AZ-240z

Arne, Nice find on the part number of this clip. I noticed that the picture you attached from the parts CD shown it installed on the cargo deck in some way. Is this the same part used for the carpet in front of the seats? Is the same part used somewhere on the rear cargo deck? I have noticed that sometimes the CD is not totally accurate as to where they shown parts. Thanks, Arne for any thoughts. Dan

Mike, great pictures of both the early carpet and later examples. You have been able to jar my old persons early memory of what my car had when new. My car is a 1/71 series 1 and had the carpet with clear backing as you have shown. I am a little confused by the comments of some as to how the luggage straps were secured at the forward edge just behind the luggage riser panel. I am quite certain that mine originally was secured with screws through the strap bracket and through the carpet. There were no holes , slits, or surged openings through which the straps ran to be secured to the bare deck surface. Also, the forward most edge of the carpet was not surged, and extended up the back of the luggage riser panel and held in place by the plastic riser trim strip. Dan

Jim, I am thinking of reproducing the correct carpets for my 1/71 series 1 car but need to find good original carpet pieces for correct patterns. The carpet pieces that go behind the seats and around the black plastic tool and jack covers are particularly challenging as the pattern seems to have changed depending on whether the car was an early series 1 or late series 1. What vin or build date car did your original pieces come from if you don't mind my asking? My car, also, has the two L shaped brackets just in front of the seats on both sides to secure the foot well carpets. The carpet there will have rectangular holes for these which need to be surge bound. Finding someone with a surging machine that car do closed openings like this is also challenging. Dan

Will, If the above was in reply to my suggestion, Dan, instead of Dave, I appreciate the update on your efforts to do these reproductions. Anyone who would take on such a tast has my admiration and gratitude. Thanks, and I will follow your progress with great interest. Dan

Will, I was just doing a search for early series 1 antennas, which I desperately need for my restoration, and though of something else that goes with Arne's request. There was, also, a black plastic spacer, I guess, that fit between the black plastic hemispherical piece that arne mentioned and a chrome securing nut which secured the mast and finisher hardware to the quarter panel. There is, also, a chrome, dome shaped washer that sat on top of the black hemispherical piece, but i didn't want to confuse my description. This black plastic spacer suffered the same UV destruction as the hemispherical piece. Doing both of these plastic pieces would renew the mounting hardware dramatically. Just a thought. Dan

TomoHawk, I have bought boxes of these at my local Nissan Parts Counter. Just take all of the part numbers you can find on the CD for the bolts you want, order a sample of each, and see what arrives. Some come with capture washers, but those can be cut off if needed. Dan

FilipeA, Who did the carpet pieces shown in your link? They appear to be quite good reproductions of the original loop pile carpet with the surge bound edges. Thanks, and I just put your link in my favorites for future reference. I can hardly wait to see good pictures of the finished car. Dan

I just had my set of reproduction U.S. spec springs installed with a set of Mulholland struts. I couldn't be happier with the results as I am looking for totally stock appearance with a decent ride. In reference to Carl's figures, above, my front and rear rocker measurements are 8 inches and 8 1/2 inches respectively. The front wheel arches are 6 1/2 inches and the rear wheel arches are 6 7/8 inches. The wheels are stock steel 14 inch wheels with 185/70 14 tires. As Arne has described in another thread, the ride is firm but not harsh. As my car is not a daily driver the firm ride is not an issue and I kind of like the road feedback it gives. I was kind of concerned, as others with the KYB gas struts were getting higher road clearance figures, but with those Mulholland hydraulic struts, Carl, your quality control efforts with these reproductions appears to have resulted in perfect springs. My thanks to all who were involved with accomplishing this project. Dan

Carl, Dave, dimitri, Bob, Thanks for your research and time taken to check out my questions. I agree with the majority opinion here, hex head bolts and shaved washers. As carl stated the number of shaved washers could be somewhat random but were found on the fenders and not on the headlight housings. Carl makes another good point. I was going to leave all of the lock washers off because a few bolts have a clearance issue with the hood. Should I leave just those lock washers off, or grind the head of the bolt on those areas, or leave all lock washers off for the sake of uniformity? Thanks Dan Dave, good point about the anti-seize, but the only water my cars sees is from a bucket of soapy water.

