Zed Head

I think that if you did a poll, asking who would just buy the parts store cylinders and make them work, versus the extra $200 per side to be 100% correct, most of us would say head to OReilly and save. Worst case, you get a leaker but get it replaced for free.

Some of your troubleshooting doesn't make sense. If there's no signal from the ZX distributor then how can it run with just the ZX distributor? Coils can overheat. The fact that it runs with just the 280ZX distributor shows that the problem is caused by the MSD unit. I'd take it out and drive it using just the 280ZX distributor. At high RPM the coil should see the same load that it does with the MSD. MSD only does multi-spark at lower RPM. Run at high RPM and see if the problem happens again.

The thread doesn't really directly answer the question of "will 1972 (cheap) wheel cylinders work on a 71 (expensive) car?" I think that that's the real question, and if I process the responses it seems that the answer is yes. Are you just trying to get your car back on the road, inexpensively, or are you doing a restoration? You asked about value but value depends on what the goal is. And you're asking about what will "work" but it's still not clear if you're okay with bending the lines. These should work, below, if you bend the lines, I think. And you can buy prefitted line at the store so you don't have to flare your own. Sometimes we get so caught up in the internet we forget about the parts store down the road. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/wheel-cylinder-11318/5020ef8206ed/1972/nissan/240z?q=wheel+cylinder

Another good animation of the smoke travel.

Not the "tune' files, the actual "what happened" files. Here's some Megasquirt examples, below. Haltech should have the same ability. Just because you told the ECU to do something doesn't mean it actually happened. Plus, the quality of the trigger signal and it's timing should be there. You might already have data from when the engine ran, stored somewhere. Just another option. It's looking like Plug 'n' Play isn't playing. Which Haltech system are you using? 133 pages is too many to look back through. Megasquirt also has a signal simulator that can be used to verify outputs are following inputs like they should. I'm not recommending Megasquirt just saying that a company like Haltech should have similar. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/jimstim-1-5-megasquirt-stimulator-w-wheel-simulator-assembled/ https://www.efianalytics.com/MegaLogViewer/

Don't you have data acquisition files that show you everything that happened? Injector opening, spark, trigger, throttle blade, etc.? Usually you can pull up a segment of time from a run and see all of the inputs and outputs on one or two screens. It's geeky computer nerd electronics stuff but there's information there. The L28 will run on three cylinders just fine. https://www.haltech.com/downloads/software/

Getting close. I searched Datsn brake parts, and now am getting various other brnad brake parts. At least they're interesting. Used to drive an old 1964 International Harvester truck. It was a beast.

They're back. This is a lot of ads. Not even close to my interests.

You'd have to know where they were manufactured, to be sure. Not where they're sold.

The internet is now monitoring my stress level and advising therapeutics through Google AdSense, apparently.

That is definitely not where I saw him.

It wasn't you. The person monitoring your internet usage hit the wrong button...

Something similar. Even if you don't "join" the network, or officially connect, the network has still identified your phone as being in its range. https://www.shopify.com/retail/wifi-marketing-what-it-is-and-how-retailers-can-use-it

That could be from the "location" function on your friends phone. Or it might be that your friends phone identified your Wifi signal, or Bluetooth. Or just triangulated cell towers and matched with your Contacts. All of these things happen, all the time. I've had the feeling that ads show up after I stop at a store front and look at what's inside. But that could just be a recency effect. Like seeing 240Z's everywhere after you buy your own 240Z. I'm not trying to avoid, just making an observation. The ads in the middle of the page is from Mike's ad settings though. He might have missed the setting for Replies maybe, that's where they showed up. None here now though. I just saw Edward Snowden on the news the other day.

They probably should have used a shorter shock and a standoff, of smaller diameter, at the bottom.

The engineers in 1971 probably would not even have set a spec on the bottom inside corner of the tube. There was no need, there was no part that needed to fit there with the original application. That's my logic on why some have a problem and some don't. The variation is great, because there was no measurement spec. But, you're right that Koni should have considered that fact when they produced a part for old 240Z's. Somehow they overlooked it, and, apparently, assumed that they would all be "the same". They messed up. Surprised though, that they gave up on you. That's not good. My other logic is that griping at Koni isn't going to get the part in to the tube. That's why I offered the Nissan gland nut solution.

My first jack stands were made of wood. Douglas fir, to be exact.

I was just offering another way to get the Konis to work. They already told you that you're on your own. What can you do? So, for the record, this is for the 9/71 240Z in your sig? Maybe the 240Z's just had a lot of variation in parts. Nobody would have paid much attention to the bottom inside of the tube since it was only meant to hold oil. Never meant to seat a shock/insert.

I remember trying to find an illustration for the diff mount and the transmission mount. The best I could do was to assume that the mounts go in with the sloped side facing forward. Like a snow plow or a wedge. I only found one picture that showed that and had to rationalize that the diff mount would be the same. It seemed to make sense when I was actually looking at the parts before installing. Here is the only picture that seems to illustrate that, from 1976. Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear insulator.

The spendy ones are probably what you need for car show judging if you want to get maximum points. But as site said, you can make the inexpensive ones work just fine. Just bend your own lines. It's actually pretty easy, and you can buy pre-fitted lines at the parts store if you need them.

When I swapped my original oil for inserts I messed around with trying to make the aluminum Nissan gland nuts work. Mainly because they looked cool and I wasn't clear at the time about how the gland nut worked. I bought some thick o-rings to place inside the Nissan gland nut to center the shock and I think that it would have worked, after clamping the nut down. But then I figured that the steel KYB nut was the better choice. Point - maybe you can make the Nissan nut work buy adding material, a spacer/centering ring, instead of removing material from the Koni nut.

Could be that your damper pulley has slipped. I assume that the engine runs and you are adjusting timing on the running engine. And that your timing light is connected to the front, #1, cylinder. Does the engine run well? You could remove the distributor lockdown screw and keep turning the distributor if you think that it runs better the farther you turn it. Idle speed will increase as you advance the timing, typically, if you're in the range of 0 to 20 advance. Might just be the old oil pump drive shaft alignment problem. Forgot to ask also, is it the original points distributor?

Sounds like a 77 or 78 engine. Is it a 4 speed, 5 speed, or automatic? Was the car a coupe or a 2+2? The propeller shaft lengths will be different between those two. The extras for the engine are where a lot of value could be. ECU, AFM, alternator, ignition module, distributor, injectors, fuel rail, FPR, throttle body, BCDD, manifolds, EFI relay, etc. See if you can get a list of the extras and their condition. If the seller has been selling off parts piecemeal, the engine might just be bare-bones and expensive to put back together. But if it is complete it will probably add up to a good package deal. If the engine was running when it got hit and the guy stored it in a dry garage it wouldn't be a surprise if it cranked right up and ran after some simple work. You don't have a location shown so hard to guess about the weather there.

Few more places to get updates. Things are getting better, I can't stare at the sun anymore. https://twitter.com/NWSSeattle https://twitter.com/NWSPortland https://twitter.com/NWSSacramento

It's burned in to my brain since the time I forgot to drain the fluid when I was helping a friend change his clutch. He thought I knew what I was doing until the fluid started pouring out on to me when I pulled the drive shaft. It was a 68 Firebird but they're all similar.