LeonV

That's the one! It definitely is sweet sounding, especially with the triples.

If he's the guy with a sort of dark red colored Z and Wats, I know who you're talking about. That car looks and sounds fantastic!

My 260Z needs springs/dampers/bushings badly among other things! The 240Z is now sitting on jack-stands, patiently waiting for attention...

Check and clean your TPS and electrical connections. This is SOP with an engine that got wet and then doesn't accelerate. EDIT: Must've glossed over the part about the 280Z!

Same here, although they did not require the amount of compression that the stock ones did. I have heard of the Tokico springs not needing a spring compressor, but I have no experience with those.

Same here, never had a problem.

They're on sale. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC01C

Search TPS (throttle position switch), that is 99% likely to be the problem.

Yup, I got my mag lugs from Kragen (O'Reilly). Just make sure they're the correct thread and length. You want them just a little shorter than the width of the mounting surface so that the lug doesn't bottom out before clamping down the wheel. I brought one wheel with me to see how they fit before purchase.

Right, I didn't say that I did this to preserve the weatherstripping, but to protect the window glass. I'll be using new rubber when reinstalling.

I consulted Mr. Humble and took my time with it. I just used a thin scraper to cut out the chrome trim and then went around the whole window, front and back, until all the weatherstripping was loose. Then the window simply drops out. I took it out with the weatherstripping intact so I can store it without damage, per Humble's advice.

Yep, pull the valve cover and inspect the valvetrain for loose parts. I'm not getting where "valve float" comes into play here.

You really are never wrong are you... :stupid:

By the way, made a quick and dirty plot of hp vs. cc from data found here: http://www.simetric.co.uk/si_cc2hp_data.htm I used only the passenger cars on the list, so Ford Fiesta through Honda Accord. Plotting the displacement vs. hp you get the plot in the first attachment. The correlation is ok, but there are a couple of outliers as you can see. Taking out the two outliers from the data, you get the second plot. The data correlates a lot better. Keep in mind, this is using a relatively small sample size. There is a lot of dependency on the way the engine is tuned. But generally, I think that you can surmise from the data that there is a pretty linear dependency of power on displacement. I can go on and on, but it's a bit of a pointless argument at this point that has completely veered off topic... correlation.doc correlation2.doc

This guy is a troll, Jon. Leave him be in his own world...

No, you don't need it, but as alluded to it will increase steady-state oversteer by changing your roll stiffness distribution. FYI, the US-spec 240Zs didn't come with a rear bar. It all depends on what you use the car for.

Also, the '79 280ZX was lighter than the '78 280Z. You can't say that about many sports car reiterations. So by that logic, the 280Z was even more of a bloated insult to sports cars.

Fantastic find! The drive to there must have been equally great, especially if you did it in the Z!

Beautiful, and I love the color!

That's funny, I had the opposite experience! I used PB for a while until I read that Liquid Wrench is better in an article. They backed it up with some testing as well. I finally got my spindle pins out after using Liquid Wrench. I'd been going at it with PB for a looooong time! I don't know whether it was coincidence or not, but Liquid Wrench has been working very well for me. I switched to LW because it's what my local store had. Looks like ATF/acetone home-brew is the best bet, out of the tested choices.

Gotta love the six. I'd go with an L28 if it's available to you. I was going to do a rebuild of my L24 until a free L28 came along. Take what you can get, either choice is plenty of fun. If the L28 is in good condition I'd use at least that block and put some SUs or triples on top.

Rich mixture, reset your carbs. That involves checking for sticking nozzles, setting float level and doing the idle and syncing procedures.

Sticking jets might be the issue, as well as high float settings. I don't think the car should run with the mixture screws all the way in.

Ah, that's right Gary. It's definitely been a while!

I haven't done this in a while, so correct me if I'm wrong. I thought that you start with the front carb and then use the balance screw to set the rear at idle and then at about 2500 rpm. Start the procedure at the front, maybe that will help. Leon