Namerow

Was that lurking under all the Canadian Tire undercoating that the PO sprayed all over the engine compartment?

Thanks, Mark. This might prove to be my only option for the time being. I've now verified that the 72 MC casting is quite different from the 70-71 design, so -- even though the bore size stayed at 7/8" -- the 70-71 internals do not look like they'll line up with the internal orifices. Also, not only are the hard line connections reversed from F-R to R-F, the spacing of the two lines is about 1/2" different, too. Unfortunately, in the 12-hour period since my original posting, the Rock Auto listing for the Cardone 71 unit has gone from 'available' to 'out of stock'. I'll upload a picture of the pistons and seals from my 70 MC soon, along with a picture of the deals that came in my rebuild kit. The seals for the 70 MC are much 'wider'. Thanks, Chris. I'll give him a try. Thank you, Dennis. I knew that there were MC service specialists out there and that sleeving could be a possibility. With your recommendation in place, I'll check these folks out. Depending on cost, this might be a good option. I'm concerned that there aren't enough 70-71 MC cores floating around out there to provide the rebuild businesses with a basis for re-stocking the suppliers' shelves. Maybe no seals available either.

Today, I started on what I hoped would be the straightforward job of rebuilding the brake master cylinder for my 70 Z. Disassemble, clean, install new seals and hardware, and reassemble. Job done. What could go wrong? Unfortunately, I only got to Step 2. After cleaning things out, I found a little divot in the floor of the cylinder bore, located about 1/2" aft of the rear stopper bolt. Hard to say what cause it. The car has been sitting for many years so I guess it corrosion damage. It's about 1/8" in diameter and deep enough to catch my fingernail on. The rest of the bore is in great shape. When I look at the cross-sectional view of the Brake MC in the 71 FSM, I see that this divot sits pretty much mid-way between the front and rear seals of the rear piston. Knowing that, it doesn't seem like the seals stand a chance of being nicked by it. Nor do the rear piston and seals that came out of the cylinder look like they've been hurt by it. So - Question 1: Can I get away with just leaving it as-is? If the answer is that it's going to be ok to ignore it, then I've still got a minor problem in that that the rebuild kit that I bought a number of years ago is not suitable for the 70 - 71 brake MC -- different seal types (even though the bore is the same). That leads to... Question2: Anybody know where I can get a rebuild kit for the 70-71 MC? If the answer to Question 1 is 'MC must be replaced', then I've got a much bigger problem. The 72 MC, while an improved design, has the front and rear reservoirs and lines flipped around -- which means that my hard lines won't fit. Plus, a 72 MC would dilute the 70-ness of the car's engine compartment (a small but touchy consideration). MSA lists the early-design Brake MC as NLA. The typical parts suppliers also show 'NLA'. Then there's Rock Auto... Rock Auto shows NLA for 70, but lists two units for 71. One is from Cardone, the other from Centric. When I look at their 72 listings, there are about 6 choices, including Cardone and Centric. The 71 and 72 Centric units have the same PN, so that one's undoubtedly the 72 design. The 71 and 72 listings for the Cardone units, however, show different PN's. In addition (although this may mean nothing), the pop-up picture of the 71 Cardone unit shows the 70-71 design, with the 'F' line/reservoir at the front and the 'R' reservoir/line at the rear. Question 3: Does anyone have any experience with the Cardone unit listed under '1971' from Rock Auto? Could it possibly be the real deal? (i.e. the 70-71 design). If these 70-71 brake MC's truly are NLA from anywhere, what do members recommend as a remedy. Am I really going to have to fit new hard lines? or... Question 4: If I am forced to fit a later-style 72 MC, does anyone know if I can install the internals from my 70 MC into a 72 casting , thereby keeping the reservoirs/lines in the correct, 70-71 orientation? Both castings have a 7/8" bore and -- other the placement of the stamped 'F' and 'R' markings -- I think they may be identical. Intuition suggests that the factory would have made efforts to keep the same casting when they upgraded the design, limiting the changes to the internals (and the hard lines).

Sorry. Double post.

'Forward of the firewall = yellow zinc'... What about the coil mounting bracket? The three that I have are all clear zinc.

