Zed Head

It's been pretty well documented that what is shown as a red link is actually a brown link (they're shown in the FSM) and it is also a lower rating (smaller gauge) than the green link (also in the FSM). I never looked too closely at that chart in the past but now see that it has a yellow and a pink link. You won't find those on a Z. Maybe a ZX but not a Z. (Sorry Blue 246, no offense intended). Some of the Z car aftermarket suppliers like thezstore.com have updated their fusible link pages to show it. Don't forget that fusible links are "slow blow" fuses. Most automotive fuses are meant to fail quickly. Good luck.

Z-Series. A new take on the series designation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/385470127007

Seems like ZCD might not understand thermal conductivity. Strange. DescriptionNew fuel pump insulator spacer for Datsun 240Z and 260Z cars with mechanical fuel pumps. This spacer has two functions, one is to get the correct spacing for the fuel pump arm to the eccentric on the camshaft and the 2nd purpose is to insulate the fuel pump from heat. One gasket is required on each side of the spacer. Choose from phenolic plastic or billet aluminum.

He could make his own out of really really thick cereal box cardboard. 😀

Pretty sure that the spacer is described in that thread I posted. You'll have to work your way through it. If I recall right some pumps didn't have the correct distance from the eccentric or they didn't pump correctly within the range of motion of the arm. Stick it in its spot and see when the arm contacts the eccentric. You'll have to spin the engine a little bit by hand to get on and off the bump. If the arm moves through much of its motion on the base circle that might be a sign that you need the spacer. The spacer might also be part of the heat reduction program. There's a document in the Downloads area about that. carpartsmanual just shows gaskets. Don't know how thick they are. SteveJ has replied. Posting blind!!! https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/fuel-pump-tube/mechanical

Found it and another.

There is a whole long thread about bad new mechanical fuel pumps out there somewhere on the forum. Within the last 5 years I think. Worth finding, it has solutions in it. New does not mean good.

"Crank" is what the starter does to the crankshaft. First the engine cranks, then it starts. Are you saying that you have a crank - no start problem? Or a no crank problem? Edit - couldn't see your signature until I signed in. Carbs. Could be water.

Actually, I think that's the AAR port so even drier...

It's just an air/crankcase gas fitting. It's not in the liquid fuel system so can't clog the injectors. A thin piece of cardboard would work just fine. No reason for it to disintegrate. Your old yellow one is more likely to fall apart. The pieces will get just get sucked in to a cylinder and blown out the exhaust pipe. There's always silicone sealant. Probably the only reason that there is a gasket there is to keep PCV gas liquids from seeping out and making a mess.

This is the most important one. It shouldn't be an also, it should be the first thing. Have you checked for injector activation using the lights? Over here we call them "Noid" lights for some reason.

Still not clear where, exactly, you took your measurements. Maybe you have a bad ECU.

Kind of sounds like the AFM is either disconnected electrically or the vane is stuck or the spring is too tight. The ECU is not getting the signal to open the injectors for longer periods of time. Have you tried putting the other AMF on and do you get the exact same results? Can you see the counterweight move when the engine starts? It should move when the engine is cranking and even more when the engine starts. Have you checked the AFM results at the ECU connector? Do you see the 180 ohms, and the 100?

Does the tachometer needle go to zero while the engine is still running? Not clear if you're saying the tach shuts down or the engine shuts down. " it just shuts down" You might be noticing that some of us are having a hard time figuring out what you're trying to communicate. Could be a bad ignition module. Could be a bad AFM. Could be clogged fuel injectors.

It's not really clear if the engine starts and will continue to run if you keep your foot on the gas pedal. Or if it only starts then dies. If you sit in the driver's seat and hold the gas pedal partly open can you get the engine to start and continue to run?

There's a gauge on the adjustable FPR. Watch the gauge after you prop open the throttle blade so that the engine will stay running. Once the engine is running, many things can be learned and understood. Fuel pressure, ignition timing, throttle response. vacuum leaks, etc.

You should read the Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM so that you understand how things work. And, for whatever reason, you don't use the advice you get and do something completely different instead. Nothing wrong with experimenting but people will lose interest if their advice is ignored. Good luck.

I forgot a bunch about what you were doing. I see also that you already had the idle screw opened up. There are other possible reasons why it won't run unless it gets lots of air. Maybe there is a big vacuum leak and you need more AFM vane movement to supply more fuel. You could test that by propping open the AFM vane. Maybe ignition timing is off. Maybe valve timing is off. If it was mine I'd probably prop open the throttle blade after I got it started, or before I started it, so I could keep it idling while I messed around with ignition timing and the AFM. Either have a friend hold the throttle open or prop it open na dbready to shut the key off it starts to rev too high. Once you get it to idle so that you can work in the engine bay then you can move the AFM vane more or less open to add more or less fuel through the injectors. The effect will be a clue. Actually, if it was mine I would take the valve cover off and verify cam timing, then adjust valve lash, then set ignition timing as close as possible, check the air flow path including the filter for obstructions (mice, etc.), then start it, let it idle, and start fine tuning. Lots of ways forward.

FAIL! Didn't mention hot or cold.

Ask it something technical, like how to adjust valve lash on a Datsun engine. Or change a tire.

If the vane (blade) was stuck open there would be too much air and the einge would rev too high at idle. The whole point of the blade is to keep the air out so the engine does not blow itself up. If you can keep it running with your foot on the throttle pedal (it's called a throttle because it throttles the air from the engine) then you should be able to keep it running by opening up the idle speed screw. Once you get it to idle you can mess around with timing and the AFM vane and other things. You mentioned the AFM and it sounded like you thought that somebody had messed with it. Removed the glue blobs maybe, and adjust the spring tension. That would be bad.

Actually... it is bad. Bland. It leaves me empty, devoid of emotion. Not bad for a grade schooler though. And, 240Z's aren't known for power or roaring. The AI being must have scavenged from Hybridz.

You can re-mark the damper pulley since you're using a piston stop to determine TDC. A 78 should have the degree marks on the tab on the cover. Make a new mark and then you can use a timing light to set timing. Assuming that somebody just put a damper from a different model on the engine. If the damper rubber is bad then it might just move again. Anyway, that's kind of how working on the EFI engines goes. A long list of small things that need to be corrected. Once you get them all correct it will run like a top.

Maybe I didn't understand what you were saying here. Did you assume that the piston was at TDC because the rotor was pointing at spark lead #1? Or did you use a piston stop or at least something in the spark plug hole to determine TDC? The spark jumps across a gap as it gets close to the terminal so you can't really use the rotor to guess at timing. The leading edge of the rotor terminal is what you would want to look at if you're going to guess.

Racer X has a good point. You have so many different issues though it's hard to figure out where to start. On the EFI throttle bodies there is a screw with a big round head on it that you can turn by hand. That is the throttle blade bypass screw that controls idle speed through air supply control. You could try just opening that up, (unscrewing it to let more air in), and see if that will allow you to start the engine and let it run by itself. On the EFI engines there is also the auxiliary air regulator (AAR) that lets air past the throttle blade when the engine is cold. On a properly set up system the AAR keeps the idle up when cold, and the idle speed screw determines warm idle RPM. If you know that the piston is at TDC then the mark on the damper pulley should be at zero. If it's not you might have a bad damper. The rubber degrades and the pulley slips. So a timing light won't help you if that is the case. I'll circle the two parts I mentioned from your pictures and you can check them out. Idle speed bypass screw - AAR -