Patcon

I think anything in the $2-300 range is good

Are you using the wool or the small electric?

Thanks for that reply. Very helpful

If one of the two circuits fails

Congrats on getting it running

I would run the new line in the tunnel and ziptie it to the others lines until you pull the tranny

It would be nice to pull the relevant wire data out of this thread and post it as a tech article in the resources section

I just ordered a 38mm crow foot like that. That's a good idea on setting 90d's

Excellent! We'll try that Any recommendations on how to torque the shaft nuts? Nissan had a special adapter tool

So here is where we're at This a panoramic photo which is why it has some distortion My concern right now is on the front side (left) of the main plate. the first two gears don't line up very well. All the rest of them line up pretty good. Now I haven't torqued anything down yet I thought we might have had the countershaft gear on backwards but I've double checked my pictures and I think it's right side out. Also the snap ring on the inside of the bell housing plays a part too

I think if I have a brake line leak, I'm replacing the whole thing unless there is obvious external damage

Clear zinc??

It was white in the beginning I believe...

It's just as well your front supports extend upward. The balance point for the car is on that side of the bolt holes if I remember correctly

I think I would lean towards the new carbs. They look to have had some more refinement. The domes will have zero wear which rebuilt won't. Choke mechanism looks to have been updated. Warranty would be a good question

Beautiful car!!

Also this repair would be easier if you remove the doubler plate so you are not fighting the boxed section. You could remove the whole thing or just cut it far enough back to be past the damage. Then remove that portion. Then you can dolly both pieces inside and out. Weld back in with a butt seam and smooth them out. Also like Namerow suggested you could hold the car down closer to the front to reduce the stress on the frame rail. You could go on Ebay and order some frame clamps. I have an assortment that I use with come-alongs or chain binders for lighter damage work

Good job

I suspect Dutchzcar is right. He sprayed it outside in the sun and the paint couldn't lay out. I agree, take it to a shop that can color match it. Spray it early in the day and in the shade. Be sure and degrease it really good

Timing might determine smoothness but Zed is right. You're very likely getting too much air. The place to start it to remove the linkage from the pedal to see if the blades can close some more

Does your work area have a concrete floor? If so you could bolt the jig to the floor and use a hydraulic bottle jack under the lever. Then hammer and dolly

Let us know what you get

Keep in mind that all of the repair work in this area needs to be done on the jig, not on the rotisserie. The lever idea might work really well if the radiator support was out of the way. Put some force on the lever and then dolly the crumpled area behind the radiator support. Does anyone know if the radiator support is plumb in the car or square (90d) to the frame rail?

The interior appears to have custom door panels and stitched tunnel vinyl, but they removed all the heater controls?? Really? The car has some nice mods Zstory exhaust, triples - says Mikuni, 5 spd etc

Also even some of the new mechanical fuel pumps can be bad right out of the box