LeonV

EGR will also increase fuel efficiency.

In case you didn't get my not-so subtle hint - get wheels that fit properly. If you're so set on keeping the ones you have, then you will very likely have to get longer studs and spacers. Personally, I'd get wheels with the appropriate offset.

Is the tire/rim touching the spring perch on the strut? Others have grinded part of the perch down in an effort to fit their tires, but I think that'll gain you maybe a maximum of 1/4" clearance. You should also check clearance over the entire wheel travel. The other issue you may have would be your wheel/tire hitting the frame at full steering lock. If you don't want to get different wheels or longer studs plus spacers, then your options are limited to adapting a spindle/upright which supports a more positive offset. Hmm, which option seems like the better one...

Does an engine need EGR? Did all engines before '74 "frost up" because EGR was not mandated? No, on both counts. Your mechanic doesn't know what he's talking about, which is typical... Now, does the car run cleaner with EGR? Yes. Does it hurt performance? No. There is no good reason to remove the system.

Sorry to take the thread off track, but thank you for posting this! I'll be in San Diego this weekend and did not know the Festival was going on. I will definitely have to hit the Speed Fest!

I have an early 260Z. I have also linked to the ebay conversion brackets in my previous post. Body-hugging 240Z bumpers DO NOT fit the 260Z without modification, no matter if it is an early or late 260Z. The brackets will work just fine, except (at least in the 260Z's case) the fronts will likely need holes drilled to fit correctly.

Because he never said it starved at 45mph. Re-read the original post and the problem will become clear...

They do not. I got mine from a guy selling them on ebay, here and here. I haven't mounted the bumpers yet though, so I can't comment on fitment yet, but you will have to drill holes for at least the front.

Definitely sounds like fuel starvation, I would follow Pete's advice. Also, I want to second Zforce in that you need to check the pre-bowl carb filters as well and clean them if necessary.

Yes, the lower number means hotter plug in NGK-talk. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

I've heard complaints actually, you must remove them to adjust them, unlike TTT (not sure about MM).

Probably running hot, lots of carbon deposits in cylinder or your plugs are too hot. Couple of questions; what is the part number/heat range of your plugs, what temp thermostat are you running and has the cooling system been maintained and the coolant flushed recently?

Of course you should start a build thread, what are you waiting for!

Honda S600/S800, if you can find an example. I'd absolutely love to own one, although I'm not sure if I'd fit. Take a look at C10 Skylines, although that may be too close to the Z-car. They can be imported for less than you may think. How about a Soviet-era Trabant? They were small...

Regarding ignition advance, have you taken a timing light and checked at different rpm to make sure your advance is working? Otherwise, tape the fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and take it out for a drive. This is how I diagnosed my fuel delivery problem. At idle, I'd get 3-3.5psi but under load pressure dropped to zero or near zero. Before that, I was not sure if it was a fuel or spark problem either, but that sure helped pinpoint it. If fuel pressure checks out, I would hook up a timing light and put that inside the car while you drive so you can visually check if you lose spark.

Have you tried this yet?

If you floor it, will it hesitate then go, or will it completely bog and not pick back up? Did you check the float level? Drive around with a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield. Pressure can be okay at idle, but not with load.

As I said, the technique must be correct. Lots of penetrating oil, LOTS of heat and turning the nut a bit at a time. Some tapping from the other end and around the casting may help as well. I'm sure there will be some pins that still won't come out, but with patience most pins can be taken out in one piece. I'm not against the acme thread, it's just not going to be a magic solution. It'll probably just shift the failure mode from the threaded rod to the threads on the spindle pin. Patience, technique, and more patience will still very much be required.

The term "dieseling" means that the car continues to run, after the ignition has been shut off. I don't think that's what you're describing. If the engine is "lugging" then downshift, you're in the wrong gear for the given load. We need a better description of what is happening when you drive the car. What does it do at steady-state cruise (surging, bucking, etc.)? What does it do when you stomp on the pedal (buck, stall, etc.)? Also, do you have a heat shield installed between the exhaust and carbs?

The all-thread I snapped was hardened steel. No matter what kind of all-thread is used, the technique must be correct otherwise you'll be cursing another broken tool.

Something like that, I'll measure when I'm home. You are correct, the wall is thin where the M12 hole is tapped and that is exactly where failure occurred.

It may improve the tool, but that is a qualitative statement. I'm not sure how much of an improvement it will be, and if it's worth the costs. The failure mode of my all-thread was actually at the nut end, the all-thread simply snapped off! The bar itself failed, the threads were just fine. I was actually able to reuse that one after cleaning up the threads a bit. I applied a healthy amount of grease to the tool as well, before use. So, judging by my experience, the only way the acme thread would improve the design is if the threaded rod itself is inherently stronger than the standard all-thread. I don't think I noticed any twisting, that is what the grease is for.

I got a tool which utilizes the standard all-thread. I can say that it works well if you take it slow and add LOTS of heat to the strut casting. I broke my first all-thread from a combination of being too ambitious and slightly vague instructions. Turn the nut a little bit at a time and make sure the pin moves. Again, heat the strut casting like you're trying to melt the thing, I used MAPP gas. Of course, penetrating oil is a prerequisit for this job, but you already know that part!

I use a plain, inductive timing light, probably from Kragen or something. Some people prefer dial-back timing lights, but it doesn't make much of a difference. Use the plain-old NGK plugs, BP6ES.