Zed Head

You might have missed this because it wasn't the problem in site's case. But it is a big deal if the panel is not completely sealed around the edges. There is no way to seal all of the entrances in to the inside of the back hatch lid. The area around the latch loop cannot be sealed without lots of effort. The best way to keep the gases from getting sucked in is to completely seal the perimeter of the cardboard panel. I used stick-on foam weather-stripping from Home Depot. The funny thing about the problem is that opening the windows makes it worse. It creates low pressure in the cabin, which causes anything hanging out behind the car to get sucked in through the hatch lid.

But, if you're using the 240Z distributor maybe the clamping screw is on the back.

Aren't the top rings different also?

Looks like the mounting pedestal is backwards. The clamping screw screw should be to the front. Might be some other things not quite right. It's funny how hard it is to find a simple good picture of how the drive quill should be oriented. Probably why so many people have problems with it. Nissan never really got it right throughout ll of the years of the FSM. 1978 isn't bad though.

8325 is right behind it. Better shape, seems to be. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-247/

8877 went for $13,000. Had a crunched nose and some bad left side rear quarter body work. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-102/

Here's some more ideas, but it's your fault if you damage it? I almost posted earlier about the irony of offering a performance part that is very difficult to use with other performance parts. Kind of funny. But if sales are good, carry on. Not bad, but the closer option would be a flare wrench crowfoot. Might work. Maybe Koni or MSA could do the work to find a size that fits a Z top hat? And do the math on the proper torque setting. Honestly after the aggravation most people aren't going to be using a torque wrench anyway though. Right? https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9710M-8-Inch-Crowfoot-Size-10/dp/B0002SRJF4?th=1

Pretty easy to unbolt the MC from the Booster without removing the hydraulic lines. Unbolt the warning switch so you get more flex in the lines. The warning switch does not block flow like it is proposed to do some times. It just moves the plunger to turn on the light. There's a troubleshooting chart in the FSM.

Also interesting is Blue's cam spec's page on AtlanticZ. He shows the L24E cam as an E. And notice though that the specs for the early L24 are the same as the early L28. You can also see that the specs changed as emissions specs got tighter. Catalytic converters and all that. Big picture, I don't think a person could tell the difference by the way an engine performs. Although, the L24E shows as having lower lift. So, you could follow the bread crumbs - somebody has an MN47 L24E head with a K cam, Blue shows the L24E as an E cam, the L24E used the MN47 head, K is probably very similar to E. Are you sure it's a P79 head? Do you actually see the P and the 79 on it? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

I wrote a thing yesterday and pasted a link but I guess I didn't hit the submit button. Here's a link about a K cam in an MN47 head. The MN47 head is used on the L24E. Specs would be in a late 70's, early 80's Maxima FSM, I'd guess. Post #7 if it doesn't go directly there.

It's been a while Mr. AK. What's been happening?

I'd look for signs that the cam has been changed. Witness marks on the bolt heads, does the cam rotate easily, is the timing chain and sprocket original, etc. Are you sure the L24 E specs are different? It's really just a 2.4 size 280ZX engine. No reason for significantly different specs., except for better fuel mileage maybe. Can you link a source for the different L24E specs? Whatever you find out it's probably a good core for grinding. Good luck.

I think that they're all about the same as far as performance. Changes were most likely made for emissions. What would you do differently if you had the exact specifications? The lift is the same, the valve openings and closings chnage by just a few degrees. Here's 1982.

How about making a special washer with a D-shaped hole? Squared, or slotted, or spanner-holed, whatever depending on the room available, something to grab on to. Or maybe with the spikes underneath to grab the surface, like a lock-washer. Leave it under the nut after tightening, for future removal. Koni or MSA should make them, and include them with the product.

You might have the rod to the master cylinder adjusted too long. Could also be the rod at the pedal to the booster. This can close the fluid return hole to the MC reservoir. The fluid expands and can't escape. The fluid leaking out of the switch is probably coincidence or a result of the constant pressure on a small leak. Anyway, there should be a small amount of play at the rod from the brake pedal. Easy to check first.

Something might be coming loose. Better check the things you touched when you installed the coilovers.

Where, not when. What is touching what?

Where?

If the goal was to answer the title question then the simplest answer is "neither". Nothing left to discuss. It was fun.

I have conjured up the proper term, I believe. Unnatural wood. It is wood, some would call it real wood, but is not as nature produced it. It is unnatural wood. The term acknowledges the woodness of the wheel but recognizes the state of the wood in the wheel. There are alternative words for those who don't like it. https://www.thesaurus.com/browse/unnatural

Here's some interesting discussion about nomenclature. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultured_meat

Forgot to say that this thread is a lot like the premise for Blade Runner. Do you just pretend it's real and enjoy it? Does the truth really matter? Love is love, right?

I offered a path to knowledge for those that want to know what, exactly, the steering wheel is made of. Sorry that I placed it in your philosophical discussion thread about what "real wood" is. Anybody who has actually worked with wood, real wood directly from a tree, would not consider the wheel to be made of real wood. It is made of wood, but the final product is not real wood. Just like in the construction industry, beams made of real wood glued together are not a considered or called a wood beam. They are called laminated wood beams. A fine distinction but informative. It tells you what it is. Real wood has inherent flaws, like susceptibility to swelling or rot from moisture, or shrinkage and warping from losing moisture, like in the hot environment of a car. Your continuous arguing is ironic in that you seem to want to show and protect the superior qualities of the Z car yet you're arguing that the Z's "wood" steering wheel is made of an inferior material. If it was real wood most of the wheels today wood be warped and cracked. Like real real wood wheels. People that know real wood understand its flaws and know what the term means. https://www.timber-technologies.com/wood-products/laminated-beams/

There are several different perspectives someone might have about a project like that. Reverse-engineering, a forensic analysis challenge, a training exercise for the use of characterization instruments, even an example of a "green" technology. Or an early historical example of a wood-polymer composite. If you make it apparent that you're not profiting from the work the resistance to doing it for free will be minimized. It's a cool project related to a cool car. Guaranteed to raise interest. Even better, if a writeup of the work was done, shining some light on the university, everybody wins. I would make it clear that the main question is about the type of binder used. Is the binder a synthetic polymer or is it organically derived from wood itself? One is realer than the other but neither produces 100% "real wood". The issue of whether or not it should be called real wood will be irrelevant.

It's actually a Ringo song. Post-Beatles. By Hoyt Axton. He is a fascinating guy. Many bands covered his songs. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No_No_Song A different Axton cover...