Zed Head

If "it isn't" then what's the worry? Just show up at the DMV, get your dB's measured and prove him wrong. If you go through all of that work even though the car "isn't" too loud, then the cop wins. Beside that if the cop sees/hears you again he's going to work twice as hard to find things wrong with your car.

Here's a fairly recent discussion on the topic, with some good outside links embedded. Building these old Datsun engines isn't the same as building an old chevy small block engine. Parts are hard to find and machine shops aren't used to working on them. With a small block chevy engine there are five suppliers for anything you might want to do.

There are some good writeups on the site about how to rebuild them yourself. Captain Obvious has posted one I think. Beside that there are many other causes for loose steering.

There's a button that seems to work now. Ignore this topic. It didn't in the past. You have to be signed in though. Then it doesn't show up in the various search results so you don't see the last comment. I just clicked it and checked.

With block modificatons. Longer stroke = more displacement = more power.

I think that the window has moved over because a roller broke or one of the rail mounts came loose. Push the window in and see what's loose. I don't that you can adjust that problem away. Something broke or a bolt or nut came loose. Edit - actually I see that the window front has dropped own, pushing the bottom of the window back. Pretty sure that you lost a roller. Sqwauk, repeat. It's a fairly common problem, they get brittle and crack.

The little plastic wheels tend to break. That's a fairly easy fix. If it's jamming that bad there's no fix for it without taking the door apart. Can you lift up on the window while working the crank handle? Don't let it get jammed on the way up.

Probably more effective to just buy an L28 and modify it. It's already bored, and has the head with bigger valves. 250 HP is asking a lot, that's about 1.5 HP per cubic inch. Like a 600 HP 400 CI engine. But people say it can be done. You'll need to go big on the cam and have the head ported, probably. 200 HP would feel like a lot though, which you can probably get with just a big cam and good exhaust system, on an L28.

If the stroke is stock L24 then you have a 2.4 liter engine. Not stroked, not 3.0. Not sure who Darcy is or why they are telling you it's a "stroker". If the valves were going to hit the cylinder walls they would have done so already. You're probably fine. L24 with N42 head. Make sure that your exhaust manifold doesn't block the N42 ports. On the other hand though, since you have somebody telling you it's a "3.0 stroker" and it's obviously not, it could be just a bunch of parts thrown together. Check the wipe pattern of the lobe on the rocker arm pads. Check head bolt torques and other critical things, to be sure it's actually a ready-to-run engine.

Very nice. 5 speed, 4 speed or automatic transmission? Good luck.

You do know that the "Western purchasers" are the companies we buy from right? The conspiracy to defraud the consumer starts here.

I've heard that antibiotics in food can make people xenophobic.

I'd put the bumpers and mag wheels back on and put it on BAT. Looks like a nice survivor, with serious resto potential. The first series of pictures look a lot better than where it ended up. Edit - also just noticed that it's not clear which set of wheels it comes with, mags or black steelies. You have both showing with it bumperless.

You should be able to measure bore and stroke from the bottom. Might take some ingenuity, but the pistons are right there and you can turn the crankshaft. Maybe that engine sticker is old and they didn't remove it. I don't think that you can get to 3.0 liters with just a 0.762 mm overbore. Which is what the sticker says, .030" = 0.762 mm. And I'm not sure that you can bore the L24 up to the 89 mm you need just to get to 2.9 liters.

I try to take a picture of the interesting ones. Sometimes they disappear fast.

Best be ready - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-605 And don't forget to check the ground circuit. Often overlooked. All of the coil's primary circuit current passes through the module, to ground. A dirty/loose connection can cause extra heat, in a part that already runs hot. Ignition modules hate heat. You might just take the module out, clean up all of the connections and reinstall it.

I get a distinct sense of rocker arms tapping on cam lobes... who knows. Here's a sound for comparison -

Could be the recording device. Might be your speakers. I have a Boston Acoustic system with tweeters and separate bass with its own amp. Circa 1995 Gateway. Very nice sound.

Sounded like normal valve lash noise on my computer. Wouldn't hurt to confirm valve lash since the head had been worked on. Maybe they're loose.

One more thing - make sure that somebody didn't install turbo injectors or some other high flow injector. You never know.

Apparently it's 1972, not 76. Snipped a picture. Here's my original Google search page. The links above didn't come in as links, apparently. Maybe this will. Forget it, just put this in Google - site:classiczcars.com escanlon windows

I think it's this one. The Resources page is all wacked out, I can't figure out what's what. I used Google to find the original page, with its own broken links. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41403-article-s30-door-window-problems-and-troubleshooting-procedures/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/57-enriques-s20-door-window-problems-troubleshooting/?do=download&csrfKey=ac8102f4e253cc3512ec9e84a85d68e9

Sounds great. Even if you find that the connections are right, measure resistance at the ECU connector to confirm proper function. Compare the values to the temperature chart in the FSM, or CO's chart which is on the site somewhere. And clean all of the connections in the harness. There are two bullet connectors along the fuel rail that could be corroded. Another fairly common, difficult to diagnose, problem is a hole in the FPR diaphragm. remove the vacuum line to the FPR and see if it has raw fuel in it. It should be dry.

I am pretty sure that there are pictures of 1976 windows in a Technical Article written by Escanlon. Not sure of spelling and didn't look for it, but I remember it from the past. It's in the Downloads area somewhere.

A tuneup can't hurt. Sometimes minor issues become more noticeable at steady engine speeds. Seems like a fuel issue would get worse after it started. I know that in the old days we would adjust our plug wires to avoid crossfire caused missing. Your distributor cap looks very clean on the inside, to Patcon's comment, but you can get shorts on the outside also, from dirt and grime. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor might do it. Good luck.