Zed Head

Actually the skin might be a two component urethane also. So it might not melt or dissolve but it can still absorb solvent and swell, and crack. The key here though is that the paint may not dissolve anyway if it's a two-component paint, so a solvent might be pointless. Bu the shop should know all about the type of paint and how to remove it. Or if it is removable at all.

Just wondering what it will be when it's done. It's purpose. Maybe the stroker engine does belong in there. I tend to look at things and think "that was money/effort well-spent" or the opposite. Just seems like a lot of money to get back to a basic 1973 240Z. Don't mean to be a buzz-kill, just trying to comprehend. You did offer up a variety of scenarios for review, but they all seemed costly to me. And for $1000 shipping fee, you could save $9000. That's a Rebello engine.

Are those the only two pictures you have? A side shot and an engine bay shot aren't much. Can't even tell interior color with the tinted windows. How many miles on the engine? The car? Is the engine original, stock, and never rebuilt? Interesting, but mysterious.

No offense, but couldn't you buy two cars that are already done for $28,000? Just curious about what the final product is meant to be. Is it just a nice driver, a show car, a track car? The way this reads, you get a painted empty body delivered back to you. Is that right? Just wondering, why? Your money of course, really just trying to absorb what the project is about.

Today's urethane paints are usually two component which means that they won't dissolve after they cure. Acetone, MEK, or other strong solvents might do more damage than good and they probably won't dissolve the overspray. I wouldn't use any solvents at all, that old dash will absorb solvent, swell, and crumble. Could be a disaster. If the dash has had Armor All or similar vinyl care products used on it, the overspray won't adhere well. A light scrubbing with more Armor All might remove it. If you decide to try a solvent, test it out on a hidden corner first.

If you post real quick before the dropdown box fills in, you can lock up the box. Computer fun.

@EuroDat Where's he @?

I think the biggest problem is the bolt pattern. zcardepot seems to have one that will work. The difference in effort between small and big is probably barely noticeable.

...make some stir-fry.

This is actually an opportunity to improve what you have. Or you can just try to get it back to what it was before it started chattering. But there are definitely ways to make things worse even with new parts. Pedal force required can increase with a low-tolerance low cost pressure plate, for example. Those cheap eBay parts are just people with offshore manufacturing connections, bringing parts over, and/or distributors for all of the other brands. Typically they just reverse engineer what's out there, have it made overseas, and give it a their name. They're just a distributor; databases, computers, and shipping is what they do. Better to get an established brand, I think. Some of these are old but one is from 2012, and the yelps are very recent. http://gripforce.com/ http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/aftermarket-vendor-review/647885-gripforce-f1-racing-clutches.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1106051 http://www.yelp.com/biz/gripforce-brea

Many parts stores will gladly bring in extra parts to have on hand if they might make a sale. Does't really hurt them, their warehouse trucks won't notice a few extra pounds. Doesn't hurt to ask. They'd probably let you buy both and return the one you don't use. OR, your mechanic might be able to get them both on hand. Mechanics have connections. Don't assume that you need the internet. Seriously, if your mechanic has been in business for a while, he should have the answers to all of your questions, including the resurfacing. He may not want to do the running around but he should know. Have you asked? Aside from that, it would be a sad comment on the state of industry in America if a guy in MICHIGAN, the former heartland of the automotive world, can't get a flywheel resurfaced. The crankshaft seal is one piece, press-fit.

You'd have to assume that the PO kept the original 2+2 flywheel. Odds are good that it's still the bigger 240mm 2+2 clutch. But, chatter is often a sign that the flywheel friction surface is uneven. So, you might need a flywheel resurface. These days, a resurface might cost more than a replacement flywheel. Strange but true, depending on your location, labor costs can be high. You could call around about the cost of resurfacing then decide whether to get a replacement flywheel. If you end up getting a replacement then you have more options. Although the factory parts are of high quality. Can't you find decent parts in the neighborhood? Why go to eBay if you don't have to? Then you can swap easily them if they're not right. The 240mm flywheels and clutch kits are still fairly common. The 225mm flywheels are hard to find.

There is one small piece that can be replaced in there that will add some compliance. Called a spacer, it sits between the spring seat and the insulator. Still available I think, I bought some a couple of years ago. They compress and look like one piece but they can be pried out. It's just a rubber donut. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/13

I was just showing a possibility. eBay is another. He has a part number now, hit the Google..

Kind of odd that the buyback price was so high. Seems like they might be trying to play the emotional angle and trying to squeeze a few dollars out of the deal. It will probably go to a wrecking yard for $300, which is how I thought they set their buyback prices. Or is there a company out there that buys wrecked classics and parts them out or rebuilds them? There's $4500 worth of part-out there?

Old factory stock. http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-coupling-steer~48073-78500.html http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column/28

There is at least one, maybe two, labels on the car that many smog testers use. The one on my door jamb says "No Catalyst" in big bold letters. If it says "Catalyst" then he'll look for a converter. I had to point out once that there was a "No" in front of Catalyst after the guy looked at it then stuck his mirror under the car. I don't know what the labels say about EGR, my car doesn't have it.

CA is a tough place to own an old car. RCB may have got lucky and the inspector didn't look at his headers, as he suggested. They're heavy and shipping will be expensive. ZSpecialties might have one though. Probably need a $40 resurfacing and might have broken studs to remove. http://www.datsunstore.com/manifolds-exhaust-7083-p-2020.html

Linear springs will work fine. Rossiz has a set of Vogtland and Stagg on his 1978 car and likes them, If I recall right. They will lower the car slightly from stock, I believe. About an inch. @rossiz If those are the factory inserts, the tubes will be full of fishy-smelling oil, under the gland nut. The aftermarket inserts are self-contained, not the factory units though. Don't know if the factory units will over-extend or not.

I think it's called a CARB sticker or stamp. It means the part has been approved as a replacement part. If you can find a brand it might be on their list. Still need the plumbing to the EGR valve. At least you have the correct intake manifold. The black plate at the back with the two bolts is where the valve used to be. http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php http://www.arb.ca.gov/homepage.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_Air_Resources_Board

Your subconscious says you want it.

The visual part is that simple. Get the right parts bolted on so everything looks right. Getting it all working correctly might take some work. The 1977 system is pretty simple though, unlike the later ZX systems. Fewer valves and gizmos to worry about.

A lot like the first one though, isn't it? L28 instead of L24, triple Weber instead of double, but bodywise, the same questions. Even the same color. Welded diff, "upgraded" brakes that don't work. Twice the price. Not seeing a huge difference.

@Zed Head @Zed Head Think I figured it out. You have to choose the name from a drop down menu. If you add the @ after the fact it doesn't work.

@Mark Maras He's a hoarder. Obviously, I don't know how to do the "@" thing. Anyway, he might see it.