Patcon

One step at a time. Get the #1 piston all the way up and timing marks on 0. Camshaft lobes on #1 up. Then take a picture of the camshaft spindle with the dizzy removed

I think it's always a good idea to preoil an engine before firing. All the way up to the cam

When the #1 piston, closest to the radiator, is at TDC the #1 cam shaft lobes will both be pointing upwards. Both valves will be closed. Then take a picture of the drive spindle Don't rotate the engine again until the mechanical parts are all properly installed. Also take the #1 sparkplug out and make sure the piston is all the way at the top when the timing mark lines up at 0 degrees (TDC)

A word of caution, most of us here are old and tired. We have dealt with these issues for years. We have asked you do certain things. If you will do those things we ask, in order and show the results, we will get this fixed. If that doesn't happen the help will dry up!

Nice to see MikeW and that beautiful car!

The number 6 wire can be plugged onto the cap in any location. You need to start by getting the motor to TDC on the compression stroke

Is the needle valve too short?

So the reverse shifter rod has a lot more rod exposed on the end. That seems odd. Maybe that part is reversed. The parts fiche shows all the shifter rod ends being the same

Aren't the slots on the ends supposed to all line up? It looks like its in reverse in that picture

This should be in one of the other threads

Denser gas might have less evaporation therefore more desirable from an EPA perspective. Maybe the gas is less pure, uses a heavier portion of the barrel???

I lack expertise in this area. Maybe Chas will chime in

Your results look very good!

Try to not start a new thread if you already have one going on a similar or relevant topic. It junks the forum up and keeps all the information for solving the problem in one thread

Very cool! Might be a good idea to make a technical section for printer files and other pdf patterns and lists

Also verify compression stroke

I believe the older records have probably been discarded. I dont believe SC has any records over 30 years

A little story... I had a 95 suburban that went in for an oil change. Well they forgot to refill the oil but I really couldn't prove it. It had a rod nock after that. A local racer told me to run 20w-50 in it. Quiet as a mouse. We ran it that way for a long time

I didn't see a source for one in the states

Shawn, Let's slow down a little bit... You have one of the best people on the forum to walk you through this and he can teach you the electrical but you have to do your part. People on the forum are trying to help you repair your car from hundreds or thousands of miles away. When we ask questions you need to answer each one in order. You also need to read the FSM's some. You won't understand it all but it will make it easier to help you fix things the more familiar you are with the manual. If you can do those things the people on the forum will help you figure it out. Ive seen it happen 100's of time. Steve is giving great advise and there is no reason for any of else to give advice and confuse the issue. Just be patient

May never know. Maybe it got serviced at some point and the recessed plug got destroyed? Maybe the factory used the wrong plug pr ran out of innies...

where will the next gen system get fresh cabin air?

Nissan still sells most of the rubber bushings with a few exceptions that are NLA

Yes, I agree. Deal with a smaller rebuilder. Ask for your original back, no exchange

If you show oil pressure. .. I would experiment with heavier oil 15w40 or 20w50 If the sound gets better it's a bearing issue. If it goes away, run the heavier oil until it breaks or you're ready for a rebuild