Zed Head

Seems like you might be getting ahead of your self. You started out simply cleaning up some valve seats now you're about to replace them. But you haven't really inspected the rest of the parts. Might not be worth new seats. After you check the valve guides for wear, and the valves themselves (the stems), and the cam lobes and the rocker arms (you know which rocker arm goes to which lobe, right?, hope you didn't randomly disassemble), and add in the cost of new valve seals, you might decide that the ten thousand miles still left in those old worn seats will get you by until you have the cash to do a complete job.

Did you get this book yet? It's pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fuel-Injection-Systems-HP1557/dp/1557885575 https://www.diyautotune.com/product/performance-fuel-injection-systems-hp-books/. There is a variety of areas that people have problems with - computer technology to connect to and program MS, the fundamentals of EFI, how to get their parts to work with MS, etc. MS projects are multi-disciplinary.

Ahhh...that was not clear at all. You recycled the PO's ad. When you put your "south of Olympia" at the bottom of the ad, it used the CL font, not the classiczcar's default font. Looked like it was part of the CL ad. So what's the new price? The Kingston price from the PO or do you have a new one? You really should make a new ad.

I've studied it but don't have it. You could just throw things out and see if the bounces make sense.

I've read that the stock manifolds flow pretty well. It's the pipes after the manifold that offer the most potential. Bigger from the manifold back. It would be a bit pointless to go with headers but stock size pipes to the back. No offense to those that have done that. Those three exhaust studs are really difficult to remove. If you try it use lots of heat. I've had some that would only move when everything was hot. As it cooled I couldn't turn it any more. If they look like they'll last a while just clean up the threads and leave them. You'll probably break them trying to remove them.

So it was in Centralia? You might not realize that you never actually said that you saw the car in person. You reposted a CL ad, but didn't say you visited. I was just trolling the voices in Marks' head, since south of Olympia is probably within his exploration range. 2675 isn't far from 4718.

Yes, Kingston is across from Edmonds, north of Seattle. Could be the CL poster was just advertising on several venues. Thought you might have your shed built. That yellow 280Z is still sitting up on Skyline Drive. Rotting away.

I was just making the point about the general weakness of the system. It's sensitive, it won't brute force its way ahead like my Pathfinder system, which actually bent a wiper arm when I turned them on with a blade frozen to the windshield. Once I got all of my components back to their 35+ years ago level of cleanliness and corrosion, and the electrical system up to par, it works fine.

Kingston isn't just south of Olympia. Maybe in Tenino, Chehalis or Centralia. Maybe close enough for @Mark Maras

Seems like the sealers are more designed to save tanks with potential pinholes, thin spots, cracks, etc. If you have solid steel, the cleaning and rust removal is probably enough.

How about this guy - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125760-wtb-240260280-little-to-no-rust-oklahoma/#entry1176292 You're not contiguous but about as close as the other end of Texas probably. It may get butchered though.

The motor is so weak and voltage sensitive, and the alternators so close to the edge at idle speed, that every little bit helps. There are many many wiper motor "upgrade" threads out there. Even the type of wiper blade probably makes a difference.

There is a ton on this site about how to value these cars. Matching numbers, rust, provenance, all of that. You've asked essentially the same question multiple times. Really looks like you're just trying to set a flip price. You haven't asked anything about how to restore them or where to get parts. Might be why the response is muted. Nothing wrong with buying and reselling, but the beating around the bush will get old. Why not just put it on eBay with a high reserve? Post lots of pictures. We'll pick it apart and when it doesn't hit your reserve number you'll have a high bid to guesstimate the price. There's a guy in Beverly Hill CA that does that over and over. Beware though, that now that "harmony01" car and all of his cars actually, is/are tainted with all of the bad press. I doubt that anyone from this site would buy it for what the guy's asking. He's had it up too many times, it's old news. Who wants to be the sucker that finally paid maximum price? Just pick a good profit for your time, add it on, and resell. Everybody wins.

Forgot that the guys who know stuff are in Toronto - http://zccazconvention.com/conventions/2016/ You;ll have to wait, or you could head up there. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55368-zcon-2016-toronto-who-is-going/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55903-zcon-2016-pics-with-love/ @my1st240z

Browse around the site. The link below has a some threads about cars on eBay. Somebody will join the thread fairly quickly. Maybe a buyer. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/79-internet-finds/

You might as well say it outright if you're looking to flip it. That looks collectible and I'm not a collector. If you're looking for a restoration project, that's a good one and this is the right site to be.

Post some pictures, or a link to the ad that had the pictures.

I've attached my hood to the rafters of my garage before unbolting it. An option. You do need room to roll the car out from under though. Plan ahead.

It's a combination of a weak motor and low voltage at idle RPM, usually. Try an experiment - turn up your idle speed, or use your foot on the throttle, until the voltmeter shows that the alternator is putting out more than battery voltage. See if the wiper speed is still slow. When I had a weak battery and low idle speed, mu wipers would often stop completely at a stop light. A fully charged battery, better alternator, and 100 extra idle RPM solved the problem.

Seems like a new hole could be drilled without flipping the mount. Another, somewhat convoluted option might be to fasten the snubber to a plate via a threaded hole in the plate, then use the two outside holes to fasten the plate to the TV mount. Clears up the center top of the TV mount. Just realized that TV didn't supply the outer holes for the GM mount. I'd prefer two bolts if using the hanging GM mount. Anyway, lots of drilling, cutting, trimming options.

Diseazd, I think that you must have drilled a new hole. That's why the stop hangs off the edge of the mount. Since it's a snubber, it doesn't matter much where it hits the diff. Easy good idea.

That picture shows the GM transmission mount, not a snubber. The GM mount actually has three holes, you can use the two outer ones instead of the center. If you are using a snubber though, you might have to trim the stud down with a hack saw. Maximum effect would be to trim the stud down, and use a thin washer, maybe a thin nut also, and some thread locker. I used a snubber for a short while and pretty sure I trimmed the stud. Not because it was a problem, it just bugged me.

Did you get an older model or are you assuming that it needs a low energy coil? I'm not sure which thread it was discussed in, maybe this one, but the latest versions allow high energy coils. Not less than 1 ohm, but that's what the 78 and later Z's and ZX's use, about 1 ohm. In the higher energy range, certainly more than the old 240Z systems. With dwell control, which is the key to the modern systems. http://www.123ignition.nl/downloads/manuals/123SWITCH6.pdf

Pellets will give the hawks lead poisoning. They'll die. You should use BB's.

Me individually, or the topic? Or your car? I can stop. We're all just out here watching what's going on with other people's projects. Red Bird is winning awards and it's a low-budget, survivor 280Z. People spend tons on restorations or on race cars, I'm just wondering...