Patcon

If when sitting in traffic you rev the engine some, up to 2500 rpm's or so, does the problem go away for a minute? I believe you are running too much pressure on your fuel system and flooding the engine out...

I would be surprised if you got six months with the amount of air you're using right now but you might...

The color of his fuel may or may not be a problem. He is in a completely different market without all of our blends. For that matter the tanks they pump from could be rusted tinting all the gas pumped from them... Zed Head gave you good advise, take it or leave it

If your yellow is catalyzed paint then you should be able to use lacquer thinner to clean up any areas that leak out, but I don't know if that will completely do it. It does tend to stain some. Eastwood would be my choice too

When your desiccant gets saturated throw them in the oven on a cookie sheet on low for a couple of hours to dry them out

Love it. You're doing everything right from the looks of it. Happy New Year...

Drilling spot welds sucks, excuse my directness, it takes forever and you get tired maintaining pressure. Plasma cutter is much easier...

Results look good. Once you get it flowing keep it flowing. I have a pressure pot so it's a different setup...

What does your blasting setup look like?

Mark If you have access to a plasma cutter it speeds up spot welds tremendously. Just burn a round hole at all the spot welds and tap in a painters 5 way with a hammer to separate the panels

Remove the valve cover and check that everything is assembled correctly. I assume oil pressure is constant also?

That's a lot of money to spend with no assurances on functionality

I use silicone spray on squeaky panels...

Still, great progress. I need to spend some time in the shop myself...

Good progress. Are you gonna shoot another coat of primer before finish paint?

The seller will email pictures of them. I couldn't get them to attach because my internet was acting up. I believe he will ship. Contact him through the link. I agree with Jerry to be careful. It did seem like some things were missing off the top. I don't know mikunis very well and they don't appear to have just come off a car. Expensive parts could add up quickly...

92 degrees, not that hot and cars don' really feel humidity like we do. These cars sometimes don't cool well but that would be in 100+ heat. You have an ignition problem, a lean condition or insufficient cooling. You shouldn't overheat at those temperatures

Merry Christmas Be safe

How hot is it there in traffic?

I have a set of rebuilt webers sitting in a box ready to go on something, and I am a packrat and new shiny carbs would look good in my nest but I don't have the money right now either. The price isn't bad, if they had been a little cheaper I might have done it. Hopefully someone here will be interested.

Found this is on craigslist http://nwga.craigslist.org/cto/5362276653.html Do you still have the mikunis? What do you want for them? Are they on a manifold? Thanks ,Charles yes I do make me a reasonable offer and yes they are on a manifold with linkage The question would be what do you think is a reasonable offer? C $1000.00 or best offer

I don't know maybe some guys can post pics of the 240z versus the 280z lower section of the radiator support...

I am gonna add this here because it is your build thread and maybe someone else can chime in. Core support part numbers: 240z 62500-N3400 260z to Aug 74' 62500-N3615 62500-N4310 9/74'-11/74' from 12/74' 62500-N4200 all 280z 62500-N4200 There are evidently 4 different core supports on the 2 seater cars. I know the 240z supports do not have the vertical piece of metal across the top that holds the weather strip to seal to the hood. I believe that is to aide cooling. Also I believe the later cores may be taller because when I install a later radiator in my car possibly 280zx? they hang below the core support. The holes are also different in the later core supports and some of them are different sizes to allow the larger intake hoses to pass through. Some pictures might help if some people can post up different years. My 240z was repaired with a later core support so the width seems to be the same...

If you take the screws out of the knobs pay close attention. The screws are small and easily lost

You picked a hard part to drill. That is spring steel, wouldn't have been my first choice, most people mount to the sub-frame. The install looks good though