LeonV

I've seen this car on CL a few times before. I bet she didn't post a price because it's way too high, hence the car hasn't sold for a year, or however long it's been.

Why wait for a bleeder tool when you can just bleed them manually? You can start off by yourself, put the bleed hose into a jar of good brake fluid and pump away. Once you have fluid coming out of the hose, close the bleeder and step on the pedal a few times. Check for leaks. I've used this procedure for making sure everything in the braking system is good and finished up utilizing a helper to get those last few bubbles out, which didn't take very long.

Do you recall which Mallory pump you used?

Sounds like a vacuum leak.

I run Eibach springs/Tokico dampers without the spacers. I haven't had any issues, i.e. no weaving when hitting irregularities. Make sure you do use bump stops, the progressive polyurethane ones work nicely.

Everyone that's used the Holley Red says they're loud. I haven't heard the noise personally so I'm probably going to put it in and see for myself. FWIW, any sort of factory pump is likely going to be quieter than an aftermarket one. You can also use an EFI pump and regulate it down. Just make sure you have a restriction-free return line and place the regulator after the carbs.

Great, here I am about to install a Holley Red for my triples this weekend. It came with my 240Z shell and the triples on my 260Z have been asking for more fuel. I've been on the fence about using the Holley or getting something else. In my research, the Carter 4070 seems to be a nice alternative, however I don't have info on noise. Since I already have the Holley I haven't pulled the trigger on another fuel pump. The RX-7 pump seems to come highly recommended by those that have used them.

Bingo.

Vertical loads are picked up by the upright and absorbed by the spring/damper. Lateral loads are picked up by control arm and steering rack bushings. Longitudinal loads are picked up by control arm and T/C rod bushings. Stiff springs with poor/improperly spec'd dampers will contribute to a harsh ride. I have no clue what bushings of "vertical parts" refers to. Rubber will isolate the vibrations more, but you suspension will be better controlled due to less compliance (little movement at bushings). Like I said, springs and more importantly, dampers, will affect the ride more than bushings. I have poly, but I also have a stiffer suspension setup so I can't really comment on the effect of just the bushings. The ride is stiff but tolerable.

Doesn't make a bit of sense to me. Vertical and horizontal suspension parts? Are you talking about the direction of loads experienced by the parts? What is this going to accomplish?

I've had this happen after I first got my 260Z. The alternator was not charging the battery. You should see about 14.5V at the battery at around 2500rpm. I went through the FSM diagnostics, and while I was testing the alternator and VR it started working. Turned out I had a bad electrical connection at the alternator.

I almost got a 944 before I got a Z, the turbos are great. I was very impressed by the Boxster (Cayman must be heaven) as well, but that may be too new for you.

Don't need it. I removed all of mine and have no warm-up issues. The exhaust manifold warms up the carbs before the coolant even has a chance to. I don't remember the sizes, but they are very likely all BSPT fittings, not NPT. Good luck finding that at home depot! You may be able to get away with using NPT and teflon tape, but it's much more preferable to use the proper fittings. You can find them online at sites like McMaster Carr, or possibly at a specialty hardware store.

Secondly, read up on how breaker point ignition systems work. I don't get how you can try to solve something without first understanding how it works. We've pointed you in the direction you need to head to, but the work must be done by you. Otherwise, you're just going to have others solve your problems for you without you learning a whole lot about what is actually going on (this is how a lot of "internet myths" begin, BTW). Asking a well-researched and thought out question is great, so read up on the fundamentals of what you're working on as you will learn a lot more than by just staring at the engine and guessing how things work.

Have you done this yet?

I thought I had deja vu for a second there. You asked that exact question earlier in the thread and we answered it.

The FSM is not just good for the wiring diagrams, but also for everything else concerning the Z. Don't know what's stock? Check the FSM. Don't know what point gap is? Check the FSM. Googling terms you don't know (like point gap) will help.

Did you download the FSM yet? It's all in there. Get the '72 FSM from Xenon's site that you've been linked to and is in Steve's signature. Everything should be similar, if not identical, to a stock '71, especially reguarding the ignition system.

First thing that came to my mind is your points aren't opening. As others have suggested, check point gap.

Ground the wire coming off the thermal transmitter on the thermostat housing. The gauge should go all the way to the right. If it does, you have a connection problem at the transmitter. If the gauge doesn't move, the problems lies somewhere between the gauge and transmitter, likely at a connector. EDIT: Make sure key is IGN ON. EDIT 2: Careful. If you have a points distributor, disconnect power from it or make sure the points are open so you don't fry them.

Yes, the mix up may come from the fact that combustion chamber temps reach a maximum just above stoichiometric and exhaust temps are a max below stoich. There you go, that's 4 paths of conductive heat transfer right from your engine to the fuel lines. No amount of heat shielding will stop that. Hopefully, eliminating the stock rail and routing your lines in a way to limit heat transfer into them will alleviate if not fully cure your vapor locking problems. Out of curiousity, did you try running the car with the hood propped open to vent heat?

And congratualtions on the finish and award. Sounds like hell, errr fun!

Glowing exhaust means it's rich. If you're burning fuel inside your manifold, it will literally get red hot! As far as the vapor lock issues, try to insulate all fuel lines, and don't mount the fuel lines to anything attached to the engine. The original fuel rail will conduct heat from the engine to your fuel lines if you're still using it.

Around here that's a $500 parts car, with the "new" parts included.

BTW, I had a typo in my last post. I meant to say the 240Z made 151hp net and 129hp gross, and the 260Z had 162hp gross and 139hp net. This is what the Zhome article reflects. Chris, you're waaay over-analyzing this. My 260Z is an original California car. It is not right-hand drive. I have the original owner's information and even the original license plate frame from San Jose Datsun. I have both a '71 240Z and '74 260Z with identical ID plates besides the different VIN & engine numbers and power numbers. Have you seen the engine bay of another early 260Z? With similar induction and exhaust systems, and an increase in displacement, how can power not increase? Can you tell me what emissions controls dropped power? Compression ratio slightly dropped, bit that small of a drop in compression does not make a big difference (maybe 1%). This is logic, along with tangible proof. I am not lying to you, the 260Z had more power than the 240Z. It did weigh more, thus the acceleration wasn't as good as an early Z. The '73 Z gained weight over the earlier ones by way of extra wiring, beefier bumpers, and added steel (e.g. door bars inside the frames).