Patcon

Ditto on Greyhound. I have had whole bumper assemblies shipped all over the place for reasonable money. I will add this, if you were to remove the firewall from your rusty car or most of it and graft it into the new chassis as well as some other parts. Did you really move vin's or did you rebuild the shell with a lot of other parts. I may also have a roof skin too. Would have to look...

I suspect that it is the head that grows more than the manifold. If I remember right aluminum grows more with heat than steel. So it may be the head that really moves not the exhaust...

Yeah that's a little on the thick side...

Can the water valve be seen if you put a mirror in the footwell? If so she Jai could use a mirror so see if it's hooked up and does it move...

Wheee! The 280z radiator support is different from the 240z radiator support Mark, It is a very gray area when you start looking at transferring vin's. Be careful, not saying you can't do it but most DMV's frown heavily on it. That being said if it's done well I don't know how they would know. the firewall VIN would be the hardest part. Never done it but have considered it. I don't want to defraud anyone but sometimes it is easier to save a car by starting with a better shell.

I think what they did on the rocker was fill it so it lined up well with the fender. I do all my panels this way. I may rough a door out on a stand but for final work I mount them on the car, adjust them, then block them as one large panel, across the body gaps. Then I fill and block as necessary. This makes the car as straight a possible. I do however prefer to have less build...

Martzedcars If the stud is broken off flush with the head, how do you plan on welding to it? Lay the nut on the head and weld down through the center to the stud?

Mark Let us know how the discing goes. It looks really easy but that can be deceiving...

Ahh the voices...I've heard those before...

The hood looks good, nice and thin

Yes the 2 part guns are very expensive. I have looked for one for a while for Evercoat products. They have some 10:1 products that use a proprietary gun design. Haven't found one yet and can't justify $150 gun...

Looks good. Make sure the bottom side of those seams are sealed up good, they are the bigger issue

Yes the switch is connected to the bullet connector under the red plastic loom. I assume that is creating a ground path when tripped as it is only one wire. So to create a brake light you would feed power to one side of the lamp and connect the ground side to the bullet connector, when tripped it will light up, if I am correct...

I cleaned up everything, metal patches, epoxy primer, lizard skin insulator, lizard skin sound deadener, paint, might add dynomat or fatmat on top, then jute and carpet

Yes you can shrink dents in your body work using heat and then a damp rag or a spray bottle. I watched a you tube video recently where a guy used a shrinking disk to fix a dent in a piece of metal. He beat the snot out of it with a hammer, then he used the shrinking disk on a grinder which heats the metal. Then used water out of a spray bottle to cool it. In about 5 minutes the dent was gone, invisible. It was really cool! My frame man fixes stretched metal for us using a torch and damp rag. I know it can be done but haven't tried my hand at it yet. I would probably use a shrinking disk since I don't have access to a torch and the disc is relatively cheap. If you over shrink it, you can always stretch it a little with a hammer.

If you are going to use thick spacers, be sure your wheel studs are long enough and I wouldn't recommend being too aggressive with the car Glad you found the issue

Phosphoric acid creates iron phosphate. Pretty tough stuff. Scuff it up with some 180 or so and shoot over it. I would follow the fine print on the product you choose but from what I've seen there haven't been any issues. The more rust you remove the better but you really can't get it all that is why the panel changes color slightly when you treat it. I have concerns about treating some of the critical parts from nitrogen embrittlement but I don't plan to race the car and those can be mitigated if you are overly concerned. Don't use it on springs and spring steel!!!!

Ditto, Hate waiting. I use compressed air to help cool things down but I still hate the waiting

Dennis You need a couple of Great Danes to appreciate the full size piles...

That is what the skim coat of fiberglass is for...knock it down, prime it. Perfect...

That would work and be strong but it is twice the welding so twice as much heat and or time. Your welder is son or son in law? ask him what he thinks. I suspect the butt welds would be child's play for anyone who welds for a living. I actually find the welding to be the easy part it's the grinding that seems like work...

Good luck. If you find a car you're interested in feel free to post up pictures and get some feedback on condition and value

Ospho, or some of the other phosphoric acid solutions should work for that. I came back before priming and seam sealed all of the joints I could get to

Leave the brake switch. you could add a light on the dash or in one of the gauges. The switch will turn the light on if one of the braking circuits fails. its always good to know when only half of your brakes are working.

The "After Blast" dries hard if you don't wipe it down. I spray it on out of a windex bottle. Let it sit a few minutes then wipe it down, no washing. The metal turns purplish blue so I know it is phosphating any rusted areas. Then I shoot epoxy when I get ready, then body filler, more epoxy if needed, then on to high build primer and blocking, then finish paint