LeonV

For the spindle pin: buy/make a puller (jtburf @ hybridz.org has them), and heat the hell out of the center strut casting in which the pin resides. Go slow, rushing any job makes it take 10 times longer.

Not sure, but it depends on the carb settings (needle, spring, etc.). I have yet to do any testing on SUs.

Julio, Put a WB02 in your exhaust and you won't have to guess anymore! The gauge and wiring can be easily hidden if you're worried about that.

I'll bite. Guess I'll go with (1) being easiest and increasing from there. (1) Nothing difficult, just time intensive Replace front stuts and springs with Eibach progressives and tokico illuminas Replace rear struts and springs Replace ball joints (1.5) Not hard, but rusty fasteners can be a killer Replace 30 plus year stock exhaust manifold with msa 3-2 coated header Replace exhaust with twice pipes (2) Nothing too difficult, just need to get metal sleeve out of LCA Replace all front bushings with urethane, control arm,tension rod, steering rack etc. (3) Requires further disassembly, rear can be stubborn Replace front wheel bearings and races Replace rear wheel bearings and races (4) These go hand-in-hand, biggest challenge here is getting the pin out, and outer RLCA bushings (if using poly) Replace all rear bushings Replace spindle pins. (5) That would be a PITA without the driveline being out of the way Replace all brake hardlines There is also plentiful info here and on the web describing these tasks. My 2 cents...

Here's a before/after of my exhaust: Before Engine: L24/E88, Triple 40DCOE Webers, stock cam Exhaust system components: stock manifold to 2.5" pipe Muffler: One straight-through, perforated tube can muffler (not much muffling going on here...) Video: After Engine (same): L24/E88, Triple 40DCOE Webers, stock cam Exhaust system components: Nissan Motorsports header to two separate 2" pipes Muffler: Two 18" glasspacks in transmission tunnel and two 12" glasspacks at the end, all reversed. Videos: I didn't have much time to get a good video of the new exhaust. I will also get a video of the new twice-pipes in the same format as the "before" video, as I get the time. Enjoy!

Some days I did want to beat it. With a hammer.

I made my first long trip in the Z this weekend! Went from San Bruno to Citrus Heights and back (232+ mile round trip). The Momo felt great, I really like the material. I will say that low-speed effort has definitely increased, but I really like the feel and quickness at higher speeds.

Same with me and an '83 Mustang GT. Got it for free with 89k miles! Needless to say, never again...

Yes, twins in the tranny tunnel and at the end, so that's two per each pipe. I'm really busy, but I promise I'll make a thread soon!

I'm pretty sure zero offset RBs don't exist, I'd double-check that number. Here is the offset list off Rota's website: http://www.rotawheels.com/wheels.asp?wheelid=34 The Illuminas with Eibachs is a nice setup for a street Z, even works fine for the occasional autoX. Just avoid bad roads.

Got some distance measurements tonight comparing how far a MOMO Race extends toward the driver versus a stock 240Z steering wheel. From the bottom of the hub to the face of the wheel, stock measures at 12cm. Measuring from the dash (spot between the tach and speedo) to the face of the wheel, stock measures at 20cm. The MOMO measurements cam out essentially the same! I'm definitely glad that the wheel did not get any closer to me. Keep in mind that the MOMO Race that I'm using has a relatively small dish, which I didn't measure but it's maybe an inch. I'll get pictures soon, I've been really busy lately.

Is it a good setup for what? Is the car going to be a street car, see track use, drive your wife to the grocery store, hit some Dukes of Hazzard jumps? Wheel and tire sizing has been discussed at length, you should be able to find all the info in a search.

Did a test fit of the MOMO and it is perfect! I really like the better, thicker grip as well as the size. It allows easier entry and exit and it also quickens the effective steering ratio (not actual steering ratio, which is degrees @ steering wheel / degrees @ road wheel). Less arm movement is required per degree of wheel turns, and while there is an increase in effort, it is only a 9% difference going to a 350mm (13.78") wheel from stock (15"). This means that if a certain turn required say 30lb of force, it now requires 32.7lb of force, which I don't mind at all. Tomorrow, I should have some time to take measurements and pictures!

It was like I was a kid on Christmas again, only better!!! They sound fantastic, not too loud for me and there's less drone on the freeway. It's got that distinct twice-pipe braaap sound to it, and combined with the induction noise of the Webers, the engine plays a mechanical symphony. Don't worry, when I have some time I'll make a thread on the exhaust build (with video of course)!

Very nice! Just got the call that my twice pipes are done, so I'll be listening to the sweet sound myself after I pick the car up this evening!

Believe me, you are really going to enjoy the Mikunis! The sound and performance is as good as it gets until I go EFI with ITBs. It would be great to see how the X-pipe affects the torque curve, be sure to post results if/when you get them.

Wow, I don't think I could ever justify paying that much for a steering wheel, but I guess to each his own! It looks like the Momo Comp is the same as the Race that I got except for spoke color, good to hear that placement isn't affected much. I'll take some pics and measurements soon enough!

I've followed your posts as well Steve, your duals are awesome! You and Chris have definitely helped convince me to go with duals. I'm also using 2" pipes along with 2 glasspacks per pipe. Believe me, I've just about looked up as many twice pipe videos as possible, but I haven't heard any in person yet. Your exhaust sounds great, get the wife to film a driving video! I hope the car will be ready tomorrow. I'd also be really curious to see the differences an X-pipe makes with the duals, as I know you have an X-pipe. As far as comparing dyno results, it's really tough to do with different dynos especially if they are different types of dynos. You really want to use the same dyno every time you test so that the results are comparable. However, we can make a valid comparison of the torque curve's shape. Basically, different length and diameter manifolds will create peaks at different rpm. These peaks are also dependent on cam specs, cylinder bore, and combustion chamber volume. If you have dyno sheets, post them up, and from there we can make comparisons of the effectiveness of different intake and exhaust manifolds, along with different cams and compression ratios. I'll keep you guys updated.

Z is at the exhaust shop as of yesterday! Hopefully, I will get it back in the next day or two. Time to schedule another dyno run.

Agreed' date=' that's why I got the wheel! Plus it makes ingress and egress easier, as I'm 6'2". I searched that very question for days, because I didn't want the wheel any closer to me. I didn't really find any quantitative facts on the topic. I decided to just get the Momo and work with it. The stock wheel has a large dish to it and the Momo I got is fairly flat. I can measure the difference in distance when the Z comes back from the exhaust shop.

Not sure about size, but this is what calipers are good for. Anyone doing any sort of hands on work needs one. Try not to cheap out too much, i.e. don't get a plastic one.

Admin Edit - Split this discussion off out of a different thread. Also, my hub adapter finally came in so I can finally mount my Momo.

Finished installing Nissan Motorsports header yesterday and today I drove to the exhaust shop 25 minutes away from the house. Loudest drive of my life and I forgot the ear plugs... :stupid: The twice pipe exhaust that I've been waiting for is on the horizon! Also, my hub adapter finally came in so I can finally mount my Momo.

Nice, that sounds like a good option if my mechanical pump's performance is unsatisfactory.

Nice job Steve, you sure turned that tired Z into a solid track car quickly! Looks like you've got the Mikunis dialed in pretty well. Did you end up using the RX7 fuel pump and a regulator? I'm still using the mechanical pump and stock fuel rail as well, but I'll be putting on a fuel pressure gauge to make sure it's in spec.