Patcon

I would leave the thread as it is and not start a new thread. That way the final solution is with the initial symptoms

Some dealers added undercoater. But from the factory everything was supposed to be body color

I would like to go and have been planning towards it but my employee (and my friend) gets married on the 8/21. I also just made a trip to Texas and can't do a longer trip than that until I heal up some more. I wanted to meet some West coast members too!

So we have most of the tranny reassembled. We are working on the cases. I have two O rings for the shifter. One is easy to replace The one on the OD there. But I suspect there is one internally as well. Should I drive out the rear cap that is staked? Also is there any particular way to orient the new Omega bushing? It has a hole but I didn't know if there was a specific orientation because the existing one didn't have a hole @EuroDat

I would try to clean up the threads first. Maybe get a metric thread file. If I could get it to torque I would probably run it but I dont beat on my cars. Zed is correct on the common failure point. My point being if you thrash on your car there are other concerns than the threads. Although I believe most of these failures are in high HP cars

Depends on how hard to plan to drive the car. 240 stub axles are not known for their strength anyway... I don't really thrash my cars anymore. So I might try to doctor that one and run it.

CARB approval would be your biggest challenge

$4,000!!! That's a huge bargain! good for you!

As a curiosity about how much does a project like that cost?

Very similar to the BMW Z3 coupes. The M coupes are still very popular race cars

Yes, I believe tuning would be a completely separate topic

I like that I would be interested in that. I believe that is an individual that was just dreaming about that as an option

@Zup

There is a product called "Seal-All" I believe. I once used it to seal up pinholes in an F350 fuel tank. Very fuel resistant. It might help to affix extra weight. Its like a cross between model car glue and clear caulk Edit for correct product name

Excellent!

2 Your earlier pictures are irrelevant at this point. Do it exactly the way I asked and make a picture. Make a picture of the cam, piston and timing if possible too.

Mine works the same way. Power from battery lug to start connection on the solenoid

Didn't motorman7 have an Ebay source?

A screw drive in the spark plug hole will work fine. Don't catch it between the piston and the head. And be gentle around the spark plug hole threads. The piston should be very close to the top when the timing is at 0. You can roll the breaker bar back and forth and feel the piston get right to the top. Thats TDC Camshaft ears pointed up, thats compression stroke

What about trimming the pin on the float valve? A little should go a long way

You need to remove the spark plug to check if the piston is all the way up

I burned mine when I turned 21...

Correct. Be sure and remove the #1 spark plug and verify the piston is all the way up. Dont get sidetracked, just give us the feedback we're asking for

Yes, but they are irrelevant at this time!

The oil pump is not that hard to do, a little messy but not difficult. Dont get distracted Get TDC and make a picture