Zed Head

Somebody posted that a while ago, on this forum I think. It's kind of old. Edited out my negativity...

Somebody save this 280Z. It's been sitting in a shed that's falling apart for at least six years. I take a drive in to the country now and then and there it is. Made a picture from Google. Took the address out because I wouldn't want mine out there. I can PM anyone who's interested. It's west of Portland.

Here's one option. Notice the core charge. Not as bad as the AFM core charge but still pretty far up there. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5230

Found this, from the ZTherapy guys, they mention the difference. Thought that they would have chimed in on one of these threads - http://www.ztherapy.com/technical_stuff/spotterguides/zcar/240spotter.htm Actually, they mention just warm water but not the thermostat. Maybe the whole process was two steps: one to get the warm water in, then the thermostat to fix the new problem it caused. I had also found an image of a 1970 intake manifold that seemed to have the fluid passages cast in but no fittings attached.

yah, you never responded to the other post. Like you didn't read it. Have you looked at the parts yet? And is it actually a 1979 280ZX, or is it a 280Z with a 1979 differential? You said 1979 280Z, which is not an option. Not clear if you're relaying what somebody told you or if you know what you have. There are some details that you'll have to get in to. It's not just four big bolts and some heavy lifting like an old US car or truck. Take some pictures and post them. Good luck.

Some of the 79's came with R180's. That's actually one in the picture I posted. And 1979 apparently has a whole range of differential options, from 3.36 to 3.7, in R180 or R200 form. Plus, just to make it more interesting, 1979 still had the 3.321 1st gear 5 speed, not the later 3.062 1st, so a 3.54 would work best, IF it has the 1979 5 speed. But if the diff is welded who knows what else has been done. The OP asked this question quite a while ago on a different forum and I gave the same answer. But he/she hasn't even looked under their car yet. Maybe never even went back to the forum they posted on.

Pretty sure that you already posted about this, here or somewhere else. These cars have independent rear suspension. The differential and wheel hubs are separate. Posted a picture. The center arrow points at the differential. the outer arrow at the wheel. You can see the u-joints on the two drive shafts. The short answer is nowhere. You'll have to get custom axles or drill the ones you have. The diff is a completely separate issue from how many lugs the hubs have.

Braking in gear with the clutch engaged? Who knows.

Good luck with it. The early model boosters are difficult to find, I think, and sometimes the remanufacturers send the wrong one. The coil problem is a whole different issue. 2 seconds on a hot surface is pretty long. That's only about 110 degrees. Not really very hot. http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20100020960.pdf

Never mind. Breaking forum protocols, in general..

Actually, I believe that he tried to "check" vacuum and got zero. Then never really followed up. And checking vacuum won't tell you if the booster is bad. The booster only leaks when you press the pedal. The common symptom is "my idle speed goes up when I come to a stop light", but if you have a big leak or an edgy tune, it could go down. One of this threads problems is that we're all talking over each other. Simple stuff first, I recommend.

The corners wear off and they do get slippery. I don't know who runs zcardepot but he sure is covering the bases on z car needs. Here's some new rubber for a decent price - https://zcardepot.com/interior/pedal-pads/clutch-and-brake-pedal-pad-set-oem-300.html It's a stretch fit. No special tools required.

When the car stalls, is your foot on the brake pedal? If you weren't sitting in traffic, but instead were sitting somewhere with the parking brake on, and the brake pedal up, would the engine still stall? Maybe you have a bad brake booster. I don't know how carbs would be affected by a bad booster, but EFI shows a noticeable change in idle RPM when the brake pedal is pressed if the booster is bad.

I thought I saw this about the MC, but just noticed that you said "as usual...start with rear left", but then you said your "issue is starting with rear right". Not sure if you meant that you had already done rear left, and the problem started at right, or if you started at right and had the problem. That's a good point about the open line from Euro. I have speed bleeders on the back cylinders so that I can pump large volumes through the lines. They close on the return stroke.

Everyone is still giving advice that is complex and may be more than needed. He has an engine that runs fine, except for idle when it gets warm/hot. He can either reduce the engine temperature at idle, or adjust the carbs for only idle performance. Is it possible to adjust the carbs in a way that only affects idle? He can't seem to get his mind around changing the hot coolant flow through the carburetors, or improving overall engine cooling by blocking the heater core hoses. So, adjusting idle performance to handle the heat is all that's left. Sync'ing the carbs may seem like a good idea, but why would un-syc'ed carbs cause poor idle on a warm engine? It's an activity that doesn't seem to address the issue. I can learn something myself here. Is there a way to adjust the carbs so that only idle is affected? Just trying to stay focused on the simplest solution before it blows up in to something really messy. I thought that blocking two hoses was simple physically, but mentally, apparently, it's not.

The dual piston master cylinder relies on pressure buildup in both systems to work properly. The pistons are stacked. So if one system doesn't build pressure you lose about 1/2 of the total stroke, which makes everything difficult. People often have problems bleeding the brake upgrades. Calipers from other cars end up oriented incorrectly. I'd make sure that the end of the passage from the bleed screw is actually at the top of the piston cylinder. You can tell from the casting shape. Some calipers have the screw in one spot and the passage goes sideways to the piston bore. And four piston calipers probably have even more volume than the stock calipers, plus two high spots per side for bubbles to sit in. Study the calipers and where the bubbles would be. If you don't have a helper, position a mirror over the reservoirs, or contort yourself, and watch what happens when you pump. That's how I discovered my upside down caliper problem. Large volume leaves, then large volume comes back. That's not right.

Have you bled the fronts yet or are you trying to be methodical? I would jump ahead to the fronts. Sometimes have you go through the cycle a few times. If there's a ton of air in the front calipers you might be draining the reservoirs without realizing it. Pumping the fluid down until air is being pushed in then it all comes back out when you release the pedal. Or, you might be letting the pedal come back too far when pumping and going too slow. You want to pump quickly, and low on the pedal, so that the return hole in the reservoir is not uncovered for long. But that's with the fronts. The calipers hold a lot of fluid, and can hold a lot of air. Then, of course, there's always the upside down caliper problem. The bleed screws need to be on top. Easier to get to on the bottom but not where the air is .

Does the pedal pump up, but no fluid will come out of the open rear brake line no matter how hard you push? Or does the pedal just never pump up? The first would be an indicator of a blockage, the second, a blockage and a pressure build problem. You might bleed the fronts well to allow easier pressure buildup and see if that will blow any junk out of the line.

Groovy. Looks like Amazon sells those too. When I'm trying to find a picture of a part I usually get on Rockauto. Lots of pictures, instructions, and part numbers. You can either buy there or take the part number elsewhere.

jxq must have me on Ignore User.

That's a lot of gas. Scary.

Found some pictures on the interweb. So you're going to test JMortensen's old boss's theory, that a Porsche synchro ring is a direct fit in a Nissan transmission. Should be informative.

Where did you order it from? Pictures? I'd like to see what, exactly, a servo synchro looks like.

I think that the assumption was that the gas leaking from the damper caused the pressure drop. That would be a lot of gas though. In general, pulsing and vibration cause wear and damage. I wonder if the damper isn't also for durability of the other parts of the system. The injectors and FPR and pump would all feel the shock of the pressure pulses from the injectors opening and closing. Even the fuel hoses would pulse. Might just be for wear and tear, in addition to noise. Seems like pump noise could be handles with mounting insulation, hard to see that as the only reason.

I have a brass electrode cap on my engine. It's BWD brand, made at the same place as Standard. Turns out Standard makes two styles, a brass electrode model, and a T series aluminum. The T series is the economy model. Arnie probably found one and won't be back.