Recent chatter among CZCC members suggests (altho doesn't prove) that attempts to list and sell a large lot Z parts -- new or used -- on a piecemeal basis may prove to be a less-than-satisfying experience for the seller. There are a lot of Z-parts vendors out there. Most have well-established reputations and relatively-easy-to-work with online ordering facilities and clear/reliable shipping procedures. I suspect that a lot of Z owners with small need-to-buy lists would prefer to pay full pop for new parts from a known vendor over the uncertainties of dealing with a private buyer. Nevertheless, I encourage you to give it a try. Just be prepared for only 20 - 30% of the parts to sell within a week, after which you'll experience dwindling interest in the remainder. A knowledgeable member like JeffG78 can give you an idea on typical asking prices for things like engines, heads, transmissions, differentials, and the like. Used small stuff like interior parts may never sell (unless it's a rarity). New small stuff might sell, but you'll probably need to undercut the price of a vendor like Motorsport Auto by at least 30% to attract much attention. A guaranteed seller with a worthwhile price would be a used or NOS dash with no cracks or chips. Probably only of interest to a ~ local buyer who could pick it up in person, though (too much risk of cracks developing during shipping). A working Z mechanical clock is also a collector's item ... but otherwise basically worthless.

I've finally managed to get my computer working properly again after its forced upgrade to Windows 10, so I'll see what I can do to post the package to the CZCC site. It was fortunate that all but one of the gaskets (and there are many) were of a size that would fit on the glass of my scanner.

When I worked for an engineering company that was engaged as prime contractor in turnkey design-and-supply projects for overseas clients, we would use a banking vehicle known as an irrevocable letter of credit, 'ILC' to manage client payments. An ILC assures both buyer and seller that: a) the buyer's money is definitely in place with the banker and can't move out of the bank's control (in either direction) until certain conditions are met, and; b. the buyer's money can't move from banker to seller until certain paperwork certifying delivery of the item-for-sale to a shipper/expediter in the seller's country has been produced to the satisfaction of the banker or its agent. There is, of course, a fee exacted by the bank for this service. The escrow service referred to by Zed Head probably works in exactly the same way, but using a commercial escrow agent rather than a bank as the middleman. A large shipper might offer exactly such a service. Why not talk to a local commercial banking specialist? (prob. available in Barrie, definitely available in Vaughan, Concord or Newmarket).

I think that Blue's input would be valuable to both you and Buyer #2. One of the members here ('George' from NB?) has Blue's telno in NS, I believe. If not, go the the Atlantic Z-Car club's website and ask there. Just remember that, other than the sea shipment part, there's really no difference (from your perspective) between selling to a buyer in the USA vs. selling to a buyer in Europe. Your obligations to a buyer (foreign or domestic) re shipment end at your driveway. The shipment, whether by truck or by truck/ship is the buyer's problem. Same goes for the paperwork, shipping insurance, brokerage fees, inspections, duties, and taxes that are imposed at the dock and at the border. I agree with the others that you need your terms met by Buyer #1 and you are perfectly entitled to move on to Buyer #2 if they aren't met within a reasonable period of time. 'Reasonable period of time' is subjective, but I think that 2 business days would be appropriate here, given that you risk losing Buyer #2 if you give Buyer #1 too much time to stall. I'm not an eBay expert, but don't see how they can interfere with your rights as the owner of a piece of property that you've offered for sale with stated conditions. My two cents.

OK. And the moustache bar is installed correctly, too (oriented so that the mounting 'eyes' sit on the trailing side of the bar)... so that seems to confirm that incorrect orientation of the rubber isolator block is the culprit.

I have in my notes a caution that it's possible to accidentally install the front transverse crossmember backwards (I'm talking about the big, stamped-metal piece that bolts to the underside of the vehicle and provides the mounting point for the rubber isolator block). If you do this, it shifts the position of the mounting holes for the rubber isolator block. Perhaps that's what you've done. My notes apply to the crossmember for a Series 1 and they say that a flipped front crossmember will shift the fore/aft location of the isolator block by 3/4". The crossmember design changed for the later cars, but I wouldn't be surprised if that asymmetry is still there.

I have a friend who used to work on the line at a parts rebuild shop (alternators, water pumps, etc). Mind-numbing work. He had some interesting stories!

This should be an entertaining thread. I envy your two-car garage and workspace. Nevertheless, isn't it amazing how shelf space fills up so quickly? I've adopted the strategy of hanging larger parts from the overhead beams in my workshop. Even with that, shelf space always seems to be at a premium. Is the blue Z in the driveway a runner or is it a parts donor? BTW, nice job on the paint-spray enclosure.

