Zed Head

Apparently, the product is a knockoff? So, the usual questions about quality apply. And liability, for people who think a little deeper. In the States, everything revolves around lawsuits. All damages can be quantified in to a dollar figure. So, the question would be "who pays if the wheel fails"? Buying from a small company means shallow pockets. Something to consider. There is apparently little regulation of automotive wheels in the US market. I was surprised. Tiny parts like brake hoses need an "off road use only" label, but not rims. Caveat emptor. I might have missed something but it looks like the tests and certifications that are out there are not to pass requirements for sale but to minimize liability. It's weird that anybody can come up with a wheel design, make it, and sell it, with no testing or qualification required. Why aren't there more accidents? A sampling of Google stuff - https://www.sema.org/federal-regulation-aftermarket-parts?__utma=95790915.1630008249.1600708277.1600708289.1600708289.1&__utmb=95790915.0.10.1600708289&__utmc=95790915&__utmx=-&__utmz=95790915.1600708289.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=(not provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=235755721#Tires-Wheels https://www.sae.org/learn/content/c0102/ https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j3010_202002/?_ga=2.120073344.986013974.1600708173-681642261.1600708172 http://us-mags.com/us-mag-warranty-p-22.html https://www.tsw.com/

What's an SME? Swapping a turbo engine in is more complicated than it seems. It's an EFI engine so you'll need all of the electronics and wiring and injectors and other odd electrical parts, plus you have to be good with electrical troubleshooting, because of the age of the parts. Or you can get an aftermarket EFI system, but still, electrical knowledge is needed. It's a different world from carbs. And, as site's sites shows, the turbo 5 speed is not a bolt-in swap, like the NA 5 speeds are. It needs a crossmember and a different propeller shaft (length). More cost, more work.

He buys parts, marks up the price, and resells them. Might as well bypass him for a starter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter-fits-Nissan-280Z-280ZX-78-83-Maxima-81-84-200SX-77-79-810-78-81/164392873832?fits=Model%3A280ZX&hash=item2646942f68:g:L4wAAOSwPZxfZ6oB:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!98115!US!-1

The cam lobes are the part that usually gets damaged after a rebuild, on these engines for sure, and others. Usually it's recommended to let it sit at about 1500-2000 RPM for 20 minutes to let the lobes and pads wear in with good lubrication. You guys compressed 20 minutes at 1500-2000 down to about three at 3000-4000 it looks like but it's probably fine. p.s. it does sound good though... p.s. #2 it's not going to rust over a week with just water in it. Actually, if you fill it with water you might find some leaks by next weekend. It's not the water that causes rust it's the oxygen in the air. So, filled with water would be no big deal unless you get a freeze in Sherman Oaks. https://www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Camshaft-Break-In-Proced-Rev4-12-07.pdf

Might be that the other part numbers will fit but there are minor differences. Who knows. Really though, a 280ZX gear reduction starter is the way to go. Smaller and less drain on the battery. https://proampusa.com/UnitSearch.aspx?A1=1982-Nissan-280Z @ 280ZX-2.8L-Starter

These seem to be the right numbers for a 240Z. https://proampusa.com/UnitSearch.aspx?A1=1972-Nissan-240Z-2.4L-Starter and here is the 16711 number. https://www.proampusa.com/PartDetails.aspx?OS1=Y&IDNum=20408

eBay says that that is a 200SX starter and wil not fit your L24 engine https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Motor-Quality-Built-16711-Reman/224116967604?fits=Model%3A200SX|Make%3ADatsun&epid=75498341&hash=item342e6988b4:g:CsgAAOSwiwFcpsxh

You need a shift lever. The corrosion around the drain hole is not a big deal. Maybe some road salt got in there and caused corrosion over the years. It shouldn't get bigger once you clean things up.

Can you tell which corner has the air in it? See bubbles come out of the tube? Hate to bring i up but you might have damaged the seal on that piston and it's sucking air. Just a big Maybe to check for. Big MAYBE, don't know, hope it's not, but it could be. Beside that you probably drew a lot of air in to that cylinder when the piston was unseated. Spend a lot of extra time purging that one. Tap on the lines, fittings, and cylinder to break any small bubbles free. The fronts are where a lot of air can hang out. Did you do any work up there? Bleed screws up... Brakes are the biggest pain on these cars, I think. Since you had the master cylinder off there could be air working its way through from there, through the NP valve, and the pressure imbalance warning switch, and the various junctions. Just a lot of little spots for a bubble to hang up. I put speed bleeders on the backs so that I could push a lot of fluid through quickly. Many people like the speed bleeders. They help.

"Shoes". The retainer will pop off with a thin screwdriver or a pick or needle nose pliers, I think. It kind of depends on what you can see when you peel the boot back. Take it a step at a time and see how far you get. You might be able to pull the shoe back enough to reposition the piston. Good luck.

