Zed Head

FPR's tend to leak down also. It will cause the same extended cranking problem. And non-functioning cold start valves will add some cranks.

19 minutes of bidding and it got to $16,500.

More stuff is coming out of my brain on this topic. It's not uncommon, I remember past discussions. I think that in the past I suggested that a person actually divide the voltage, like you implied, purposely. Run an extra wire around the tach circuit, parallel circuit. Use a potentiometer to tune the current flow. I don't know if it would work but I think that it should. The whole point of using a current limiting ignition module is to get a stronger spark. Using an old high resistance coil to get the tach to work defeats the purpose. p.s. this might be why Nissan went to a voltage spike/kickback (probably the wrong words but figurable) sensing tach for the 280Z electronic ignition instead of current sensing.

I used to just push the front edge of the hood down after closing it. There was play/wear/something going on there.

Clean original 1975 2+2 automatic that I had overlooked is up today. Already doing well. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-22-7/

Thanks for the reminder, I had forgotten how you solved the problem (state-dependent memory maybe). The proper measurement is already here in this thread.

Hey, you got quite a bit of help here. I think we deserve at least a simple word or two about what the problem was. It's how the good forums work. Don't be embarrassed if it was something simple. We've all had those.

Part #7 shows two numbers, but the first is probably the monkey-motion transmission. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/clutch And the lock washer, #8. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/clutch/8

One thing that I had forgotten about that I've seen on other cars, is the height of the pivot ball. We really should have that pivot ball height as a variable in the whole "92 mm" solution. If the pivot ball is short that screws up the whole equation. The washer under the pivot would be a factor too. I seem to recall a lock washer. Here are are some examples. I wonder if there are variations in the Nissan transmissions. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-GM-Bellhousing-Clutch-Fork-Pivot,712.html?sku=5503855&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFG8N4a_JIC8cKxYJpinHOb48MAHr5-x6wb0xJJmKFLVknBKHIUyi_hoCgNgQAvD_BwE https://www.jegs.com/i/Hays/490/84-116/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFNypj6L5trSXEoFY_4KFgt8v37pZIJ7MPtWAlID2eYNIsuk80E8oExoCaGMQAvD_BwE

I have come across what is obviously the true inspiration for the Z car. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-alfa-romeo-giulia-1600-sprint-speciale-3/

I think that the seller is just showing a used 1978 280Z for sale, all warts and defects disclosed. It's not a "matching numbers" "Series X" 240Z.

Posting just to get some key words in this thread. I searched "zkars pressure plate" and nothing came up. It should now.

That's not good. This thread might be interesting.

Not sure why you're responding to me. Digital signals are possible. He said that he didn't think the GM sensor would work but he didn't say why. You've extrapolated quite a bit, from the whole thread. I had one post to work from. Still, an interesting discussion...

Here's an old discussion. The guy had the same two first initials! Solution about post #11. The Pertronix and 123 modules work in a similar way.

Might help, I think there's a clearer version out there somewhere.

Yours has the current sensing tach. I can't remember the details but people have found that fiddling with the white wire loop on the back of the tach can solve those types of problems. I think that CO has even had comment or two about it, but it was years ago. Which 123 are you using. and which coil? I think that the latest ones would pass more current than the old stock setup. Maybe the tach is seeing too much current.

So he's not hiding anything. He just doesn't know that the direct side shot is a good one.

Are we talking about the same car? Not seeing therm. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-86/

There is, or was/were, a kit(s) for swapping in a Chevy engine. But once you drive the L6 you might change your mind. Get it running first and try it out. Nobody has ever said that they wasted their time learning how to use a multimeter. It's a must-have skill for DIY stuff. https://zcardepot.com/collections/ls-v8-swap http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

Mine was much worse. His isn't bad, one small piece. It has the typical gouge marks from the seatbelt latch. Looks like somebody was loading rebar.

Just post on the main forum. You'll get more better ideas. Somewhere out there on the forum is a general guide of things to check before trying to start these old cars. The fuel system needs to be clean and rust free so that the pump and injectors don't get filled with rust and bad fuel. And knowing how to use a multimeter is very important. You'll spend a lot of time just checking electrical things on the EFI systems. Post a picture of the engine for starters. We'll see if there's anything missing or suspect, and can point out other trouble spots, like the distributor. And, after that many years, the clutch and brake hydraulics will probably be shot.

Actually, there is one, just one, that is close. But shots from both sides, straight on, can answer a lot of questions about a car's body work.

The first lines I typically notice on a Z are those around the doors. Everything else needs to be adjusted to fit after those lines are set, I think. You can't adjust the two door jambs. The guy in the 78 BAT listing right above your post might be hiding those lines. None of his pictures are directly from the side. Here is the other 78 from post #556. The gaps are even all the way around the door.

The Indian looks interesting. The Datsun would actually be a Nissan 280ZX. Lots of help here if you want to get it running. These documents will help too. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/