Zed Head

What happens if you just raise the RPM while sitting in neutral? Can you get the needle to go up and down without a load? It kind of looks like what you might expect if the radiator was not actually removing much heat. Is your heater core intact and connected or has somebody "bypassed" it? The bypass allows coolant to pass through the block and back to the pump without passing through the radiator. Effectively reduces pump capacity. Another thought is that the water pump impeller blades are shot and not moving much coolant.

I get the impression from the various comments around the internet that people feel that there are more buyers than cars out there, therefore if a car is priced appropriately it will always sell. In other words there is a group of many buyers out there looking to buy. Maybe that's not the case and the number of buyers/collectors is actually limited. I also had the impression that the car probably had more value as a collector car than an enthusiast's car, like you're implying above. If I was a collector I would cringe at the driving video, each rev to 6000 RPM was subtracting value. But as an enthusiast it was fun to watch.

The reason to verify is so that you can fix it. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106792-slop-in-the-distributor-drive/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115353-l28et-issues-oil-pump-shaft-gear-spun/

Maybe he had a bit too much fun in the driving video. I think on a one week auction your timing has to be pretty good. August is not a great time for selling either, I think. The people with the extra money are often spending it on vacation. Spring is when you want to sell. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-86/

I recall reading about that but the gear also moved up the shaft. A comparison of shafts or a measurement should show something. Without that it's just a guess.

Even though the fuel pump motor is bathed in gasoline it can still overheat and stop working. People have reported similar in the past. No ideas on the two things happening on the same trip. The starter motor draws a lot more amps than the fuel pump. Once the solenoid is engaged it has its own dedicated big wire circuit.

It's normal. Make sure that you really want the part and that there are very good odds that it will work though. The same problems exist on returning a product.

The diagram suggests that the short that blows your flasher fuse would be in the Hazard switch, or the flasher unit itself, or the wires between the fuse and the flasher unit. The flasher unit provides resistance to stop a short to ground after it from blowing the fuse, I think. Edit - but it would have to be a constant short circuit that doesn't pull enough to blow the fuse by itself. Using the signal switch pushes it over the edge. Since the signal switch completes the circuit to ground. The voltage is always in the wires.

What about the flasher fuse? That's the one that is blowing, right?

The dot is only for aiming. The measured area might be much broader. The farther the device is from the area, the broader the area is that is measured. Probably best to hold the pyrometer straight and scan over the fuses if you want to find a hot one. And the closer the better for a small area. There is a bunch out there about all of the various details, some it way in to the weeds. Here's one reference. They're not really designed for small area measurements. I have one that has a socket for a thermocouple. That's what you'd really want for measuring fuses and other small areas. https://www.williamsonir.com/blog/3-tips-proper-pyrometer-maintenance/ " For single-wavelength sensors, alignment is critical as the pyrometer takes an average temperature of whatever it sees in its field of view. Therefore a single-wavelength pyrometer needs a full field of view of the target to make an accurate measurement, so as not to average in other non-target temperatures. "

The technical parts of the thread were interesting. Thanks to all that contributed. It's still an interesting topic. I'd like to see the instructions for building the steering wheel, from the factory. That would be cool. You can see that they covered up a pretty ugly piece of steel. The welds aren't even very good.

To the guy on the BATS discussion. Never mind.

Not me. You're projecting that other guys comments on to me. I don't need help.

Consider adding a load test to your repertoire. A test light that pulls a few amps. Connections can open when they heat up from the current.

Actually, you didn't really say much in that post. A few names to research if a person wanted to, quotes of someone else's posts. Kind of thin. No details, just references to broad processes. Anyway, manufacturing of parts like this is an interesting topic, when you get in to the fine details. Where the technology becomes more like art. Overall, in this case, it seems that the process of forming the wood was almost too good. So good that the final product seems like plastic.

My description was based around "how do they get the steel in to the wood and keep it there?", how do they keep the wood from regaining its original form, and the hot technologies of the time. It certainly could be wood. Steam bending/forming is an ancient ship building technique. Resin infusion of wood is a thing also. So it might have started as a solid piece of wood but had resin infused to lock it in to shape once it was formed. If I was doing the forensics I would look very closely at where the steel contacts the wood. The inside not the outside. The fine details around the weld beads and where the spokes enter might tell a story. You could also burn a piece and see what it smells like and how it smokes. Polymers/plastics have a distinctive odor when they burn and tend to produce a black smoke. Many ways to get there, probably many technologies involved, probably combined to get the desired end result. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_bending https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impregnation_resin#:~:text=The impregnation of resins into,into a solid substance state.

I just skimmed over the thread. But it seems likely that this would be a wood-fiber reinforced polymer composite, with the original bulk material in the form of what would be called "bulk-molding" compound. A blend of wood fibers and reactive resin ( the precursor to a polymer) that would have the consistency of Play-doh. In that era the typical resin might be a polyester, like they used for surfboards. The mold might be pre-coated with a clear resin, similar to how hot tubs are made, maybe a polyurethane clear coat, for durability and weather resistance. Then the molding compound and steel frame would be placed in to the mold on top of the previously sprayed coating and the mold halves pressed together to form the wheel, then the whole assembly placed in to an oven or autoclave for curing. The end result is a wood-fiber reinforced polymer composite with a hard durable clear coating. The coating is then polished to give the final surface. So, definitely not just "plastic" unless you consider the wings of a stealth fighter to be plastic. But, not really wood either. A high-tech, for the time, product designed to look like wood but be better than wood. Wood has problems. Just one possibility. You can't spend a lot of time arguing with people who rail against "plastic:". The word is just too undefined, it doesn't really mean much. Literally, it means "formable".

I don't think that you're talking about the same measurement.

Maybe the clicking/knocking noise is the fuel pump. Not turning. The engine does not seem to be spraying any fuel. You did not mention fuel pressure. Very important.

Check the back of the fuse box. Fuses blow from heat. Maybe you have some corrosion, causing heat, or a short circuit to the AC circuit.

AC has its own fuse.

Any mechanical component from the brake pedal to the MC piston could be too tight. Each contact point is meant to have a small amount of play. The play at the pedal to MC can be hard to get right because of cramped quarters. I used to adjust mine so that I could feel when the MC rod was just contacting the MC piston and the clevis pin was loose in the holes. You can adjust the rod with a pair of pliers while everything is connected. It will spin when the locknut is loosened. People have had problems using the FSM numbers on their booster rod because of the variety of aftermarket parts and gaskets and adapter things. There's a tool you can get that will measure the depth then transfer it to the rod if you're not confident of your measurement technique. Somebody has posted it in the past, here's an example. https://www.amazon.com/Sunyat-Power-Booster-Pushrod-Adjustment/

Might be that you have a hydraulic pressure buildup or hang up, not releasing quickly, but releasing slowly. So you're not catching it by the time you get a wheel lifted. You could lift the front end and confirm that the wheels spin freely then drop it down and go for a drive using only the parking brake. Check for heat. That would tell you if the pads are dragging all of the time or only when you pressurize the hydraulics. Or you could just let them cool down and go for a drive using only the parking brake. If it's a slow leakdown you'll get the same result.

Just found an old thread where I was so focused on the turn signal that I didn't notice the involvement of the hazard switch. In case anybody finds it. Weird how the brain evolves...

I would plug it in and back probe. Or identify the trace and/or switches that go from G to GY and measure continuity. I can't remember what the inside of the switch looks like.