LeonV

I've been using Mobil1 10W-30 full synthetic with no issues for 2.5 years.

A combo of dead ball-joints, dead (or missing) upper strut bearing, and possible steering rack issue can cause this. Did you take a look underneath and do a quick check to see if something is binding?

Nope. It's geared just right (amazing gearbox BTW) and I didn't buy the car to drag race.

Something is drastically wrong in your method, especially if you're referring to the 5-slot mags in your avatar. (1) Measure rim width (measure it, don't use the rated width) (2) Divide by 2 to find wheel centerline (3) Measure from the back face of the wheel to the hub mounting surface (backspacing) (4) Subtract (3) from (2) And you're done.

Seconded, although the Boxster is a very fun car. I've had thoughts of getting a Cayman, but the S2000 really feels like plenty already. With a hardtop, the S is even kind-of civil on the freeway. I wouldn't mind driving a Cayman, but I'm scared it'll make me want one! The only other car I really drool over is the first-gen BMW M Coupe. I almost got one instead of the S2000, but reliability concerns drove me away. I love the ride, performance, and looks though! Well, also maybe a 911 GT3 at some (financially doable) point.

Saw a green 280Z in great shape on 101 this morning, in Petaluma.

The 260Z tach is not the most reliable unit, so-to-say. Mine was initlally dead because of some dreadful PO wiring (caused a dead short when wiring in a starter button). After getting the wiring right it came back to life but intermittently, and shortly therafter completely stopped working. A 280Z tach did the trick (wiring is the same but unit is more reliable). Faceplates can be switched between units if you're concerned about keeping that correct.

Agreed, mistmatched wheels/tires are a big no-no...

Don't be so sure, the Kleenspeed EV-X11 sounds pretty damn awesome at 120mph... You would never need to use the clutch for take-offs in an electric car. Electric motors don't idle, hence there is no need to decouple the engine from the drivetrain when taking off.

Steve, if I'm in the area I will be sure to let you know!

Wow, absolutely gorgeous. Fantastic work! We need a video of that thing once you get it tuned up!

Cool! I'll have to leave some room on the calendar.

Nice interior! Looks like someone did adapt the earlier round-top SUs. It would be awesome to see an all-original 260Z (flat tops and everything) but for functionality the round tops work just fine.

Welcome! Beautiful early 260Z you have there, they're rare to see in such nice, and very original original shape. Let's see some interior and engine bay shots!

Awesome, thank you Mike!

Hey guys, looks like I need some help from the early-Z gurus. Anybody recognize this tray? Thanks!

Good to hear!

Damn, that's some crazy footage. In video #6, the narrator says someone was exiting through that door when the shockwave came through, and severed a guy's finger...

Welcome and I look forward to meeting you sometime! Bay Area 260Zs, unite! Let's see some pics of the Z, and Celica and E30 M3 for that matter.

Dry torque specs don't account for anti-sieze, so using it will definitely require a smaller torque value when compared to a dry torque spec. Ideally, the conditions for the torque spec are mentioned (dry, lubricated, etc.). Most of the torque felt at the wrench is friction, with maybe 10-15% accounting for actual bolt strain. By drastically reducing friction, the bolt will either yield (losing preload) or break. Here's a great site on this topic, parroted from Tony D: Information related to bolted joints

I haven't felt the need to lubricate my red poly bushings in the 2 years I've been using them. The car will feel a lot tighter with the PU bushings. Use rubber on the TC rods if you're worried about harshness.

Suspension rebuilding and bushing upgrades: Blue's Tech Tips

Just a tad... I'll give you availability and price! Those are the only two upsides to the iron drums.

Drum deformation under braking. Seriously? Where do you come up with this stuff? FWIW, iron drums degrade performance in almost every sense: not only are they heavier but they're worse at dissipating heat than their aluminum counterparts.

In what sense are iron drums an improvement over aluminum?