Patcon

That looks like fun!

Sometimes I can hold the backer with one hand and weld with the other. Sometimes I have a helper. The Eastwood backers are really interesting. I wonder how malleable they are?

Ok so tinkered with the brakes some more. Really frustrating!!! So the rear calipers won't go on over the rotors I have. The rotors are too large. I am pretty sure I ordered the right ones (82-83 280ZX rears) to work with the 85-86 maxima rear calipers. The ones I have a re 84-85 300ZX rears. I have had them for years so if anyone needs them let me know. They are CTEK 121.42021 drilled On the front the Power stops or Stop Tech ( I can't locate the box) have this number on the edge of the rotor. Doesn't lead any where in Google... The hat height is the wrong height. Here is a stock front disc against the new disc. There is about 0.27" difference in height. That looks like enough to make the calipers work on the front So I ordered some discs today from Rockauto. Fortunately they were on sale. I don't know how to cross reference the front disc to figure out what they actually are

The aluminum and steel drums are both available at MSA. The aluminum ones aren't very cheap though about $130 each versus $43 for the steel ones

Yes it can be. You can always use a piece of copper behind the weld seam to prevent blowing through. I have a couple of pieces of copper tubing hammered flat on one end into different shapes. The copper won't stick to the weld puddle

Lots of pics. AC car. Floors and battery look good. Looks like nice a nice foundation. Spray it and go...

That is a pretty piece!

I am assuming by the user name, it make be a Ferrari rebody "Velo Rossa"

Done. Good call Chas. Mike or another Mod will have to approve it to make it active I believe

You're bad!! I love those thick vented rotors though

That's good! Were the ears milled like in post #215? Is that the same caliper? Mine are S12+8's too. I will have to look for the other stampings and relief milling you have too

Jim is the original owner of that car. It is immaculate and has the trophy to prove it! It now has new shiny bumpers in lieu of the painted ones.

Those cowl drain lines can crack with age. Also the area around the fresh air intake on the passenger side is prone to rust. Sometimes all the way through. Take the floor mats out if you can so you can tell if water is coming into the car from the cowl area. Don't get too much water into the cowl before you are sure it is draining the direction you want it to

what did you do about the core charge?

Thanks for the details! Is your acetyl rig little bottles or full size bottles? I would have to lease full sized bottles but I wasn't sure how long little bottles would last

The little stud with the hole in the end? I don't know, I didn't notice it while doing the chain, but I noticed it in the picture and wondered what it is

@240260280 Thanks for the link. What was the application? I couldn't find it on the page

You might want to try one of the rust dissolver products from Eastwood or maybe even CLR to clean the hinge

It is not surprising how expensive Datsun parts are in Europe. Salvage yards are common here in the states and I even know of yards that have cars from the 40's and 50's. Europe has gone out of it's way to discourage this and the shortage of used parts has made the prices high. If you ever need something shoot me a PM. I might be able to help but can't do anything about the import taxes. I wonder how many of the salvage cars that are sold here in the states are sent to Europe with "washed" titles?

No I haven't. What did you buy?

So you heated the bolt cherry red or the surrounding metal? I would have thought when the bolts were that red they would be too soft to turn out. Did you let the dull down any first or just turned them out red? Did you use any oil on them while hot, I assume no? I need to get an Oxy/Acet bottle setup...bottle envy.

Well we got Cody's car running a few weekends ago. We got the timing cover off and redid all those seals and reset the plunger. It has fixed the water consumption issue. We also found he was losing the rear brake circuit due to leaks. So we rebuilt all of the rear brakes. New shoes, wheel cylinders and hardware. I had Cody do most of it. He did good with it! We also put some new tires on it to prevent scrubbing in the wheel wells. It's a lot better but the right side that got hit still scrubs a little bit. He is happy to have his car back. A while back I worked on the grill and headlight buckets. I had Cody buff all of them. You have to buff them on a lower speed if possible. They are easily damaged if the wheel takes them away from you. Then I taped them all up so I could spray the black. I used the Eastwood satin black 2K. It looks good. We'll see how it holds up. It had mixed reviews, but so far I have gotten good results with it. I should have taken some pictures of them all taped up. I always get going and forget to do it. Here are some finished pictures: I bought some 1/4" pin striping tape which helped a lot on taping off the fine lines This last one peeled a little when the tape was removed. I think it did that because we didn't get all the buffing compound off before spraying them. Next on the list are some suspension repairs. the front struts seem shot, sway bar links are shot and the sway bar bushings will get redone too

I still need to check on the front calipers and the front rotors In the mean time I have been trying to get the rest of the suspension black so I can put it back down on some wheels I painted the last control arm today and polished some spindle pins. I have found many times they will polish up nicely. I use lots of anti seize on reassembly

I have an early metal fan. I was going to offer it here first before heading to Ebay. $125 plus shipping but I'm open to offers...