Zed Head

Sweet. Your mechanical pump should handle the load just fine, alone. The electric pumps were added for other reasons, associated with heat problems.

~2000 deaths per day is where things are leveling out. You can look at trends of individual states but the sum of all states is still high. These "free the people" protesters are just super-spreaders. It's a shame that they probably don't understand irony. https://www.mdmetrix.com/covid-19-projections

Unsprung weight would be affected. Not much, but still.

They don't look terrible. Get the right pads and you'll probably be fine. Looks like the valve stem heights are uneven too so you'll probably need to do each one individually. Tedious. The other guys know more, that's what I see though, and it fits your ticking noises. Several lobes are at then end of the wear pad. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2041A

How do the cam lobes look? Looks like the PO used the wrong lash pads. Maybe put a new cam in and used the old rocker arms and pads. Tthat's probably where the clicking came from, as the lobes slipped off the ends of the rocker arms. So, yes, bad news. Maybe not terrible though.

Very nice. Bosch might be even better quality than Nissan, if they're old stock. I don't have any evidence, it just seems that way. Hopefully they were stored well. Is your guy going to test them before installing? Motor Man gets some bonus points. https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/web_page.html

He seems to be learnable. The polls probably showed a drop.

I found a new comic. https://www.gocomics.com/nonsequitur/2020/04/29

That's what the last part was about. But, there's no guarantee that "new" is good. In short though, you're losing fuel pressure somewhere. You need to get it back to where it should be. The EFI system depends on proper fuel pressure to work correctly. It's critical. There's no pressure feedback signal to the EFI control unit. The FPR and fuel pump are what control fuel pressure, and the ECU"assumes" that it is controlled.

You're in the small vacuum leak zone now. If you have some they'll keep the idle speed up. Try to find some and block them.

Are they Nissan brand? I had a set of old rusty 1978 Nissan injectors that were perfectly balanced on my home-made tester and worked fine. I'd use old Nissan over new aftermarket. Who is SASSZ?

I don't think that there is any aftermarket brand that is outstanding these days. zcarsource seems overpriced. I'd add up the cost of clamps and seals, and think about getting seals at OReilly if you want to save a few bucks. This is more of a spreadsheet and convenience calculation, I think. Don't be surprised if they are out of stock and delayed by months. COVID19. Might make your choice for you.

There are different brands out there. Maybe try another brand. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323902906354

That picture is from the zcardepot site, to be clear. Had to click around to find it and was surprised that he didn't show the lowering springs. He has to know that that's what everyone wants to see. We've all seen the stock height.

Post the links to the injectors and people can tell you about them. Some of these companies just take common injectors, like available on Rockauto or from OReillyAuto and add a markup. The Standard brand injectors seem to get good reviews. I had BWD brand for a while and they were good but I think they might be discontinued now. Injectors don't typically foul up if they're used often. How do you know? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

Maybe he has a picture of the springs on a lowered car. I assume that they've been tested. He has the stock height on his page. 2" is quite a bit, that pretty much closes the gap over the tire. @zcardepot.com

Sounds like the fuel pump is dying. They've been known to die by overheating, the longer they run the worse it gets until they can't build pressure. You should never lose pressure under load, that's when pressure goes to its maximum. The cutting/stalling is typical of running lean, which is what will happen when you lose fuel pressure. All signs point to the pump, since you've cleared the path to the fuel rail. OR - there's junk in the tank clogging the pump inlet. 20 years is a lot of time for rust and old gas gunk to build up.

Might as well measure continuity to ground on the ground side of the points also. If the distributor has lost its ground then the points won't work. I'm just a big fan of measurements.

Just turn the key on, and turn the engine and/or the breaker plate to a position where you can close and open the points by twisting the distributor shaft. As the points open or close you'll see a small spark across the point gap. You can also measure voltage at the points to be sure your connections are good. With the points open you should see battery voltage on one side and continuity to ground on the other side. It's just another way to get in to the basics of how the system works.

You're welcome. Here's another one from Australia. It's just a cartoon. Usually the guy does soccer themes but sometimes he branches out. I hope that nobody is offended. It's just a cartoon. https://www.theguardian.com/football/ng-interactive/2020/apr/23/david-squires-on-donald-trump-boris-johnson-and-a-turd-rolled-in-glitter

With the key on you can actually see a small spark at the points by opening and closing them. That's a good starting point. People often jump straight to spark plugs or coil wires but the first spark is actually at the points. If you get spark at the points then that means the coil should be producing a voltage. Tthen you can go to the main coil wire, then the cap and spark plug wire terminals. That's my method, follow the path... If you have a meter you can measure voltage at several spots to see where it's not making it through.

I had thought that Pence was actually a guy who "got it" but just couldn't really do anything. In the early days I had wished that he was in charge instead of the other guy. But now I see that he's just part of that crowd. Just a politician.

Found this on the TheGuardian.com. He sounds like a 25 year old Australian but looks like a 14 year old Australian except for the tattoos and piercings. I don't really know what an Australian looks like I just guessed from the accent. Might be New Zealand. Anyway, it's a cooking video. p.s. NSFW

If only there was somebody, a group or organization, that could identify the differences between the various regions of the country, and create a plan to coordinate opening them all, with, also, the authority and the means to implement the plan. Too bad that doesn't exist...

Thanks zKars. I had that worry. It was a lot of worry. Mine was a 76 and not much rust, a PO must have used the old bicep torque wrench on it. One of them still spun. I think I grabbed the end with some pliers to get the nut moving and managed to work it off. It was an unexpected pain.