Zed Head

I think it would have all been black if it came from inside. Could also be stuff that was on top of the heat shield under the intake manifold, if it's still on or some other ledge area that could collect crud.

There a lot of people making headers for theL6 but none of them are very impressive. Looks like a person would buy something close then do some grinding and maybe some filling to get them right. There's a whole separate eBay page for them. Many of these cheap headers rust out at the intersection of the tubes or are never completely welded up from the beginning. Plus, look at the cuts on the flange. Terrible. Looks like the center ports aren't even centered over the mounting holes. https://www.ebay.com/b/Exhaust-Manifolds-Headers-for-Datsun-240Z/33632/bn_20176001 https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Racing-3-2-1-Long-Tube-Header-For-1969-1983-Datsun-240-260-280Z-ZX/133176095712?fits=Model%3A240Z|Make%3ADatsun&hash=item1f01e9f3e0:g:ajcAAOSwkydfYS69

There's a very similar discussion going on in another thread. Kind of confusing though, about what parts are being discussed and where they came from. Those ZCD headers don't have matching ports. Four round, two square. You want the ports to match the exhaust ports on the heads.

Is your picture from eBay or is it from ZCarDepot? You didn't provide an eBay link. https://zcardepot.com/collections/exhaust/products/header-exhaust-ceramic-coated-240z-260z-280z-70-76

About the bed of the truck? Looks like old oil and sand/gravel/nut shells. Old oil is generally dark like that.

The one that you have looks like it has the thick flange and is the square port that you want. The raised edge on the inside will actually create more sealing pressure, it's not necessarily a bad thing, if it's straight and even all the way around each port. I'd take it to a speed shop and see what they think. A bit of hammer work and a twist, followed by a surface grind might get it where you want it for not much. Make sure you get a quote first though, sometimes those guys will keep working til it's done and charge you by the hour. Or, there's this. https://datsunspirit.com/shop/hand-made-6-1-true-equal-length-stainless-steel-header-with-merge-collector/

The auto parts stores are all used to accepting returned reman parts. Just take it back and ask if you can look at the other units that they have in stock. You'll probably find one that looks right and they'll just swap it, no problem. Defective reman parts is normal.

So many. Hard to keep up. Burgundy 72, classy, looks very original and rust-free. The owner like Ford blue. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-166/

The guy had dreams... I already have well over my asking price in this car. Once restored, it may well be worth between $50k and $75k.

Actually, yours is a bit different. Still, wide audience. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-143/

Put it up on BAT with a wicked driving video. That last race car did pretty well on there. It was about like yours. I'll see if I can find the post.

Good luck. Funny that you don't own any Fords.

BAT shipping. Interesting. Free quotes. https://bringatrailer.com/shipping/

Must be nobody looking because this is - first! - a classic sign of a missing reaction disc. A rubber disc between the rod and the booster surface that sometimes falls out and ends up in the bottom of the booster. Search "reaction disc" and you'll find a bunch.

Looks like it could be driven. Edit - actually the words say that. It looks like it's ready for the wrecking yard. 1983 Datsun 280zx Turbo. Car runs well and transmission shifts perfect. It has had some aftermarket parts installed like blow off valve, turbo timer and valve controller. Would be great to fix up as it is an all original car. Has usual rust from being parked for years before I purchased it. Has a clean title. Looking to sale cash only no PayPal!

I was thinking about a turbo engine for a while and realized that the J pipe and the ECCS control system and the P90 head is all that a 280ZX turbo car offered. If you decide to go with Haltech or Megasquirt, then all you need is the J pipe. You don't need a P90 head but it's more desirable. All of the other parts can be cobbled together from NA engines or aftermarket. You can get an N42 head to avoid the liners. So that long block for $1800 really just offers the P90 head (no exhaust liners). The other turbo stuff is missing, and the short block is nothing special.

The red 71 with the L26 and the sun roof is up today. Really weird how people don't knowhow to create and post a video, or how the "I can assure you" phrase has absolutely no value. Sold for $29,750. Bet it could have got more with a video and confirmation that the sun roof worked. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-167/ "I do not have any video to offer at this time, however, I can confidently say it starts easily, idles well and has been easily driven on both city streets as well as freeways since I decided to part with it."

"Machined" suggests that there will be no raised lip. Many headers out there for the L engines have a flange that is thinner than the intake manifold flange. So the yokes don't sit flat and you can have sealing problems. Sounds like MSA has addressed the problems. Those eBay headers look sketchy. Four round and two square, not right.

Hoof > hooves. Actually, it looks like rooves is right. Just don't hear it much. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/roof#:~:text=plural roofs\ ˈrüfs %2C ˈru̇fs also ˈrüvz %2C ˈru̇vz \

The simple orange Z is up today. Pretty basic. Wrong wheels and door guards, but not much else added. No towel bars or over riders or sun roofs. (why is this not rooves? Leaf > leaves...). Sold for $38,250. Simple is good. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-161/

And, to replace it, a towel bar 71 with a trailer hitch, and mag wheels. Should be interesting. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-166/

Today's entertainment. Actually sold, over riders in the back, not original, not a 71, for $26,750. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-151/

If it "ran when parked" best to just get it running again first, with what's on there. You'll know that what you have should work. If you swap parts before you start you'll be starting from unknown. https://www.amazon.com/Empi-Master-Rebuild-Dune-Buggy/dp/B00FB7ZFM0 Study up on points, and timing, and mechanical fuel pumps.

Most auto parts stores carry them. General purpose replacements. They don't have to be an exact match.

There might be even more work needed. Here's a thread from another site. Derek is a very very capable mechanic. The impression I get is that the guy at zcardepot has a batch of parts made up and needs to get rid of them before fixing the problems. He seems unresponsive, in general. His business is getting big so he probably doesn't need to be. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131360-rear-disk-kit-from-zcar-depot-anyone-using-it/