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LeonV

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Everything posted by LeonV

  1. Bye-bye resto project when that happens, believe me!
  2. Very nice! Z headers double nicely as artwork.
  3. Few things: (1) Does your manifold have a balance tube, a'la Cannon? (2) Does brake effort decrease as RPMs increase? Holding master cylinder piston diameter constant, increasing caliper piston area should decrease effort but increase travel, per Pascal's Law. In other words, if you switch to bigger calipers, pedal effort should decrease.
  4. No problem, helps to rehash my memory on what I've done and need to do anyway. I didn't find that there was a big difference in slow transitions after soldering the spills but then again I don't have data to prove it, just observations of O2 readings while driving. I thought it would have a bigger effect than it did, too. Slow transitions also mean that the accel pump piston moves slowly, allowing some fuel to "blow-by" the piston and not get pushed out through the orifice and pump jet. Theoretically. How much I don't know, but it depends on the seal the piston makes with its bore.
  5. I was unclear, sorry. You're correct if the shoes haven't been messed with and the handbrake is correctly adjusted. I think I mixed up the FSM and John Coffey's (I think?) suggestion based on his experiences. FWIW, a worn/maladjusted handbrake will not allow full adjustment of the rear brakes.
  6. Good to hear, John.
  7. I'm on board.
  8. Good question, and it depends on where you're at right now. My goal was to have it to the point where I could stomp on it at 1500rpm in 1st and take off without bucking like a bronco. I first tried stiffer springs but that didn't work since they overcame the throttle return springs and made the car idle at 3000rpm. Then I soldered up the spill jets and the situation got better although the engine still wanted more fuel on quick bursts of the throttle. The use of .53mm pump jets got rid of the hesitation although the AFR still goes a bit lean before settling back down. I haven't done so but .55 or .60 pump jets would probably be as good as it gets. Then I still need to get smaller hypojets to further improve my gas mileage (I can have my cake and eat it too ). Here's a good post by Mike Riehle on the message board, when we were discussing accel enrichment tuning: So Phil, what are your current accel problems? Sorry for the side-tracking but I figure this will help Takashi in getting his carbs right too. DISCLAIMER: tune your accel pump LAST! Your idle and main circuits should be at a "good" state at this point.
  9. Looks great, Mike! Thanks for the info.
  10. A few design constraints are a good thing, but I become disinterested when you constrain everything (i.e. spec series). I say give teams a tire and a power/weight ratio spec and let them have at it! The solutions become much more interesting.
  11. FYI, this is not the proper way to adjust the drums, refer to the FSM. You won't have full braking performance unless they are adjusted correctly.
  12. Narrow-band sensors are useless for anything other than catalyst monitoring. Otherwise it's just bling, i.e. a conversation starter. If you actually want to tune your car, get a wideband sensor and gauge instead of wasting time, money, and energy on the NB.
  13. I've got a set of 45DCOE-152 on the workbench and will be putting them on an L28 in the coming months (hopefully by mid-April). I also have 36mm chokes and a pretty good collection of jets going (including Keith's hypojets and e-tubes). Come by my house with your Z sometime and we'll have ourselves a little Weber party. EDIT: as Blue alluded to, explore Sidedraft Central (it's a Yahoo group). That place is a goldmine. Much of the info you read online and even in books will be incorrect, misleading, and/or incomplete. Keith has been the most knowledgeable and informative person that I have ever dealt with when it comes to these carbs.
  14. Seems like the fun part to me. Watching 20 of the same car racing around the track (i.e. spec racing) isn't as fun for me, personally. I find it intriguing how vehemently opposed you are to this car, especially as an engineer...
  15. Performance gains, if any, are minimal unless the bar is triangulated. Example:
  16. LeonV replied to INST3D's topic in Open Discussions
    Looks fantastic, can't wait to see it finished! If the model is dimensionally sound, it would be a great tool to try out different things without actually having to mess with your Z. I'm sure engine-swappers would love it.
  17. Nice find and great info!
  18. Browsing for manifolds on ebay, I happened to come across an FET with a torsional return spring. The photos aren't great, but you can see that they simply used a collet on the throttle rod to fix one end and wrapped the other end around the rod end. Crude yes, but it may work well. JDM FET Intake Manifold Weber 40 45 Dcoe Datsun 240Z 260z 280z L24 L26 L28 6CYL | eBay
  19. I know, I'm a terrible person! Are you sure you really need the lower gears? What makes you want something lower than a 4.11?
  20. LeonV replied to madkaw's topic in Open Discussions
    Awesome sightings yesterday on 101N as I was heading to SF on 101S in the North Bay. Saw that super clean orange 280Z again and less than 5 minutes later saw a super clean orange 240Z!
  21. Let's do it. I'll use it for the first half of the year, and ship it to you for the second half. In my research, I've found that the high-quality castings are basically copies of the Nissan Comp manifold, which was destined for the high-performance versions of 240Zs (i.e. Nissan initially planned to sell 240Zs in the US with triple Mikunis and an extra 15hp). The info came from Tony D, among others. Manifolds like the Tomei and Kameari are essentially the same casting as the Nissan Comp mani, and I think TWM is similar. There are other quality manifolds out there that differ in casting, like FET, SK, Mikuni, etc. You can get a new TWM intake for $450 or so. I'm on the lookout if anyone's looking to unload. I'd say that's a TWM or a TWM copy.
  22. I have a 4.375 R200 CLSD (longnose) out of an R31 GTS-R but can't see myself parting with it... sorry for the tease!
  23. The Z's valvetrain makes noise. Reducing noise by decreasing valve lash is a sure way to burn up valves over time. A 40-year-old Z will never be as quiet of a car as most people are used to these days.

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