LeonV

Drove it back home successfully after the first drive since the suspension rebuild, and multitude of other smaller fixes. After all that work it reminds me of why I love my Z! Tach now works, but speedometer doesn't. Looks like they have an inverse relationship, when one works the other doesn't. Gotta love old cars...

I've never seen the plates under the differential in pic 6 nor the plate covering the LCA bolt in pic 7.

I would go for Tokico (HP or Illumina) inserts. I installed HPs and the ride is great. Some KYB inserts were in there before the rebuild and they were too soft for my liking. I see some strange stuff in your pics, BTW. Picture 6 and 7 show some metal plates that aren't stock.

"Urethane" is just short for "Polyurethane." No difference in the material. I just completely rebuilt my suspension (early 260Z) with poly bushings, dampers and springs, ball joints, and tie rods. It feels great, much better than worn out stock stuff at least. It's not overly stiff for my tastes either.

Other dimensions held constant, a longer spring will have a softer rate.

Yep, good chance it's that. Early 240Z oil bars are notorious for falling apart. Mine did, and ended up in the oil pan. Luckily I didn't run it long before I noticed. After you check the oiler, do a visual check of the cam and run a finger across the cam lobes to feel for any wear.

I hear you on that one! All those hours spent cleaning and sanding, I would be perfectly fine with giving someone $320 and have pretty parts come back without lifting a piece of sandpaper.

L24 rods are already forged. Why do you think you need forged pistons?

A few years ago, I noticed an end of my oil bar broke off on my 240Z. Found the piece in my oil pan!

John (jtburf) on Hybridz makes them. Just make sure to use a lot of heat and go slow.

If you have the firing order clockwise on the cap then that is your problem. Make sure the #1 plug is in the right spot and arrange the rest accordingly. Check with a timing light when you're done. It should then at least light off on ether, if not by itself.

It's an MSA 6-2 header.

Did you get any moisture into the engine? If yes, the TPS is the usual culprit.

I wouldn't recommend bending and welding the brake pedal. It will likely be okay for street use but realize that you are now changing how the pedal and linkage is stressed (magnitude depending on how much you bend and shorten it) and creating a stress riser at the weld.

Changing properties of a spring will change its spring rate. It doesn't matter whether a spring is linear or progressive, when you start cutting coils the spring rate will increase. Simple physics.

The Hillborn system definitely won't fit. Extrudabody and TEP are two that I can think of off the top of my head.

From http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/index.htm You can also find the procedure in the FSM.

Download the 1972 240Z FSM from xenons30.com. Take a look at the EC section, primarily Figure EC-3 on page EC-2. BTW, #1 and #2 in your picture are the fuel inlets into the float bowl. They connect to the fuel rail. It also seems that you are missing the air cleaner, to which the float bowl vents and valve cover breather attach to.

I had a chance to meet the owner and he's a cool guy with a hell of a nice Z!

Urban legend? Nova does mean "doesn't go" in Spanish and that's all I was saying within the context of this thread.

Doppelpost

Or the Nova in any Spanish-speaking countries!

Same here with the control arms. Thanks!

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Start by spraying starting fluid (or something similar) around the parts that were removed or tampered with when you installed the header. I'd suspect a hose that is cracked or not quite sealing, or the intake/exhaust gasket especially if you didn't install a new one.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. Steve has it right. Your car is not smog exempt unless it was made in 1965 (or '63, don't remember exactly) or earlier. In California, cars that are 1975 and older are exempt from biannual smog testing, not from compliance. That's why motorman7 can register his cars without having to test it. Sure, you're probably unlikely to get caught running a non-compliant pre-'75, but if you do, there may be repercussions based on how nice you are to the officer and how they're feeling that day. Legally, all Z's must have all emissions systems installed and operational.