Zed Head

Does it show in the FSM? You made me go out to the garage to confirm that my 76 has no light there. Maybe Nissan was foreshadowing. 76 FSM - Thy do show the Fuel Warning lamp -

Have you tried just turning up the idle speed? You could add a lot more detail about engine temperature and time. Does it happen immediately or after a long drive? Maybe you have the simple percolation problem, from a hot engine. Are your heat shields installed? Nissan wrote a whole book about the problem. Anyway, it's all in here. Good luck.

I meant that the actions taken on one carb should produce the same outcome for the other carb. If you had your eyes closed and somebody else tested the carbs you shouldn't be able to tell that the carbs were acting differently. Think of it as two 3 cylinder engines connected in the middle. If one carb gives a different result than the other that's not right. Could be the cylinders or it could be the carbs. A weak cylinder might explain the lumpy idle also. Just a possibility. Doesn't mean that there's damage. Could be valve lash adjustment, for example.

Nice car. Are you saying that one carb behaves differently than the other carb, when tuning? Like the front is different than rear? Are you sure that all six cylinders are fully functional? Just clarifying. I'm not a carb guy.

They fixed it in 76. No mention.

The pages are full of reminiscence and nostalgia lately so here's something else to look at. Potential projects. Probably get either for $1500. A good start for just getting a Z to try out and hoon around in. V8 it maybe. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1976-datsun-280z-price-drop/6748564378.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1975-datsun-280z/6748446757.html

It's on the SOLD! list at msclassiccars. Lots more info too. A build list with hours and parts costs. Looks like it was built to sell. It really does look more like that Gas Monkey car. They built it to show what they can do. All of the parts are the common names you see on the performance Z sites. http://msclassiccarsllc.com/VehicleDetails.aspx?vid=565 http://msclassiccarsllc.com/Vehicles.aspx?vid=40 It has Home Depot parts! Oh no... Just kidding...

Las Vegas 2018. Edit - got my dates wrong. In the video he says September 27-29, 2018. Did the sale fall through or is it back on the block by the new owner? Not sure why you'd put a fuel cell, with filler cap in the cabin, in a street car. A drop spilled and you're smelling gas for hours. Not my world. Just a watcher. Edit - why make a video but not show the car driving? A few engine revs and some idling.

Not much info available. Three things, below. There has to be details somewhere, nobody would bid on color and drive train alone would they? And I thought "Fairlady" was for Japan market cars. Seems "in your face" to put the wrong label on an American engine in a 240Z. An odd thing to do. The car seems kind of like that Gas Monkey car. Lots of show, but is it fun to drive? HIGHLIGHTS 5.7L engine 6-speed transmission Blue with Black interior

Found another though that shows his 1970 has the "L". I might be looking at the wrong part. Post #16. Either way, it looks simple enough to add or remove. There is a lot of slop from there to the master cylinder. It's not a precision piece.

I think I found a picture, from this link. Looks pretty simple to add one. Just line up the new hole with the old hole, and the "L" with the clevis. https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Engine_Final_Install.htm

Found a picture just for fun. Didn't count links though. https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-280ZX-Engine-Timing-OSK/dp/B009GDG67S

The AAR has 12 volts at all times when the engine is running. You could put it on a switch if you want to test it as it's supposed to work. Have you tested for continuity to the AAR plug from pin 34 at the ECU? Maybe the ground circuit is missing.

No gaskets on the main cases, only the front cover. People like to use the Blue Hylomar non-hardening sealant. You can take it apart when you forget to do something. Your synchros look a little worn. Supposed to be even on both sides of the pyramid with a sharp point at the top. Hard to tell from pictures. There should be a gutter sticking out of the adapter plate. Might be broke off. Is it stuck to the drain magnet? Here's 1982.

Per the instructions I copied, your AAR is out of adjustment. Adjust it so that it is open on the average morning. It moves, which is good, but it's starting from the wrong spot. And you still have vacuum leaks.

The thermotime switch is on the circuit for the cold start valve. But the AAR shows a ground through the ECU, pin 34. Both madkaw and myself have mentioned that the AAR should be more open than a sliver. I can't remember what it looks like but Nissan provided a drawing. Pinch that hose when it's cold. If it splits fix it with a piece of heater hose. Then you'll know. But you still have vacuum leaks.

Be careful with the carb cleaner. It's a powerful solvent and will eat paint and swell seals.

Both the EGR and the BCDD can be vacuum leak sources. Check the PCV hose under the intake manifold too.

Mine dies immediately. You might have a leak, and somebody has adjusted the AFM to work around it. Here's another simple quick test - with the engine warmed up turn the idle speed adjustment screw all the way in. The engine should die. If it doesn't there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Here's the screw. Turn it clockwise until it's closed.

Hard to tell. I marked up a picture of where the hose should be, below. You could disconnect it and block the hose ends. Or just clamp it with some vise grips. If it does the the same thing then it's not having an effect. You voltmeter is probably jumping around because the idle is so low. The alternator needs a certain RPM level to create more voltage than the battery. You're seeing it go from battery to alternator as the idle goes up and down. What happens to idle speed if you loosen the filler cap, and remove it? The engine should die. If it doesn't then somebody has been tuning around a big vacuum leak. Not uncommon.

Could be that the AAR hose is clogged or connected incorrectly. If so, it wouldn't matter if it was open or not. Or there's some other problem so big that the AAR doesn't have an affect. Any chance you could post a picture of the engine?

Wait! I just browsed over to zcar and see that cg is already here (there). Here's a link that shows when things changed, by build date. But just because they changed doesn't mean they won't interchange. I seem to remember that cgsheen knew a lot about the swap. Might be wrong. I also have vague memories of people suggesting that if you just the whole box, Part #16, with everything in it, that it makes it easy. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Brake/Brake-Clutch-Pedal @cgsheen1

It's not uncommon for the backing plates to get bent on the edges when people try to remove the drums. I had one of those. You'll see a shiny spot on the edge, where it almost meets the drum. Actually, where it meets the drum but is not supposed to. If axle play isn't bad you can just tap or plier (ply?) the ding out and put it all back together. The rear bearings aren't really super precise. You can wait to change them.

My first thought was a worn bearing or one that wasn't replaced properly. People have problems installing the rear bearings. If it only happens when it has a side load that implies that the wheel and everything attached to it might be shifting slightly. If you take the wheel and drum off you might see some grind marks and/or be bale to feel the wheel flange play. There is a spec for side play. It's not much.

Here's one. Ha ha ha. Good luck. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/datsun-240z-shell-1971/6729822515.html