Dadsun

Gas Tank restore and POR15

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    I'm about to tackle the dropping and cleaning of my gas tank on my 1973 240z. I've read through this lengthy thread from 2005.   

    For those of you who have done this, on the inside of the tank, is this kit all that is really required?:  POR15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit  FYI, I have called numerous radiator shops in my area, and none of them do gas tank work. So, I'm stuck with full DIY on this.

    Also, while I'm doing the work, what else makes sense to do on this 47 year old been-mostly-sitting-for-20-years car?  Go ahead and replace the sending unit, for example?  Vapor tank elimination? That was something I'd not planned to do.

    Thanks.

     

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    I've done the POR15 gas tank kit a couple times now, just follow the instructions to a T. Clean as you can it  then a hair dryer running through the tank for an hour until you are sure the inside of the tank is dry.

    I had so much left over that I took a brush and gave the outside of the tank a good coat too.

    Edited by grannyknot
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    A leaf blower in the big hole works good also.

    You can still get, or at least 3 years ago, a new sending unit from your local dealership. I have p/n and you definitely need that when you call them. My guy usually gets parts the next morning.

    I found a helpful thread or whatever from woodworkerb.com

    http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

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    Yep, don't cut any corners when doing the POR 15 and it will do fine.  Also be sure to let it cure about a week like in the instructions.  Cleaning the tank before is essential. Depending on condition, some people use Muriatic acid (diluted) and then Phosphoric acid. Muratic acid tends to flash rust almost immediately so be sure to neutralize after with baking soda if you do.  I can't think of any advantage of removing the vapor tank.  If the sending unit is non functional, replace it, otherwise just clean it up by soaking it in CLR.

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    Thanks. I read that woodworkerb.com article last week, then couldn't find it again. I like his tip on the homemade "wrench" for removing the sending unit.

    While I'm doing this, have any of you found a good method of cleaning out the metal fuel lines? I have no leaks, but I'm sure they've got some build up. Some threads mentioned a varnish build up over time. 

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    I pushed a length of string trimmer line through the metal gas line with a length of kitchen cord taped to it, then put aside the trimmer line and tie a piece of rag onto the end of the cord, spray the rag down with brake cleaner and pull it through, you won't believe what comes out.  If the cord breaks and the rag gets stuck heat the gas line from outside until the rag burns up and blow the ashes out with compressed air then start over, you will want to do it a couple of times.

    This is all just a feel good exercise but it does clean some crap out.

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    I was thinking of spraying break cleaner from the engine bay on down to the back end the length of the metal line while plugging the other end to let it sit in there. Then blast it out with air compressor, rinse, repeat. I may try your method but with a small pipe brush.

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    I used a .22 caliber wire barrel brush from my gun cleaning kit. 5/16" on my 280. Worked good for me but was nerve wracking the way I tied it with picture hanging twisted wire.

    Maybe I wouldn't do it again on second thought. LOL

    20200509_192550.jpg

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    I went through this about a year ago. I was going to do it myself but I changed my mind and had it done professionally after meeting a guy who was doing it himself.and I’m glad I did. This guy put BB’s in the tank to break up the rust and could never get them all out: he has to cut the tank open to get them out and used that hole to put the POR in. It looked like a mess and environmental disaster. I took it to a shop that did work on Big rigs in Memphis. They had a hot tank and did an acid bath and then treated the inside with a red coating. He said it would last longer than anything on the market. The tank came looking brand new inside and out. Total cost was $320. Pricey but I wanted it done right and put it behind me. Wish I took before pics to show you how good of a job they did.

    b46adb705692513c63aed9f48c5b1763.jpg
    06a9e5f45d5e634f3b2db32a972db165.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Very nice. I am going to try some radiator shops in Natchez. Had no luck in Baton Rouge area. Memphis is about 6 hour drive for me. What shop is it? I am mainly looking for a price for them to do the inside.

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    I could tell you the way I've done 2 so far with Red-kote. Cost $50 a few years ago. Muratic acid, redkote, baking soda, 5 gallons buckets and about a month to completely cure. That could be cut down to a week if you keep it in sunlight.

    Read over these instructions and see if you may want to try it. I can find my post from back then and let decide. It's easy but time sensutive and yoy have to get your "ducks" in a row. $$$ was my decider.

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    4 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

    I was going to do it myself but I changed my mind and had it done professionally after meeting a guy who was doing it himself.and I’m glad I did. This guy put BB’s in the tank to break up the rust and could never get them all out: .

    BBs sounds like asking for trouble. I was going to go with a cluster of smooth stones at the most. Not even sure if the POR15 process really needs it, but I'll see.  I think the kit comes in early this week. I'll let y'all know how it goes. 

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    That's hilarious. I'm going to go out on a limb and say his 3-wheeler uses a little oil.  

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    The place is called Commercial Radiator.

    1584 2 Pl, Memphis, TN 38116

    901-377-8080


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Blue, 240260280, Hoover whichinever found that one. He's good at that type goofing off type work. LOL

    Edit: when he has goof off time! Damn snow and a job! Urgh...

     

    Edited by siteunseen

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    I love how he didn't bother plugging all the holes. Just let the rocks, gas, and rust fly out. 

    That's a lot more attention than I'd ever give a Chevy Astro.

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     I saw a similar method a while back that consisted of a gas tank duck taped to the opening of a concrete mixer. That fellow used spare nuts and bolts (noting the quantities) for the abrasive material.

    Edited by Mark Maras

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    How about a heavy chain?

    There are too many nooks and crannies I think for a chain. If you use nuts just make sure you count them so you know if you have left any behind.

    I would find a local radiator shop to tank it and then you can coat it yourself with POR-15. The EPA has been putting the smack down on radiator shops at least that’s what the guy in Memphis told me. They’re getting harder to find.


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    I've seen marbles used.  You could probably use gravel also.  Crushed 1/2" minus might be about right.  It will pack well in your driveway or sidewalk also, afterward.

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