Zed Head

Another Series I car. Since it's been a topic of discussion recently... http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5389878929.html

Don't know how this guy is but representing someone else's work as your own isn't a good way to start. Pretty pretty pretty sure the first car was done in Chicago. Kuro's car. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5412520106.html

There's a Z-train on Ratsun. Tucson, AZ. Active today. I'm just a newbie.

Still surprised, yet not surprised, that the ZTherapy guys didn't chime in on the thread.

Here's the two wires you could jump to power the pump. Notice that one side is always hot so the pump will run as soon as you jump those two. To be safe, measure battery voltage on one side, and pump windings resistance on the other, to make sure you have the right pins. You could also determine which is direct to ground,and avoid that one. You can also see how disconnecting the oil pressure switch will cause the pump to run. Assuming that "on" means closed. Disconnecting causes open or "off".

I think that CO may be implying the right thing, that the relay is okay. You might be on a wild goose chase, from seeing a red herring. I have had the fuel pump relay problem from a dirty AFM switch, on my 1976 car. What happens is the car will start just fine, run for about 3 seconds, then die. If you turn the key to Start real quick you can keep it running, but the grinding noise will stop you from doing that many times. But, for 1978, Nissan used the alternator and oil pressure to determine if the engine is running. So AFM switch wouldn't be the fuel pump issue with a 1978 car. But, on top of but, if it won't even try to start without starting fluid, it may not have anything to do with the fuel pump. The simple test, if you get stuck, is to hot wire the fuel pump or the pump relay or its connector, to keep the pump running. If it's a relay or pump power problem it will start and run. I've heard, but not tried it, that with everything connected correctly, removing the oil pump wire will let the pump run when the key is on. Easy to try. If it doesn't work, just jump the two spots in the fuel pump relay connector (the other relay not the one you're looking at now) that power the pump, with a short piece of wire. Also, the initial buzz that you talk about it not a design feature but some kind of odd timing phenomenon. CO and others have discussed it before. It's not a priming pulse, it's just an accident. Not supposed to happen.

In line with CO's observation, that is a fine looking set of solenoids. Look brand new. Why did you even start testing it? I notice that you said EFI issue, but you're testing pump control.

Rockauto shows it as unavailable if you try to buy one but if you click on the part number it will show all of the cars that used it. Looks like they show too many, but they also call it an AC compressor relay, so maybe it was used in two spots on some cars. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209934&parttype=3180&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B1982%2BNISSAN%2B310%2B1.5L%2BL4%2BElectrical-Switch%2B%2526%252338%253B%2BRelay%2BA%252FC%2BCompressor%2BRelay&blanktemplate=true

You could put a paper filter in front of the K&N.

The factory used as short a section of rubber hose as they could. Point to consider. I thought you wanted metal to follow the original metal path. You could run rubber hose all the way back to the tank and the car would drive. Heating would help but all tubing has some degree of work-hardening from its initial production, and forming to shape. You'd have to heat the tube to red-hot then let it cool. But then that section would be softer than the steel on either side. The final bends will be hard to get right, either way. 3/32" is tiny. Are you missing a digit?

K&N says that theirs makes more power, and they off a Million Mile warranty!! http://www.knfilters.com/air_filter/2011/ford/f150_svt_raptor/6.2l

Can we fit the SVT F150 filter on to our Z cars. How big is it? I'd take a shot at it. And is the same technology used in other Ford filters or just the SVT? Good stuff, real world, thanks for sharing.

I used a piece of "repair" tubing to plumb in a fuel rail. 45 degree single flares (SAE style) on the cut ends of the stock tubing. Worked very well, no leaks. Most stores have a large selection of lengths hanging behind the counter. Buy a length of repair tubing and a flare fitting to match and you're ready to go. Many stores have loaner flaring tools if you don't have your own. Example: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/800156/N1650.oap?ck=Search_N1650_-1_-1&pt=N1650&ppt=C0290 The compression fitting shown would work also. I had compression fittings blocking my CSV pipe on two old fuel rails. 36 psi isn't much, even 90 wouldn't be much for a compression fitting.

I was talking about this comment - " only 2 days had passed since I'd put gas in, but not a half tank". Put a tub underneath and see if enough leaks out that it doesn't evaporate way. That would be a lot.

It is a messy place, for sure. Very exposed though so I don't think you'd get shot as long as you stayed in the open. What did you say on the note?

You seem to be implying that gallons of gas had leaked. That the gauge was much lower than expected, at 1/2, and it was still leaking (the gravel was still wet). If the tank is leaking and the gauge is at 1//2 then the filler hose is unlikely as the source. Could be one of the hoses to the fuel pump.

If someone really wanted coolant control through the carbs, one of these could be rigged to work, I think. 180 might be high but depending on where it was mounted, actual temperature through the carbs could be lower. There might be other temperature specs. out there also. http://www.amazon.com/Derale-13011-Fluid-Control-Thermostat/dp/B004XONNRQ http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-thermostats/high-flow-engine-oil-cooler-thermostat-185f-p-212.html A solenoid valve with a temperature-controlled electrical switch would work also. BMW has some low T switches, for their cooling systems.

Are you talking about where it came from or where it went? Smoke and mirrors is assumed.

Diseazd said a friend of his bought it, back in June 2015, mostly for the rust-free body. Said he's going to rebuild the engine anyway. His posts are in one of the linked threads.

You did ask about acoustics. I know that high frequency is very directional, so anything that points directly at the ears is good for the high notes. The passenger side should be interesting, since it's basically just a black piece of cardboard with a hole in it for the fuse box. You could probably sell just a better plastic panel, forget about the speaker. My cardboard panel has water-soaked swelled edges and is in poor shape. Good luck. Has anyone driven the car with the pod shown? Seems like big feet might have an issue.

My Pathfinder has tweeters in the windshield pillars and mid-range/bass overhead, behind the front seats, along with door panel speakers pointed under the knees. Excellent sound. My 280Z has two speakers behind the seats pointed straight up. Sounds like there's a small band behind me playing. Excellent sound, very clear. Is a speaker under the dash, pointed at the driver's legs a good spot? Seems like direction, along with muffling from the legs, might render it less effective. I wonder if there are better places. Just asking, don't want to be a buzz-kill.

Sent. Hope it's worth a trip. It's nice driving country either way, before it gets filled with houses.

Wow, thanks for making that clear for me. I am so far from jealous, and so far from the text-speak phone world that I didn't even get it until now. To all future California Datsun LLC customers - if you have a problem with product quality from Al Allen it's because 'you are jealous!". So don't expect good service, it's your personal problem. Just deal with it. Suckers.

Here's another link -

Never mind. And the version in the link below is gone, apparently. Funny thing though - California Datsun has changed screen name to URGELIS. Odd.