LeonV

I've used Rockauto a ton of times without a problem. They have very fast shipping, parts are usually at my doorstep within three days.

No wiseguys, eh? nyuk, nyuk, nyuk! But seriously, take a look at the SU carb section of the forum and search this site and google as well. SU functionality, syncing procedure, vacuum leak testing, etc. is all available online.

That too! Coincidentally, both are on my list for the next daily-driver.

Good, that confirms what I'm saying. By those numbers, the 260Z is actually quicker than the '73 240Z. It also confirms the power numbers, look at "note 1" for the 240Z and "note 2" for the 260Z. SAE gross for 240Z is 151hp, for the 260Z is 162hp. SAE gross for the 240Z is 129hp, and for the 260Z is 139hp. Thanks!

I have 240Z and 260Z bumpers on hand, along with mounting brackets. I guess I'll just have to weigh them and see... It's not like it's hard to convert to 240Z bumpers, which would essentially nullify any difference between the early 260Z and later 240Z.

There already is a modern-day 240Z, and it's called the Honda S2000. Just my 2 cents...

Anyone thinking "yes" is either insane or a masochist. All new hardlines would be a huge undertaking relative to a typical brake job, and would only make sense if you've got the bottom of the car taken apart and in the air. If it's never been dry, you're fine. Flush the brake fluid to make sure it's nice and clean and you'll be good to go.

Yup, fuel consumption won't change much given the same style of driving. People probably tend to drive the cars harder with the lower gears, giving the perception that fuel mileage has drastically changed.

The 110 Red is can be better described as persimmon. My 110 Red 260Z looks more orange than red, but it has been repainted. Like I said, check the car out in person if you have doubts on the color. Of course, a complete inspection is necessary to deem the car worthy of the asking price as well.

Looks like the color of my 260Z (110 Red). From the pictures, it looks like a close match. I love the color, maybe you'll like it better in person. It's a nice Z, especially interior wise, but I wouldn't trust the mileage claim unless it can be verified. You can find one in similar shape for less, especially if you're not too fond of the color. It all depends on what kind of Z you're looking for, prisine low-mileage or just a nice driver. BTW, I'm in San Bruno as well!

There are three reasons, the first two of which are twice as important as the third. Firstly, holding load constant, pumping losses are reduced as EGR is introduced. Higher exhaust pressure increases intake pressure, therefore you achieve a better cylinder fill. Second, there is less heat transfer to engine walls (lower adiabatic flame temperature) which reduces heat losses. The third has to do with the chemical reaction during combustion being more efficient (decreasing degree of dissociation). Referenced from Heywood's Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals.

Not true. The way power was measured changed. Power in the 260Z was up over the 240Z, contrary to popular belief. FWIW, the ID plate in the engine compartment of my early 260Z lists the L26 at 162hp. There is an early and a late 260. I doubt the early one "picked up a couple 100 pounds" not sure on the late one as I think it was a 280Z chassis (beefier) with 260Z running gear. The only changes I see from my 240Z to my early 260Z that noticeably affect weight are a larger amount of wiring and slightly sturdier bumpers with shocks. I just don't think that adds up to 200lb.

Carb intakes will work with both a carb or EFI head. An EFI intake will work on an EFI head but not a carb head (E-series).

Or, you can just put on a 240Z/early 260Z air dam and be done with it...

I'm betting the tag is just because the lines have not been certified by the DOT, or something to that effect. You'll be fine with using them, I haven't had any problems and they look so purdy!

I haven't had trouble using a flare wrench on my lines, just use rust penetrant and clean the nuts before attempting, as mentioned. Use a 10mm flare wrench on one side and a 19mm (or 17mm, don't recall exactly) on the big nut. Go slow and don't let the wrench slip. I'm using braided MSA lines without a problem, just make sure you don't kink them on installation. As far as the "off-road only" tag, it's not etched into the brake lines and can be easily removed. Regardless, I doubt anyone would be inspecting your soft brake lines if you get pulled over, especially if your car is stock-ish (i.e. doesn't look or try to look like a "race car"). Otherwise, inspect the brakes and see if they need attention. Go by the FSM, check for leaks and wear, and correct as necessary. Adjust the rear brakes.

The bumpers were a government regulation-driven requirement, not a styling decision.

M12x1.25 but that's off the top of my head. I'm sure someone can verify.

I'd check lash and double check the rocker arm and surrounding parts to make sure everything there is okay.

Did you have a look under the valve cover and check the valves at that cylinder?

Get the best body you possibly can. Worry about everything else later.

It's in the FSM, BE section.

Did you have the head checked for cracks before replacing it?

FWIW, when I changed my plugs recently, they all had green tint. I was using straight water for coolant, no glycol. I'd never seen it before, but didn't think much of it as the car runs strong. What, exactly, are the symptoms you're experiencing Steve?

No problem, it's on my (rather large) to-do list.