LeonV

Thanks! Could you PM me his contact info?

I share a similar disdain to the Cannon manifold. In fact, I was just doing some research today on better manifolds that I can replace it with. The previous owner of the 45s I got recently had a very interesting modification done to the manifold. He sent it off to a machinist, who welded in new heim joint towers that were in much better alignment when compared to Cannon's effort. However, the owner still reported some throttle return issues, albeit more minor ones. I have a feeling it had to do with throttle arm alignment/creep, but I have yet to check as I need to build the engine first.

Beautiful Z! It's begging for some Panasports. Looks like that zero guy screwed quite a few people over...

I love those horns simply because they fully are radiused at the ends! I've been recently thinking about modifying my air horns to give the ends a full radius since I hadn't seen long, radiused horns for triples. Maybe I won't have to...

Awesome! Looking forward to some live action footage. Soon you'll be considering triples...

The front-right wheel looks like it still has excessive positive camber. I suspect either frame or strut tower misalignment. It would be wise to measure things up and make sure your chassis is straight before spending money elsewhere.

Interesting question. If they fit, I don't know if you'll be able to run any type of air cleaner, short of the stainless mesh strainers that are available. Another consideration is carb sync, it may be a tight squeeze. Hard to say without knowing your total length from head to carb inlet.

Very nice! I sent Mike 2 sets of 260Z tail light trims. I took some before photos but the lighting wasn't great. One set had been painted black and the other is original but worn and peeling in a few areas. Can't wait to see the results!

I'm selling my good 3.36 R180 for $50...

Physics! A coil spring is just a wound-up wire of metal. When a coil spring compresses, what actually happens is the metal wire twists in torsion, i.e. deforms in order to compress the spring. When you cut material out of the spring, you are shortening that metal wire. A shorter wire is harder to twist, thus the spring rate increases. It's akin to taking, say, a plastic ruler in your hands and twisting it. If you make that ruler shorter (put your hands closer together) it will be harder to twist. The analog to this in bending: take a long metal rod and a short one, holding all else constant. Which one will be easier to bend? Same idea.

Looks normal to me too...

I've been using Mobil1 10W-30 full synthetic with no issues for 2.5 years.

A combo of dead ball-joints, dead (or missing) upper strut bearing, and possible steering rack issue can cause this. Did you take a look underneath and do a quick check to see if something is binding?

Nope. It's geared just right (amazing gearbox BTW) and I didn't buy the car to drag race.

Something is drastically wrong in your method, especially if you're referring to the 5-slot mags in your avatar. (1) Measure rim width (measure it, don't use the rated width) (2) Divide by 2 to find wheel centerline (3) Measure from the back face of the wheel to the hub mounting surface (backspacing) (4) Subtract (3) from (2) And you're done.

Seconded, although the Boxster is a very fun car. I've had thoughts of getting a Cayman, but the S2000 really feels like plenty already. With a hardtop, the S is even kind-of civil on the freeway. I wouldn't mind driving a Cayman, but I'm scared it'll make me want one! The only other car I really drool over is the first-gen BMW M Coupe. I almost got one instead of the S2000, but reliability concerns drove me away. I love the ride, performance, and looks though! Well, also maybe a 911 GT3 at some (financially doable) point.

Saw a green 280Z in great shape on 101 this morning, in Petaluma.

The 260Z tach is not the most reliable unit, so-to-say. Mine was initlally dead because of some dreadful PO wiring (caused a dead short when wiring in a starter button). After getting the wiring right it came back to life but intermittently, and shortly therafter completely stopped working. A 280Z tach did the trick (wiring is the same but unit is more reliable). Faceplates can be switched between units if you're concerned about keeping that correct.

Agreed, mistmatched wheels/tires are a big no-no...

Don't be so sure, the Kleenspeed EV-X11 sounds pretty damn awesome at 120mph... You would never need to use the clutch for take-offs in an electric car. Electric motors don't idle, hence there is no need to decouple the engine from the drivetrain when taking off.

Steve, if I'm in the area I will be sure to let you know!

Wow, absolutely gorgeous. Fantastic work! We need a video of that thing once you get it tuned up!

Cool! I'll have to leave some room on the calendar.

Nice interior! Looks like someone did adapt the earlier round-top SUs. It would be awesome to see an all-original 260Z (flat tops and everything) but for functionality the round tops work just fine.

Welcome! Beautiful early 260Z you have there, they're rare to see in such nice, and very original original shape. Let's see some interior and engine bay shots!