Zed Head

You've left out the connections between some good details. When did you measure voltage to the pump and where did you measure it? And how? When you say "no fuel to the engine" do you mean the fuel filter or the injector rail or the injectors not opening? Sounds like you're convinced that the fuel pump is not getting power but it's not clear. The simplest way to check your issue is to disconnect the small yellow wire from the starter solenoid then turn the key to Start. The fuel pump should run but the engine will not crank. Usually you can hear the pump run from the driver's seat. You can do this to measure fuel pressure and flow also. Also, how long have you had the car? And when did it last run? Check your fusible links. Use a meter and make sure everything has power that should.

Better watch what he touches and don't shake his hand. He's a super-spreader. Good luck. It sounds like a nasty disease to get even if you survive it. Worse than the flu.

Here's a good summary of hospitalization. Maybe they'll keep it updated. https://www.axios.com/state-by-state-coronavirus-hospitalizations-04da87ed-476e-4dad-84ec-bd5db7a7bce7.html

CourtesyParts.com was the same way. But they seem to have drifted away from supporting the older cars. They modified their web site and lost a lot. I think that there were just a couple of guys running the show there and they got pushed aside. If you can find the part number it always pays to check your local dealer first. Success depends on how good the parts department there is. It varies. https://www.courtesyparts.com/

Disclaimer - the following could be and probably is affected by the increase in testing. Still, it's what governments use to make decisions. Hospitalizations are probably more telling. This site is still worth watching for those who want to project forward to where their region is probably going. The media focuses on the latest drama, but you can see that there are places with a constant increase in infections. And places that are fairly leveled out. I'm in a level place so things haven't shut down too badly even though there are "stay at home" directives. Our governor gives the typical conflicting guidance, opening state parks on the same day that he extends "stay at home". Doesn't address the inconsistency. The only rational explanation is that he wants people from other states to come in and enjoy the state parks while the residents stay home. Anyway, just some nonsense. Check your state. https://covid-19.mdmetrix.com/grid.html?list=new_case_curve

The monkey-motion is shown in carpartsmanual. Looks like it has a bigger o-ring. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/4-speed/to-aug-71

Spend a little more time on determining if the clock keeps correct time. Six seconds is kind of in a big hurry. Joking. I remember when remembering to wind your wrist watch, or keep a fresh battery in it was important. If your wrist watch died you had to hope it was a sunny day so that you could estimate time of day by position of the sun. Now I'm surrounded by LED's and devices that all show a time. Microwave oven, convection oven, two phones, a computer, various channels on the TV, my other vehicle. I don't even wear a wrist watch anymore.

Just a less wordy follow-up. I remember that the hole for the bracket is kind of tucked up under the lip of the hood seal. I'll bet a PO made a new, lower, hole for the failed bracket.

Thanks. The other part of the question is how does the guy with the channel benefit? Why are they asking people to subscribe? You can see the number of views on the page.

Wow. I wonder if there's burnt oil on the inside of the valve cover. Must have got hot. That kit looks about like the top bracket I had on mine. Any chance that there's another hole in the firewall for the slotted tang to fit over? That would determine your upper limit. Maybe the tray is thicker than stock. I'm going to guess that that's the issue. The tray is probably sourced from a non-Nissan supplier. Find a thinner tray. Actually, if the bracket fits the correct hole in the firewall then your only major adjustment is the tray. The top position is fine-tuning within the length of the slot. If the battery sits on the tray and you can close the hood without interference, then the firewall hole seems like the fix. You might check the tray first, because the top bracket looks right.

Just curious. I've been watching a few different youtube channels and the producers of the channel often ask viewers to click the subscribe button. But I don't understand what happens when a person "subscribes". So, what happens? Why is it important?

I think we need a picture or two, at least the first one for sure, and maybe some details on where you bought this "kit". I've not really seen your problem before so maybe there's simple solution. But I really want to see a battery welded to a valve cover. Please.

Replace it.

You need more ohms. You could put another potentiometer of the same type in series. Or find one that has higher resistance at the top end. Or add a resistor to the circuit and use the potentiometer for tuning. Old radios use them for volume control. If you have any laying around you could scavenge. At least you have a path to explore. Might at least show the potential of something like Megasquirt.

Keep turning the knob until it takes off like it should. You should be able to make things so rich that the engine won't run, you can flood it. Then go back and do something else to try to get the idle leaned out. That's the game, tuning the untuneable EFI system. With the aftermarket systems you change things by computer. You'll need to do mechanical and electrical things directly.

The 280Z's have another knob right next to it for the trip-meter. Turning it won't dim the lights.

George's dad died...

Take a picture. Did you turn the knob?

If you didn't bend anything you could always go back to stock bushings. They seem to be available. If you mean the casting when you say "assembly". You''ll be back to where you started but with new rubber. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/57 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bushing-link~55541-e4100.html

If you have a spare distributor and an ignition module (unless it's a points distributor), and a coil and a terminal wire and a battery, you could make your own tester. Spin the distributor, make sparks, watch the tach. Wish I had parts, it would be fun.

What do you mean by "redo"? I like to use carpartsmanual to see if part numbers changed. Looks like the control arms, AKA transverse links, changed in august 1973. Not clear what the change was though. The axles changed in the cast hubs, somewhere in 73 for the 74 model year, but it looks there were a bunch more changes along the way. Part #1 and 2. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension

I wasn't joking here. 2200 ohms is a lot of resistance. If the tachometer circuit already has resistance there's no reason to add it in-line. Unless it's for flyback(?) blocking, from the coil discharge. I'm going to guess that without the resistance in the circuit either the tach won't work or the ignition system. Could you measure the resistance through the connection at the tach to ground? That might offer a clue. It's probably in the schematic but in the meantime. I'm not an electrical engineer, I'm just trying to figure things out.

My comment was just from the basics of Venturi and Bernoulli. Where did your pasted picture come from? Actually, there's a balance between air velocity and pressure and needle position (effective orifice size). That's where things get messy. As I understand things the oil controls the rate of piston movement, the speed, but not the steady state. In other words a thick oil and a thin oil should put the piston in the same place at steady RPM. I'm no carb expert but a set of stock carbs might be a good starting point just to see how the combination of engine parts work. Then go to the "upgraded" carbs. You don't really know what has been done to the ones you have.

Round port should work fine on a P79 head. The P79 and the N47 both have exhaust liners that are smaller than the hole in the head casting. It's the liner opening that needs to match and it's round. The liners are designed to get really hot and burn off carbon and, maybe, excess fuel and oil. Keeps the exhaust system, and the exhaust cleaner. The first picture in this link shows the port. You can see the liner in it. http://xenonzcar.com/s130/Heads.html