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sweatybetty

sweatys rebuild

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hello all! first off, i would like to thank all of you who post here, as there is a lot of information to learn from.

i bought my 72 z from a young guy about a month ago. he had it sitting on a trailer with a for sale sign asking $850 obo. i offered $750 if he would deliver it and he jumped on that!

it seems he bought the car in 04 from some tweaker that loved to spray paint things black, which may have helped slow some of the rusting down. any how, the p.o. is a line-man and travels around America working and never found time to do much with the car and finally decided to sell. it has been sitting in a dry barn since 04.

i bought a battery, starter, oil psi gauge, temp gauge and some carb kits and the engine runs very well with good oil pressure. one worry gone!

anyhow here are some pics of what i bought and where i am now. i will try to keep this post up dated as thing go forward

thanks all   sb

 

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triple webers 40dcoe

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original dash no cracks at all!

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passenger side floor pan before

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and after

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drivers side  i replace the floor support on both sides with 16 gauge steel that runs from front to rear

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tweaker speaker holes. the cowl drains are right above these holes. no wonder the floor pans were rusted.

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tweaker paint job. just in case you dont know its a 240z! i found a bit more rust under the battery tray, so i decided to strip the car and send it off to the sandblaster. he will do the engine bay, all the door posts and window frames for $200. all in a few hours. that will happen this coming week

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http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/sweatybetty1/100_1202_zpslclmuerf.jpg

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Nice find & great job on the floors!  Looking forward to your progress.  I have that job coming up on a 71z.

 

Love those adjustable jack stands & the 2 RC planes...

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You did good. The carbs and dash are worth 3 times what you paid for the car. Be careful if you work under the car that it can't roll. That would be bad. Blasting may reveal some more rots areas but at least you will have found it all. Looks good

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You did good. The carbs and dash are worth 3 times what you paid for the car. Be careful if you work under the car that it can't roll. That would be bad. Blasting may reveal some more rots areas but at least you will have found it all. Looks good

Yep, I would be a little leery of those blocks myself.  I do love a new build though, keep the pics coming!

Edited by gwri8

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nice! while the body is off at the blaster you can start cleaning up the engine and get those triples restored.

the sheet metal on these cars is pretty thin, so your blaster needs to use care to avoid making a mess of it...

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car went to the blaster yesterday.when i originally talked to him, he said his rate was $140/hour. holy $%&^$$$! so when i dropped the car off i told him to stop at 2 hours. he did everything but the bottom and the roof for $245. he could have done the roof but didnt want to damage it since it is a large, flat panel. what a difference! this guy is my new best buddy!

 

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and the ugly spot, under the battery.

 

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i did forget to get a gallon of primer, so im a little worried about flash-rust, but i think it will be ok until monday.

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SweatyBetty

That's not a bad rate for blasting and it is so nice to work on the car once you know what you have. The area under the battery could be worse. I had to repair that area on one car but had to make the compound corners. It looks like most of your repairs can be made from flat stock. "After Blast" from Eastwood will prevent flash rust so you can wait to paint until after you are done making repairs

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been a busy week getting this pig ready for epoxy-sealer. i left the heat in my shop on set a 62* and that stopped any possibility of rust. cant wait for the power bill :unsure: epoxy went on this morning. what a difference :)

 

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a little progress this past week. we had a cold front move in, so its a bit hard to get motivated when i can only get the shop up to about 55* :D

 

battery tray area fixed and sealed

 

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seam sealer applied

 

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epoxy sealed

 

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hello all! things have slowed a bit, but i have gotten quite a bit done. ordered and installed the lower quarters and the center section above the tail lights. i bought these parts from tabco, and they did need trimming for a good fit. all in all, they fit ok. im just about done with the body work and should have another coat of epoxy and then primer by next weekend.

thanks all    sb

 

rear hatch piece. this was a pita to get fit correctly

 

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lower quarter before

 

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and after

 

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and all smoothed out

 

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Edited by sweatybetty
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well it has been a while since i posted anything, but i have gotten quite a bit done. the body and doors are ready for paint. i hope to have that done in the next couple of weeks before the weather warms up and the bugs come out

 

all bodywork done, and black epoxy applied before primer and blocking

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primer over black epoxy

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block sanding. the darker area is guide-cote by 3M. it leaves a dark spot in any low spot while sanding. those few spots get filled with glazing putty and re-sanded

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new battery tray all welded up

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cowl area rubber sealed. there wasnt any rust here but this stuff will seal against any leaks

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Edited by sweatybetty
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i would be concerned that a thick coating could hide rust or trapped water - if for example there's a pinhole or edge gap and water gets under it, or the paint it's applied over lifts/fails and water is able to get under it at the perimeter, allowing it to wick water in - then this area would never dry out, making the rust worse. kind of like the issue folks have with undercoating. the material itself is quite durable and shouldn't pose any issues of leaking, it's really just the edge where the "rubber meets the rust" that i would be careful, especially in a zone that is hidden under the cowl.

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headlight surrounds (fiberglass) repaired and epoxied. they both had several cracks and the lh side mounting holes were broken.

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On 2/28/2016 at 9:09 AM, rossiz said:

i would be concerned that a thick coating could hide rust or trapped water - if for example there's a pinhole or edge gap and water gets under it, or the paint it's applied over lifts/fails and water is able to get under it at the perimeter, allowing it to wick water in - then this area would never dry out, making the rust worse. kind of like the issue folks have with undercoating. the material itself is quite durable and shouldn't pose any issues of leaking, it's really just the edge where the "rubber meets the rust" that i would be careful, especially in a zone that is hidden under the cowl.

im not concerned with that happening in my lifetime anyways. the sandblaster did a great job on the cowl. it was free of paint and rust, leaving a fairly rough surface, perfect for this stuff to adhere to. i can pretty much guarantee it will never fail or rust. we use this stuff at work for sealing metal roof penetrations and have yet to see it fail when properly applied.

Edited by sweatybetty
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Great work Sweaty!  Thank you for all the details and the pictures.  It is builds like these that keep us all motivated on our own projects.

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the weather here is still holding out on the cold, wet side. perfect for painting. i have only painted 1 other car before, and that was with single stage paint. this is a base-clear, so it is a kind of practice session, so i decided to do the engine bay first. the base went on a bit dry, so there is some orange peel. over-all i am pleased. the body comes next week-end.

base coat before clear

after clear (sorry for the blurry pic)

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Very nice! Did you stand in the engine bay to get all the nooks and crannies or just lean in? So many hidden areas I am concerned on getting good coverage when I do mine.

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I painted mine on the rotisserie. Roll it to any angle you need and lean in. I also climbed in from underneath to shoot some hard to reach areas. It is difficult to get paint in many of the areas and avoid runs

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