Zed Head

Which side did you check? Check the wire that feeds the link. Looks like a white one. And it connects via a plug that could be disconnected or corroded. Follow the path back to the 15.1 volts. The FSM is available here on the forum also. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

I've been wondering also about how two vaccines with such high efficacy could be developed so quickly. And it's not clear if there are side effects. If you lower the bar to "no deaths" then passing is easy. Let's see who steps up to get the first shots. https://www.statnews.com/2020/11/16/modernas-covid-19-vaccine-is-strongly-effective-early-look-at-data-show/ What ever happened to the Russian vaccine? https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-020-03209-0

I wonder what the billionaires are spending their money on, besides sending large phallus-shaped objects to the moon. Here's someone from your general region of the country to be proud of. Look up... Send a letter to Nick Saban. He has money. Shame him with Dolly Parton's example. https://www.theguardian.com/music/2020/nov/17/dolly-parton-partly-funded-moderna-covid-vaccine-research https://sports.usatoday.com/ncaa/salaries/

You can run an extra ground wire also. I had a couple on my car. You don't know what's happening along the length of the wire whose end you are cleaning. Run a new wire, confirm good ground, see if the problem is fixed.

You should post up the dimensions. Looks like something a person could do with a vise and a drill. I had to find a friend with a welder for mine. Cost me a six-pack of good beer. One thing to be aware of is if the bushing/snubber is pressed too hard in to the top of the diff you can get diff whine in the cabin. I experimented with straps and clamps early on when I was working on clunk and had some pretty noisy experiences. Your middle initial isn't C is it?

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I have definitely stopped saying anything humorous around other people. I think that a laugh probably projects more internal fluid out than a cough. And a good laugh is properly done with mouth wide open and elevated. I don't know why the various doctors don't mention this. So many fine details to avoiding spread that could make the other stuff easier.

Grab one, twist and pull. They'll probably slide right out. No press is required for installation. It's two bushings and the steel sleeve inside. I used washers to increase the effective length of the sleeve inside the bushing. That cut down on noise transfer by creating an air gap on the bushing ends. I don't think whoever designed the PU bushings really thought through the purpose and the reason for Nissan's original design. Nissan's design broke the noise transfer path to keep things quiet. The PU bushings are "racecar" bushings, designed to reduce any movement. Racecar people like noise. Many of the PU bushings weren't developed to make things better, they were developed because people would buy them. "Free market " principles say that those two things go together but reality shows that they often do not. Soapboxing...

It's getting red. Certain people are actively encouraging large family gatherings. It's getting beyond just nuts in to actual sadism. https://covidactnow.org/?s=1330330

The running light solder joint fails also. Too much heat, too many extreme heat cycles. You can put a single relay after the combo switch to power the various lights and take the load off of the switch. On my 76 it was a blue wire up under the dash. Hard to get to. I used a single relay on my headlight circuit also. It's easy to do and will save the combo switch while you're pondering the more complex solutions. Once that solder joint fails it tends to keep failing, I found. I just patched it with new solder a few times but I think a proper desoldering and cleaning is the way to go if you want to run full current through it again. It's a pain, avoid the broken solder joints if you can.

Maybe you've discovered a built-in remote starter switch. Who wants to explore this further?

Here is standard practice. If you do this without disconnecting the plug you might be backfeeding the ignition switch or some odd thing. Maybe you had the key On whereas before the key was off.

Describe this "jumping" procedure. I don't think that that's standard practice. Sounds like you're causing a dead short across a plug that expects a load.

The head of the USA COVID-19 task force watches millions of dollars shoot in to space. I can't even think of a snarky comment to add here...

Ah, nostalgia... p.s. look at that little kid about to get enveloped in carcinogenic smoke. Thanks Dad, that was neat... I grew up in a smoking family with pre-converter cars in the driveway. Everybody smoked, it was a deep lung hack-fest every morning when the relatives got together for the holidays. Now, I can smell a cigarette from a block away and a pre-cat car from a mile behind. It's incredible how we don't realize how bad things are until they're gone.

I think that the thermostat issue was in reference to the carburetor heating line, the one that runs to/from the thermostat housing. We had a whole discussion about that a short while ago.

That's the typical way to do it. As you said when the heater valve is closed those ports are blocked. The thread size in the head is the same as the thread size of the block drain plug, under the manifolds. That tells you very little unless you have a spare block.

Not much confidence in immunity. Boris Johnson had the virus but is isolating anyway after being in the presence of a COVID-positive person. https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2020/nov/15/boris-johnson-told-to-self-isolate-after-coronavirus-contact

ODB? Ol' Dirty Bastard? Wu Tang. I think OBD-I uses flashing lights on the ECU. Watch and count. Anyway, hope it was just an odd occurrence.

I finally caught one in the act. I don't think I rolled my cursor over it it just started autoplaying. It was one of those ads that pops up in the middle of a paragraph. It started playing when I was way down at the bottom of the thread but I scrolled up to the top until I saw it. I have no interest in Edward Jones products at all.

But why? I haven't looked through the Doc yet. I wonder if it's an OBD-1 or -II system. Trouble codes.

I'm starting to think that what's really happening, overall, is that the "troll" culture is taking over. In the old days, people listened to each other because there were repercussions if they didn't. You might get eaten by a bear or catch a nasty disease. Now everyone has the internet to feed them information. We don't need "other people" anymore to think we know what's going on, just the internet and mainstream media, which is controlled by big money. Tromp 2020 in Australia. Now that's an expensive "owning the libs" but what other purpose would it have? Crazy stuff...

It would be interesting to see more about that system in general. Is it from an 80's GM car? Is it heavily modified? I don't know a lot about TBI, except from exploring injector styles in the wrecking yard and digging in to an occasional GM TBI system. Only the mechanicals though, no electronics.