That movie is way too big to download easily. Lower the resolution or just make it shorter. It was 520 MB. Took a few minutes and I have decent internet speed. I saw it get up to 40 psi but it should have been higher. Could be the oil pump but the other reason for low pressure is low resistance to flow from worn parts, like crankshaft bearings. But an oil pump change is worth a shot, to start. Turbo pumps are high volume pumps, to make up for the oil diverted to the turbo. You shouldn't really need it. You might just drop the one you have and check it. There are specs in the FSM. Take pictures if you find ravaged parts. Entertainment for the audience.

Pop the rubber boot off so that you can see the piston. It might just be cocked. The boot is just a dust seal, the cylinder would actually work without it. But it's obstructing your view for now. Open the bleed valve and manipulate the piston until it slides in like it should.

It's adjustable. I'd guess the 40 was a mid-range point or something. So, you want the aluminum fuel rail and you're wondering which FPR to get? You can use the stock FPR with the aluminum rail. Doesn't look as nice but it works. If you do get an adjustable FPR be aware that most of them leak pressure down rapidly once the pump turns off. So restarts typically take longer than desirable.

I'd only do the spots that might come loose, like the corners and the ends. Maybe even use none, then lock it down later if needed. If you find that one of them is a problem you'll have to remove all of the goop that you just laid down.

Are you saying that you need to use an adjustable FPR because you can't find a 36 psi FPR? Not clear. Most setpoint FPR's are 2.5 or 3.0 bar. 36.3 or 43.5 psi. And you can use an adjustable FPR on the stock rail.

These cars did not get any protective coating on the metal before priming and painting. That's why almost all of them have rust spots and bubbled paint, underneath what appears to be undamaged paint. Today's cars get a protective coating and are "electrocoated" so that every piece of metal is covered. http://www.ppgecoat.com/Markets-Applications/Automotive.aspx

Don't the lacquers used on these cars come off with a heat gun and a scraper? Just asking. Might work away from heat sensitive materials. Some of the aggressive paint stripper chemicals are still available in pure form, at hardware stores. MEK, maybe methylene chloride (that's the good one).

If you're running 310 cc injectors then the open time for idle is very short. You might have a sticky injector or just be on the edge of control. So, making it richer might get you to where 5 run rich and one runs right. But it might show you something. I said increase injector open time but on your settings it might be something else. Whatever setting adds fuel. You could even just increase fuel pressure as a test. p.s. the popping might be from enough fuel getting sucked over to the dead cylinder to make it pop. You might just have a dead injector. The noid light shows that injector got current but not that it actually opened. With 310 cc, open time is going to be a tiny faction of a second at idle. The more I ponder, the more it seems like a stuck injector. Just a view. p.s. 2 - are you sure that fuel pressure is maintained after it starts? It really should have kept running, on 5.

Sounds like it's running on 5 and the dead/bad cylinder has a stuck valve or something. Or it's running on 5 and it's running lean, and the weak cylinder doesn't have enough to keep firing, just an occasional kickback. What happens if you increase injector open duration to make sure you have enough fuel? These engines love their rich mixtures you know. That video was about perfect. It played, it was small (quick download) and it showed some stuff.

I wonder where the Japan part comes in. Maybe there was a Japan division way back in the past. Looks like all American stuff now. https://www.high-performance-engines.com/AboutUs.asp Edit - here's the base, "normal performance", company. They do Japanese products. https://atkvege.com/products/ They say they sell rebuilt (reman) Z engines. https://atkvege.com/products/ http://atkvege.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2018/12/engine2016.pdf

Driving while fatigued. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/sep/17/canada-tesla-driver-alberta-highway-speeding

I didn't even know that Facebook had a marketplace. Thanks for the learning. Now they can track what we buy and browse for also.

Looks like the engine is not matching numbers. And...sunroof. What's an ATK 5 speed? Early 1970 240z HLS- 30 00663 while towing the car I damaged the left front radiator support and the inner fender panel. The car has an ATK 5 speed transmission I also have a replacement front inner structure from the firewall forward off a car with s/n under 1000. Here is a chance to get a very low S/N 240z to restore, very hard to find one with this low S/N . The rocker panels are decent the floors are in dire need of replacement as well as the floor support frame rails, The rear 1/4 panels have some repairable rust, the rear taillight panel needs the tray and the car needs a roof panel, this is a total restoration project but a very worth while project don't miss this rare car .The car has an E88 head, header, ATK 5 speed will need complete interior

Some of us just become very good (quick anyway) at taking things apart and putting them back together again. You could take the piecemeal route. Start putting things together, make a running car, then fix the stuff that needs fixing. Everything that you're planning will have delays associated, the farther you go the more there will be. Many of your parts are going to be rusted and/or corroded, like probably all of the hydraulic systems. The electrical is going to be difficult. Drive train probably has missing parts that you'll need to source. Won't know until you're putting it together.

There's always the "check your grounds" advice. Grounds might be the most overlooked problem in electrical troubleshooting. Some ignition modules ground through the mounting points.