Patcon

It does have a 350 in it currently, but they appear to have the original drivetrain too. I thought it was a little expensive, but the car seemed to be in pretty good shape. You, don't know how much they modified to drop in the v-8. It seemd kind of a shame for a low number car to be converted like that. There are plenty of better candidates for hybridizing. My opinion of course, might be a great car if you could get all the original drivetrain for the right price and the chassis is a clean as it looks. Charles

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/2886628042.html

Do you have all the clips, and just need cleaner examples? If so why don't you get them plated? I don't know about sources down under but Norm at Zedsaver does some nice work...I don't know what postage would set you back. Charles

My problem is I have too many spares already. 3 240's, 5 engines, 4 tranny's, 2 diesel cranks, 2 lsd diffs, multiple dashes, etc. Plus if the tranny becomes impossible to fix I can always say "Honey , I had to put a manual in it, I couldn't fix the other tranny..."

The car I have on my rotisserie is a 70 240z with the auto tranny in it. The car is for my wife and she would prefer to maintain the auto tranny. I believe it is the original tranny so I would prefer not to replace it. Also if I go thru the tranny I have; it becomes a know item versus buying something that is supposedly good. Thanks, Charles

Thanks, I appreciate that. I had assumed the transmission was used in other cars, but didn't know which ones. Charles

Skill level is not the issue, time might be... If I can find the manual for the technical aspects ie. disassembly techniques and torques, etc. The rest is not an issue. The other side of that is there are probably very few tranny shops willing to work on a 40 year old 3 speed in my area... Thanks, Charles

I like open source, thanks Charles

not free if I don't have a zip utility to unzip it...

I downloaded a copy from Scribd and had to buy a 24 hr pass for $5 to get it. The manual is 63 pages and has all the same features discussed in the ebay link above. It would be interesting to know if the manual they are selling on ebay is a newer presentation of the information or just a copy of the factory manual sections. Charles

Pjoe, Is that a metallic gray color? I was interested in painting components separately but was concerned the flake would lay differently on each panel and look different when reassembled. I would love to know how well they match when reassembled. They look really good in the photos. Did you use basecoat/clearcoat or single stage? Thanks, Charles

I found this link on Scribd. It had the whole manual. Had to pay a nominal fee to download, but glad to have it. http://www.scribd.com/doc/67088157/240Z-Automatic-Transmission-Manual Charles

The 71 supplemental didn't have anything in it. I didn't try any of the others because I don't have Zip utility. I hadn't remembered Xenon... Thanks, Charles

I recently purchased a factory 1971 Nissan Service manual. I was surprised that there was no section on rebuilding the automatic transmission. I have one 240z that is getting redone with the factory automatic transmission. I was trying to find the info on how to rebuild the tranny. Was there a supplemental service manual or possibly another vehicle that had the same tranny and would have the info for the rebuild work. Thanks, Charles

I have a front clip that I can look at I don't know how clean it is? Charles

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?139-e-brake-emergency-park-parking-brake-cable-repair

I got to messing with this again. I rebalanced the carbs and checked advance. At 800 rpms there is 18-19 degrees of advance. I can't get it to run much below that. If I lift the rear SU piston there is no change. If I lift the front SU piston it starts to stall and will if I don't set it down quickly enough. Is this a rear fueling issue or spark.? Thoughts? Thanks, Charles

Just for info I have bought cars before without a title. there are several title companys that do this kind of work. You can find info on there websites for what they can and can not do. You have to sign a stetment that to your knowledge the car is not stolen. Provide a bill of sale and about $300. They provide a title that you can take to the DMV and get a title for your particular state. FWIW

The vaccum advance is disconnected as most people find that total advance is too much on the 280zx dizzy conversion Charles

Thanks, That gives me a direction to start in. Charles

I don't believe it is a cam timing issue. Possibly valve train but the car had Weber DGV's on it a couple of months ago and seemed to rev much more freely. I am running ATF for dashpot oil. Possibilities that come to mind were timing, not advancing fast enough. Weak spark, mixture, dash pot oil. I just wasn't sure of the best direction to start or most logical. I would expect the 280ZX dizzy to spool pretty quickly because of the full voltage coil and hotter spark. Just looking for ideas and a point in the right direction. Charles

I am working on a 240z with an engine that has very few miles on an old rebuild. I have new Z therapy carbs and have them fairly well sorted now with Scotts's help. I also have the 280ZX dizzy conversion. The engine will rev but not real snappy like I remember. Ideas? Where to start? I will have to double check my initial timing advance but believe it is in the 12-15 degree range. The centrifugal advance is wroking and the vacuum advance is disconnected. Thanks, Charles

"The door is buckled and the rear has been hit but no frame damage"???? Maybe not... $5200 seems kind of steep for a car that needs metal work and paint, but it is a low number car. No pictures though. I always figure if I see a CL add and there are no pictures the seller is not serious about selling the car. Charles

The piece can probably be made in multiple pieces if they get welded togethor properly. You are likely to find when you remove the plate there is a big hole in the frame rail underneath. That area between the plates is not galvanized or painted from the factory and rust in these areas is a problem. I might have a plate I can hook you up with if you are interested, send me a PM Charles

Sorry for the high jack support but if you are going to prime over bare metal, use epoxy primer after metal prep and degreaser. It is available in black, tan and white by most manufacturers. Bonds to almost anything and is water proof to protect the metal. Most other 2k primers are not truly water proof. FWIW Charles Now back to your regularly scheduled program...