost and spark control. So your progress and how to will help find the areas that have to be addressed. I have a 95 suburban that a built a motor for and it required a custom chip so I have had to learn how to do that. After seeing what could be controlled from the ECU there are some real advantages to EFI. As well as some things I won't miss such as fuel bowl levels and old gas issues. I like both, but I am just getting to the point where I want to get into a car after several weeks of sitting and it will start, idle and drive with out a lot of fuss. None of my carb vehicles are like that. Also I have an 83 F350 work truck that I might fuel inject at some point so all of your info might help with that also. I agree that there are fewer members here that this would apply to versus other forums but they are here none the less and more will probably follow...besides this forum is just so helpful and polite... Charles

Be sure to ask the shop about any prep work you can do ahead of time to keep cost down. You may have to find a shop that does european or Japanese cars many of the muscle car shops around here weren't interested in working on my Z. Go to your local automotive paint supply store and when no other customers are around ask who they would recommend. They have to be careful to not offend any of their other customers (ie body shops) but they should be able to point you in the right direction. I would strip all the seats, carpet interior door trim and seals at a minimum. It might help to go to a self serve car wash and pressure wash the tunnel area also, fwiw. I would be curious to know what the going rate is now. 20 years ago I paid $600 to have floors put in and they did an "ok" job not great. I would think it has gone up dramatically since then. Charles

Do you have a source for the axle? C

Thanks for the clarification. The bearings pulled out with a curved pick. Stuck but not too tight. I priced them and decided to try to clean them. If they clean up and turn smooth I will reuse them. I will check the insulators like you suggest when I get suspension back under the car. On the rotisserie right now waiting to paint the under side and trim out... Charles

madkaw, I don't know if you have done this on another forum, but would you consider starting a thread documenting your MS conversion or just use this one. I don't spend time on Hybrid Z anymore and would find it interesting and possibly helpful in the future to follow your steps to converting over to EFI. I love the look and sound of triples but as I get older there are some aspects of EFI that I find really appealing... Charles

These are the fronts and the bearing appears pressed in. Is that not the case, should it come out fairly easily? Charles

You aught to read the "white paper" written by Keith Frank(s). There is a DCOE Yahoo group and it is in there reference area. The man knows his DCOE's. There is info in there that should be helpful for setting up your DCOE's and getting idle right as well as avoiding the "flat spot" Charles

Ditto

I should have clarified that, Thanks, Carl

That looks pretty good. I am epoxy priming all the parts and then shooting with a catalyzed product. I believe that will be a harder finish. Rattle can would be much easier and faster though. If I had more sense that would be the way I would have gone. I am halfway down this road now so I will see it thru. I shot some test panels yesterday flattened 25% / 35% / 50% / 60% I will probably go with 50% it flattened greatly from 50% to 60%. The 50% still give some reflection ( I can see my face in the reflections but not so glossy like the other samples). More like a semi gloss not quite satin. I need to post some pics when I get a little further. Charles

I was working on the insulators for one of my cars and cleaned them up and stripped the paint. I have two questions: How do you know when they need replacing. The rubber does not appear to be cracked or overly dry. I could respray them and install and put that money some where else. Also how do you remove the bearing from inside the insulator? The ones there now are very rough feeling. Thanks, Charles

When I mounted my 240z I used the bumper mounts which are tied to the rear frame cross member. Do you want to attached where the bumper mount to the shocks or where the shocks mount to the car? Charles