Congrats on the sale, Chris. Suggest you ask that the buyer include in the bill-of-sale the words, "conditional upon transfer of funds from buyer to seller's bank account (___ insert name/location of bank & acct no.) in an amount equal to the full, agreed-to price, as noted in this bill of sale, by not later than __ (insert drop-dead date for completed transaction)." Other items: Be sure that the bill-of-sale properly notes the name and address of both you ('seller') and the other guy ('buyer'). Condition of the vehicle should be described as, 'used condition, as-is' Vehicle description should include mftr, model, MY, VIN, exterior color, and odometer reading List major spare parts (if any) to be included in the vehicle sale There's probably a sample b-o-s available on-line (somewhere) for this type of private, distance transaction. The b-o-s is a negotiable item, so don't feel like you have to accept whatever the buyer puts under your nose.

When you have the heater box and blower housing out of the car, you may want to replace all of the foam gaskets that are used throughout the housings and ducts. I made tracings for all of these when I re-built the system for my '70 a couple of winters ago and then scanned them into .pdf docs (made it easy to print new ones if/when I made a mistake cutting out the template to be laid on top of the foam sheet). Once I get my home computer working again (thanks, Windows 10), I'll email these to you.

Before Chris bought it from me, the car had sat (stationary) in three different driveways across Ontario: Burlington (3 yrs), Cobourg (3 yrs) and Oshawa (unknown, but probably at least another 3 yrs). Not sure when the mice came on board .

Didn't someone else (not Red Green) use a rented portable cement mixer as a tank tumbler?

Looking at the latest photos posted here (which are quite hi-res), you can see the full weld line. As Chris notes, it's most obvious along the transmission tunnel. It runs to just aft of the aforementioned later-style floor brace, then across to the sill (notice that the floor kick-up behind the floor brace features the Series 1 tie-down tabs for the jack and tools). Going forward, it looks like the join line between the inserted floor and the native structure runs along the bottom of the toeboard. Looks like a pretty sanitary job, actually. I wonder if #60 and #72 were both Alberta cars, or whether they found each other here in Ontario? I would suppose that #60 may have been the victim of crash damage or a fire. Floors this good wouldn't have come out of a rust-bucket.

Well, it appears that the photo was actually taken in Japan and these are cars that are about to be loaded onto the ship rather than having been parked after off-loading. Judging from the six cranes, it looks like the vehicles may have been hoisted onboard rather than driven.

I've never seen this photo before. Port of Vancouver? Yellow, white, and orange seem to be the dominant colours, although it's hard to tell how many other Z's might be parked outside of the frame. Is that actually a pair orange Z's with white interiors parked nose-to-tail in the centre of the frame?

More on the topic of black vs. grey... Here's a different Z that was recently up for sale. In this case, the license plate light housing appears in basic-black, unpainted condition. To my eye, it just doesn't look right.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/67-led-bulb-15-led-forward-firing-cluster-ba15s-retrofit-car/169/#/tab/Overview Note that this vendor's site provides a search-by-vehicle / search-by-application function that returns a faulty result for the license light application (it recommends an 1156 bulb/socket -- that won't match an 89 socket/or bulb).

Answering my own question, I've found that there is an LED bulb that's a direct replacement for the #89 incandescent versions. 'Tower' type, with 210-degree illumination spread, medium-low lumens output. Correct socket size & pins, matching 'bulb' diameter. That's probably the way to go. Regarding colour treatment for the black-plastic housing cover (i.e. should it be left as plain black plastic or painted to match the rear finisher panels?), I'm still perplexed by photo of this apparently-unmolested '70... Looks grey to me.

Now just shy of US$16K with 7 days of bidding still to go. Looks very positive. Given your documented and quality work on the structure, together with a nice paint job and a sanitary, OE interior, I think this should close in the $25K - $30K range. GLWTS.

Great photos, CanTechZ. Couldn't have asked for a better real-world illustration of the (good) possibility that those metal inserts have nothing to do with heat protection and, in fact, create the opposite effect. Auto manufacturers never spend money on parts that don't have a purpose. These insert plates look like they were designed to be installed only in particular situations. Otherwise, the housing looks perfectly happy (very happy, in fact) to have them left off. My theory is that the plates are shades and were only installed for markets where there was some government-enforced limit on the amount of illumination that could be used on the rear of a vehicle above and beyond the left and right 'running lights' (brake and turn signal lights don't count, because they're occasional and short-duration). It will be interesting to see if anyone from Europe (or Japan) reports that their lamp housing does not have these insert plates. At this point, I have one good housing assembly and I don't want to have it warp. I'm thinking about ditching the insert plates and maybe reducing the wattage of the bulbs, too (add something to the circuit to create a voltage drop?). Conversion to LED's would be another way to get rid of the excess-heat issue, but it looks like it could turn into a 'project' (unless, of course, there's an available LED with the right combination of beam pattern, lumens, and bayonet fitting size).