Werup

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About Werup

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    Denmark

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    280z
  • About my Cars
    Early 240z - 1970 - stock build
    280z - 1978, rebuild with stroker engine, and coiovers and hopefully a gnose at some point

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  1. Hi guys, Im having some trouble deciding what to do with this situation. The pictures I have attached are of the inside of the A pillars LH and RH side. As you can see not much rust there Only minor surface rust, but this area is not easy to reach, so im down to two options: 1. Use light and penetrating oil as rust inhibitor with long slim hose - possible to clean the outside up if it runs. 2. Use the long slim hose with a spraypaint - not sure of how that would end up? I worry that the paint way will run on the the pretty yellow paint, which would be a shame. But ill definitly have to do something, since the car is going to drive in Denmark. What have you guys done to the A pillars inside? Sorry for the picture quality, cheap endoscope camera But on the tablet it was clear that there was no rust other then the surface corriosion on the pictures.
  2. Thanks, really like how original it looks Chas - My first thought was only to seal the edges around it with normal body sealer. Not fill it to be smooth. But maybe the painter will tell me otherwise. Can update you soon
  3. No problem grannyknot, i know, you state this in your thread, but the first I saw on here with the idea But really like the way it would help on the water problem at the hatch area. So here is what it looks like on my car, welded in to look original A little rough at the moment, but are going to the sand blaster within a week. /Werup
  4. I am about to do the same repair on my 240z, and I saw a thread along time ago about welding an extra part on the original "gutter". Link for the thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45387-what-to-do/?hl=%2Bhatch+%2Bdrain#entry411736 I am going to do it with a bit more original look, but i really like the idea that Grannyknot posted /Martin
  5. Those insulators was removed after the picture was taken. But I am going to order som parts from you anyway That is the problem, I am not sure and what that is.. /Martin
  6. Hi, This forum has so much experience, and I am in a situation where I am not sure what is the best/right thing to do. I restoring an early 1971 240z, and I just removed the rest of the suspension and the fuel tank from the car, so now it is completely stripped down. The car have had a very nice PO which did take car of the care and got it tectyl protected when it was in the states. So I have found very little rust on the car The tectyl in the arches are so stiff that it is cracking of when im using fiber scraper, so im going to remove all of that before the car goes to the painter - but the tectyl underneeth the car seems to have very good connection with the paint! Of course it is dirty from being driven. but other then that, it is good. I am going to paint the car in black when finished, so i doing a color change - that got me thinking: Would it be better to get the bottom of the car sand blasted and the metalised with zinc (not sure it spelled like that) and then painted it and resealed. Not remove all of that good tectyl and just clean the surface of the bottom. The tectyl is applied in a thin layer, and is quite hard, so it does not hide rust pockets. Try to remove all the tectyl with a metal scraper, down the the paint - this will be a not so funny job and a long one... But maybe a good way to keep the old paint and not removeing any tectyl or paint places, where the painter will struggle to repaint as as the factory. I am asking because im not a fan of removing the good stuff and then afterwords find out that I gave rust a free pass to ride with the car Hoping to get some experienced opinions, so I am getting to know the pros and cons. Thanks, Martin A little happy bonus info, got them out without to much hassle!! :: Had to work them a llittle back and forth but they came out! Have read so many horror stories about those pins!
  7. Thanks alot Jim. I definitly need the massage part for thin metal plate! And yeah you are right about them holding another 40 years, so maybe that is just the the price to pay, but I could wish that the tax'es when importing parts here could be lowered just a little bit (40% on top of total price, that means shipping price to!).. Thanks for that site, really nice! /Martin
  8. Hi, Sorry about the topics title, but I am not sure what the item, I want remove is called I am removing bits and pieces from my frame, so it can be cleaned out and painted in the spring, but I stopped at this item: I would like to call it a hatch hinge insert - but anyway it seemed sealed and thing that should be removed. Is it possible to remove with out to much damage? And if yes, any tips on removing it? Thanks, Martin * Edit: Ok, so they where that much glued to the frame, that I got frustated and asked about removing them in here, sorry about that! I took a deep breath and went back into the garage and heated them lightly and tapped them out. But rubber is no good anymore, so will need som new ones! I can use this topic to ask if vintage rubber is the only supllier that sell those seals? 125$ a bit of cash for a rubber seal /Martin
  9. I think the last Blue! But Im going to keep it as 6 cylinder for now
  10. Hi Z-guys First real post in here Im in the middle of a minor rebuild, weel now i guess it is a major. Ill start a rebuild thread later on. I've bought an US import car here in Denmark, which is a 1971 240z, with matching number L24 and E31 head. Ive been reading up on this forum, about the con and pro's for the head - all very good I thought. I must admit that when i bought the car I thought that the rough idle was due to long term parking and etc etc. But later i found out from a compression test that cylinder 5 was not doing what the other five cylinder was doing :/ Only 6,5 bar 96 psi. What i hoped was bad rings and a quick rebuild, what I found was a large crack crossing the piston in the middle So I guess I will replace more then just rings. I should say that I am focusing on the overhaul of the body at the moment, and engine wise i was not expecting to do any work at this time. I just bought a L28 - F54/P90a N/A combo - which I have plans on rebuilding the next couple of years and let the L24 just run until then. And then rebuild it when the L28 is in the car! I am going to stay with the P90a head, cause I also found that the PO did som welding (not that good) on the E31 head to save it from corrosion. I am on my way to buy a press, so i can replace those pistons when they arrive from your part of the world /Martin
  11. Zed head: Im not sure on both my levers, the straight on the left was in the car, with the gearbox when i bought (importet from the states) and on the gearbox is says 280zx with yellow paint. The new s-shape lever is one i bought on ebay, it said nothing about year in the add :/
  12. Zed Head: The longer the arm beneath the pivot point, the less you need to move the upper lever to travel the same lenght (try this with a pensil, and move the pivot point on the table). This is why a short shifter can be made either by shortening the upper arm, means that youll need to move your hand less to do the same (minor circle) or you have to increase the lever from the pivot point into the gearbox (as my case). EDIT: The lever one the left, will have a longer movement in the top, to reach the same stop at the gearbox. When i read your post im still not happy with it But it worked, so all is good
  13. Actually it is the other way around. The reason is that the longer lever under the pivot point will go deeper into the shifter body. That means a larger diameter lever will enter the hole in the shifter body at the same time the angle which the lever can be tilted before hitting will be getting smaller. I have tried to illustrate it on a drawing under, hope it makes sense, it is evening here in Denmark :classic: The red arrows show where the longer lever under the pivot point is interfering with the shifter body, where the shorter dosent have the same depth. Best Regards Martin
  14. SledZ thanks alot!! Ive just recieved a "new" shifter arm, so i can finish the conversion the PO started and get the cockpit to lock decent again. But when i popped in the lever, it started to pop out of gear, same gears as you describe Then i found this very nice thread with pics and everything, and did same, and now everything works well again :laugh: Pictures of the levers, i am not sure what kind of lever the PO installed, but it is bend a bit to the side, and close to pretty straight up.
  15. Thanks alot Bruce, i have written an email, one very happy Dane Jim A and Rob - From what I have been reading I thought i needed an A-type, at the PO installed a 5 speed from 280z, which look like this. Is it not correct that i need an A-type 4 speed trans? But im not a 100% since im quite new to this car, so let me know if im wrong here. The reason why i want this, is that assement of the car here in Denmark when getting it taxed is hard, so need it to be stock when before going back to the 5 speed :stupid: mjr45 - Sorry have a 5 speed, just need the stock 4 speed. /Martin