Patcon

I assume by "Mapped" you mean you are running a MAP sensor? Do you have an Idle Air Control valve? Closed loop or open loop?

I have a plastic paint booth sort of like you have with a fan and filter set up so bugs aren't normally a problem. I don't want to paint the car in pieces because I have been told the shading may not be right if I don't lay down the same amount of paint on all the panels. Since I don't paint a lot I have a better shot at painting the car assembled so the variations from panel to panel are minimized. So the car will be 90% complete when I spray the outside...

Aircraft stripper neutralizes easily with paint thinner. Sort of "pills" up as little rubber bits. I haven't every had an issue with bleed through later from it but I also don't goop it all down in the seams either

Oh, I know but your skin just tells you hot. Good ventilation is a prerequisite. I was 19 at the time, live and learn... Amazing I have lived this long...

FWIW, Don't get it on you! It gets HOT quick... splattered it across my face one time with a power drill and wire brush...

I did it the latter way. Sound deadened the interior and underside after priming, then "jambed" the car out on the rack (interior, ceiling, under the car, cowl area, door jambs, door interiors, hatch interior areas and engine bay). I am still working on finish painting the suspension. Then run all the lines under the car add suspension then put it on the wheels. Do most of the assembly then finish paint. That means less chance to mess up the fresh paint, hopefully...

Wow. I hate it when I do something like that...

The aircraft stripper eats everything. Did you try it on the bondo? It will turn it to goo. Scrape it off with a putty knife or a wire bursh on a drill. I stripped a whole Z with it. That car had gallons of bondo on it...

I painted mine on the rotisserie. Roll it to any angle you need and lean in. I also climbed in from underneath to shoot some hard to reach areas. It is difficult to get paint in many of the areas and avoid runs

Big panels like that are easy with paint stripper. don't know if you can get it but "Aircraft stripper" works really good. You would have been done in a couple of hours...

Nice and shiny, love it. What color Red is that?

I would run the 5-50. Still reasonably pourable at low temperatures but still has lots of protection when it warms up...I would have no concerns about running that here in the Southern US and our avg temperatures are much higher than yours

I am not sure that the warning switch will actually close off the bad half of the system. I do wonder why he lost both circuits. My first thought which he confirmed is that his system is not stock, but you would still think half of the system would work if only marginally...

That's a pretty heavy oil. In your part of the world I would think you would want something a whole lot lighter

Worked on rebuilding a 510 hood, 2 fenders and a splash pan. worked on getting my suspension black the right sheen...

The roof is one of those panels that can be hard to get smooth and looking good. If you apply too much pressure the metal flexes and the material doesn't sand off evenly. I have found that using a little more aggressive paper and fairly soft pressure works good. Just have to be patient and keep blocking until it's right. The lower doors skins, the flats on the hood and especially the lower part of the hatch are the same way

Looks beautiful, as always...

That is still a good price for a driver Z that needs some rust repair with 128k

I don't understand! You want the car pristine and painted correctly but you don't want to pull the engine to paint the engine bay! Then when one (jfa.series1) of the foremost experts on the factory methods tells you they painted them black on the radiator support you question that! If you want it factory, black out the lower radiator support! If you don't want it factory then don't! But don't question whether the information is good when it comes from an original owner that won 1st place last year at Zcon just because some one on Youtube did it different I'm done...

If it was already in the states the title issues could be handled through a title company provided it doesn't come back stolen. Being out of the states I don't know how you would import it if there is a title discrepancy. Maybe store it north of the border (@Blue house) until the title is made good... What kind of dollars are you looking for, give us a starting point. Do you have a title???

I suspect the bid got retracted after the seller clarified the mileage discrepancy

That might do it... Love an easy fix though! Now that you found some energy laying around some where, can I borrow some?

Cliff, I tend to agree with you, several years ago I would have said $2-3k but now a days I see basket case "junkers" bringing that and cars like yours bringing $7-9k. I would say $7k is a reasonable price in todays market, I might even try a little higher $7,800 or so and negotiate from there. The ebay car has lots of great documentation but no pictures of the rear hatch lip or under the battery tray. It has rust in the doglegs, so I would suspect rust in other areas too. Your doors are a little worse off but they are not cost prohibitive. The ebay car is at $15,300 with 2 days to go. In the answered questions he points out the mileage at 128,000... your car is a desirable color with a neat interior, a new coat of paint and some rust repair and it would easily bring mid teens IMO...heres to success

NADA Collector Guides Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $4,106 $7,925 $18,100 $31,600 TOTAL PRICE: $4,106 $7,925 $18,100 $31,600 Hemmings motor news The avg asking price is: $18,747 The highest is: $69,900 The lowest is: $5,950 Hagerty: #1 $50,500 #2 $32,500 #3 $15,800 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle. #4 $7,100 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle. Collector Car Market Guide (their numbers seem to be lagging some but the AC add is a good tip) 1972 DATSUN 240Z 6cyl 2393cc (129hp SAE) 4M #5 #4 #3 #2 #1 Coupe 1250 3775 9125 14725 24300 Add: Air conditioning 5% Deduct: Automatic transmission -15%

I don't know. I would have thought your pans would have looked like the 240z pans with the large oval stampings and the drains plugs in the stampings...