Zed Head

That's a good idea about the Charge light. On the internally regulated alternators, the Charge light would not light if the L wire was disconnected, and charging would stop. But with externally regulated systems L runs to the VR. Looks like F comes straight through from Ignition and the charge light just indicates the balnce between A and the battery. So, it should light if charging stops, I'd think. So, good question - what is the Charge light doing?

He's a couple of simple steps away. He has the meter, the engine runs, he's taken measurements. He just needs to take a few more measurements, with the right conditions. He knows the alternator will charge. He just doesn't know why it stops doing it.

That's odd. Others might know a component level reason for it (I don't), but what you're saying is that either the VR or the alternator stops working at higher RPM or higher current/voltage. You really need find a way to attach your leads to the battery terminals and work the throttle by hand while watching the meter to get some more information. If you get charging at idle but it kicks off at higher RPM, then the F to Bat test might tell you if it's the alternator or the VR. I would connect the meter to the battery, start the car, and confirm that charging kicks out at higher RPM. Then connect F to Bat and do the same. If it keeps charging at higher RPM (don't rev too high) then you most likely have a VR problem. If it's a solid-state VR it could just be that the circuitry can't handle the heat. If it still stops charging at higher RPM with F to Bat, then it's the alternator.

Seems like some facts are being convoluted. The alternator charged, at least for a short while, according to the above. And the fusible link fried a year ago. But now the alternator doesn't charge. Post # 6 - " I just had tested the car when at 2000 RPM and it read 12.07v." Just saying there's odd things going on. Maybe a loose Lamp wire? No Lamp, no charge.

Looks to me like everything is working correctly. As noted, the alternators don't put much out at idle RPM. If your eight starts were just to get the engine idling so you could work on it, it might be that you just need to start driving it. The burning link though, from the past, might be because of an intermittent short. It could be the short that's your problem, not the charging system. If you rev the engine to ~2000 RPM and charging voltage increase to ~14 volts, there won't really be anything to fix in the charging system.

Pretty cool Jai. I feel like classiczcars.com won something. Looks great. I started to zoom in on that girl's belly to see what was written there but had to stop.

I'd probably go Duralast if I was going to do another. Their transmission mount was good quality. http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/motor-mount/duralast-motor-mount/4762_0_12553/?checkfit=true The picture looks like site's Anchor though.

I bought some of the mounts with no attached nut and did not have the problem. But I had to supply my own four nuts and bolts, and the threads on the stud were buggered up. Poor quality overall. Can't remember the brand. Maybe people could list some brands, and we'll find a good one. Sounds like Anchor has the mismatched peg.

Do you mean the peg, not the circle? Basically made a 1/2 peg? You could also file the peg down flat,then drill and tap a hole n the right spot. Run a small bolt through, or just a press fit rivet in an unthreaded hole, and you have a new peg. Looks like the mounts changed in 73. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/engine-mounting/manual-from-c-hls30-46001-rls30-grls30

$21,600. 3 d 17h left.

Is that one of those European cars? Noting shows on the link. Maybe you have to be a member.

Might just be toxicity. Silicone fluids are generally non-toxic.

They are identical (but not symmetrical) and someone did flip one for the other side. Nissan. That's they way they made 'em. Everybody takes a pause when they first see that.

I think that it helps to remove the bolts, maybe just one, holding the struts to the brackets though. They stick out and stop the edge from sliding by. It's a tough job.

Probably hard to find a non-purple DOT 5. It's purple so that some well-meaning mechanic doesn't cause a huge problem by topping off with a non-DOT 5 fluid. Compatibility.

The "pump" is the engine, vacuum comes from the intake manifold. The bottle is right next to the magnet valves so you'd have to run some extra vacuum hose or move the valves also. It should be easy enough to do though, just run more hose. The bottle/reservoir needs to be stiff enough to withstand the external pressure.

Sounds like progress. The TVS is an important component. Ignition timing needs to be right also, of course. If you get to where it runs great, but just has a slight hesitation at mid-range throttle, consider adjusting the coolant temperature sensor circuit resistance. It's a common fix. The 280Z's seem to have been tuned to the edge originally for emissions and economy, and many have ended up too lean over the years. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html And, of course, fuel pressure,

I had a certain 205-70-14 tire (can't remember which brand) on my factory alloy wheels and they rubbed slightly when cornering hard. I think it was just a touch on the fender lip. Rolling it probably would have fixed it, but I got new tires of the same size and it stopped. That's on a lowered car, Tokico springs on a 280Z. There's not a ton of room in there. Control arm bushings might play a part also, but, somewhat ironically, the loose factory rubber might be better to avoid rubbing since it lets the body move away from the outside tire, which tends to get closer to the fender lip on a hard corner. Lots to think about. I've had a whole range of cars over the years that rubbed, from the inner fender well to the outer edge. How you plan to use the car matters.

It's harmony01. Who never actually closes a sale, apparently. http://www.ebay.com/sch/harmony01/m.html?item=162128506902&viewitem=&rmvSB=true&forcerRptr=true&afsrc=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Think I found it. Toyota 4 piston truck calipers with 300ZX rotors. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5705

Just noticed your offset question. Your rotor/disc is offset, but your wheels are not. The spacers are behind the wheel mounting surface, moving the rotor inboard. So you're running normal offset wheels, probably. There's a big selection out there.

Don't forget the off-setting problems theory either. He might be thinking the coolant sensor isn't involved becuase they usually run rich when that's a problem. But you seem to be running lean. He's focused on lean. A shorted coolant sensor circuit would cause lean. By the way the sensor is often shortened to CTS.

OP means original poster. The guy that started the thread. Yes, the sensitive tech problem. It shows up occasionally. People will get on to a forum and announce that they are an ASE certified tech but then realize that they don't know how these old systems work. Lots of teeth-gnashing and nasty words ensue, typically. If you want to give him the foundation for the whole system show him the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter, and the "fuel enrichment" chart. It's all about adding fuel to a base injector open time. Then he can reason things out as he goes. More satisfying.

I mentioned that in #82 but it's buried in other words. The OP is probably at that point where he's thinking "maybe I should replace all of this EFI stuff with carbs?"

Home Depot press-on weather strip around the cardboard panel is the cheapest fastest. But working on the other stuff is fun anyway. Thanks for the part numbers cliffunseen. Added to my list of extra stuff I should buy.