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DoctorMuffn

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About DoctorMuffn

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    Lake Forest, CA
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    Student

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    240Z

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  1. 6 3/4" front and 7 1/4" rear from the rockers (the seam where the car is raised not the frame rail as I understand it). And the driver's side is 1/4" higher for each measurement.
  2. I'm actually moving to Virginia. Interesting points, FastWoman. I did consider losing my bikes if the vacuum cup loses suction, but I was overlooking the liability for the damage it would cause other vehicles... As far as the sheet metal and paint go, my car is haggard already, but I worry my peeling clear coat would reduce the suction capabilities of the vacuum cup to begin with. Thanks for your input.
  3. I went with the KYB Excel-G dampers (361001 and 361002) to get an affordable and close-to-stock replacement until I'm experienced enough to section my struts myself. I know, they're the same shocks I pulled out, but I can see the old cartridges were definitely shot now that I can compare them to new ones. I cut a coil off each spring as well; I'm wagering they were stock springs. I'll take ride height measurements when I get it all aligned after I install Techno Toy Tuning's LCAs front and rear. Then I'll replace the tires. And even now with only the dampers replaced it rides a great deal better. Thanks for everyone's input. I'm excited about doing the coilover setup when the time comes.
  4. Mini Bomber | SeaSucker I've been looking for a way to bring my cycles with me when I move across country. I thought I'd throw this out there for general reference in case others were looking for racks or mounts for recreational equipment. And to see what others on the board think of this design. I'll call on it tomorrow. Thanks for looking. Look up SeaSucker on YouTube also if you want more video footage.
  5. Gotcha'. I guess I was looking for it elsewhere; I didn't want to pay a premium for a name. I'll order some. Thanks.
  6. I picked up three quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid (yellow bottle, black top). On the front it reads: For use in manual transaxles and transmissions requiring GM Part No. 12345349 or 12345577 and Chrysler Part No. 4874464. Meets GM Specification on 9985648 and Chrysler Specification MS9224. On the back it reads: Pennzoil Synchromesh Fluid is a synchromesh transmission fluid designed for certain manual transaxles and manual transmissions used by General Motors and Chrysler. It provides excellent oxidation stability, low temperature performance, synchronizer performance and is compatible with yellow metals, such as bronze, brass, and copper components found in manual trasaxles and transmissions. There's no API GL rating. But it's the only gear oil that specifically mentions transmissions and synchronizers that I could find at Autozone. What do you think?
  7. Hey, LeonV, the label on that GL-5 Wally-World stuff says, "Protects against rust, foam, high temperature and corrosion of copper or bronze bushings." In fact, all of their gear oil branded Supertech are GL-5 and have those words on the back. Anyway, GL-4 is, as noted in another forum, "as rare as hen teeth." Not sure how I'm gonna get my hands on this crap. And I'm also doubtful it would stop that whirring sound. But that would be most excellent if it did.
  8. That was an incredibly informative read. I read all of it, and while I don't exactly have the time to fact check everything the author, Richard Widman, says he sure seems to take a non-biased fact finding approach to his write up. And sure enough, my '73 manual calls for GL-4 in the trans and GL-5 in the diff. I'm not sure how it will affect the whirr I'm hearing, but it's definitely worth a try. Saving the day again, LeonV. Much appreciated. I'll let you know how it goes.
  9. Oh man!!! And the suspension woes continue... I ordered Tokico's TOILK252 from Nopi yesterday to find out this morning that they're on back order and Mr. Morita of Tokico is telling Nopi 60-90 days till they're in. I've looked at Ksport coilovers and I'm gonna look at Techno Toy Tuning again since mixing and matching Carl's springs (a very generous offer) with sets of shocks starts approaching the $1k level really fast. And at that coilovers might be a better alternative since I can get Ksports for $1200 shipped from Nopi. However, those are part number CNS360-KP for 51mm strut tubes in the 280Z and not my 48mm tubes in my 240Z (as I'm determining from hybridz in their sectioning thread and the Koni part numbers for the gland nuts). See here: Strut Sectioning FAQ - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ. And then I have no idea how to section. Or rather, I have every idea how to section thanks now to hybridz and that FAQ link, but I don't have the experience cutting and welding I should have to begin doing so on such an important and safety-oriented part. Not sure what to do. Thanks for listening. WOW!!! I'm ready to spend some money now and I still can't fix this thing...
  10. Sweet! Thanks for the advice, Blue. This line from your link was interesting: "Eliminates gear whine and rattle at high temperatures" I don't really have a shifting problem and the whirr or whine doesn't seem to be temperature based. But I'll give a better listen next time I'm in it to see if there's a difference in intensity cold to hot. I've got Walmart Supertech full synthetic 75W-140 in it right now. Is this a bad oil?
  11. I finished the rebuild. It's mostly good. I've been rolling around on it for a few days now. I get a whir on decel from first gear that gets more pronounced when I disengage the clutch. Not sure what it is, but I'm not really excited about getting back into it. I'm responding mainly to close up this thread with a solution. I feel like I've asked questions and not come back to the threads I've started to say "I won!" Thanks, ClassicZcar.
  12. Got it! Excellent explanation. Finally it makes perfect sense. Thanks, LeonV.
  13. You were right, Carl. I went and found some of Arne's posts from before and he did say the ride height was raised from USA stock height with those Euro springs. And now he's confirmed it with his notes just above. Thanks to you both again for the references and copius notes. Even though the Euros and shocks purchased separately and paired up will run me quite a bit more than the Tokico ILK252 kit I'll be considering it. I'm also waiting to hear back about whether the springs on the Tokicos are linear or progressive. I was really leaning toward linears which the Euros are. Hmmm... Thank goodness I have some time (about a week or two) before I make this decision. In the meantime I'll be finishing the rebuild on my transmission; it seems like I got caught up in that "while I'm at it" thinking when I pulled the trans to rebuild it and replace the clutch and flywheel - I went after the rear suspension too. No worries since I did the pins a while back. I'll have to try the damper replacement without pulling the upright next time. Although, I was fortunate enough to get a stand up spring compressor on the cheap when my brother closed his shop a while back so that might not be useable if I don't pull the upright out. Decisions. Fun ones. Why is it that cutting a spring will raise its rate?
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