Dave, I totally agree that at least some of these 6 washers have a flat, or cut off side with some of the lock washers missing for hood clearance issues. I think that you misunderstood about the hex head bolts, with or without, the phillips cross in the head. I was refering to the bolts used with those 18mm washers, not to the screws for the rubber bumpers. Thanks for the input. Dan

Hi Dave, I agree that the 18mm washers used for the 6 fender bolts, 3 on each side, should probably be flat sided so as not to interfere with with curled lip of the fender flang. I think you misunderstood about the hex head bolts, with or without the phillips cross. I was refering to the bolts that are used with the above washers to secure the fender, not the screws for the four rubber bumpers. Thanks Dan

Hi Dave, I agree that the 18mm washers used for the 6 fender bolts, 3 on each side, should probably be flat sided so as not to interfere with with curled lip of the fender flang. I think you misunderstood about the hex head bolts, with or without the phillips cross. I was refering to the bolts that are used with the above washers to secure the fender, not the screws for the four rubber bumpers. Thanks Dan

Thanks, Bob. I have concluded that the bolts are just hex head but some of the washers I've seen on some early cars do have a few of the flat-sided washers, as I vaguely recall mine did. I am going to do the loop pile which was original to the series 1 cars, wool if I can find it wide enough, otherwise the synthetic fiber. I, also, have some good leads on natural fibre jute, probably not as good as what Kats has found. Just need to find a good set of patterns for carpet in the footwells, and areas behind the seats and under the plastic tool covers. Where were you able to find the female, I guess, snaps that mated up with the original male half on the firewall padding? I am still working on those gold emissions decals, the challenge is the real enjoyment, and am getting very close to something very good, I think. Thank for the additional info Bob, and keep any thoughts or comments coming. Dan

Sorry 'bout that. It is not working for me know, either. Maybe if Carl Beck sees this, he can chime in with the correct address.

Do you have the idler pulley? The one I am looking for was mounted just in front of the fuel pump because the A/C compressor is mounted just infront of and below the carb air filter housing. If you have it, want to sell it, you might PM me a picture if it's not too much trouble. Thanks. Dan

It sounds like you may be looking at pictures of a much later 240z, Bob. I am fairly certain that the flat washers were 18mm OD, much larger than the lock washers, which does hit that lip on my car and gets into the paint. I know that at least two of mine originally had one side filed down so as not to hit this lip but can not recall if all six had been flatten on one edge. Aren't the hood hinge bolts a larger bolt than the fender bolts? I am certain mine are larger, but will have to check when I return to Phoenix this week. This is interesting, though, as it seems to be raising more questions than expected. Bob, is the carpet set that you had made the loop pile or cutt pile carpet? I noticed that you removed the AC from your car, and I am thinking of doing the same to make life simpler. I do drive the car occasionally just to keep everything maintained or for club activities. Dan

Bob, good to hear from you. I could have sworn that those hex head bolts had the phillips cross. Did you happen to notice if the fender washers were cut off or flattened on one side so as to not hit that flared lip on the fender flange? And, didn't all of these bolts also have lock washers installed? Sometimes these lock washers were removed, possibly by dealers I've been told, if there was a clearance issue with the edge of the hood. Any comments on any of these items would be most welcome. Thanks also to Zs-ondabrain for his comments which confirms what seems to be a unanimous answer to my questions. Dan Original Owner/hls30-20419

Check out http://zhome.com/Concourz/. Under engines, there is a short pictoral explanation of the early oil pan, but no definitive information as to vin#s or dates of manufacture. I have been curious, too, as I have a 1/71 series 1, but, from what I have been able to discover, these early pans only came on very early, possibly only on 1969, cars. There was a structural flaw on these, and required dealers to weld a patch panel on to strength an area where vibration cracks were occuring near the drain plug. Dan

I need a little help in remembering what was correct with the fender to inner hood securing bolts and washers, as my fenders have been off and on in various stages of restoration by different people. My car is a very late series 1 240z manuf. in 1/71. There are 5 bolts and washers on each fender, 3 to secure the inner fender, and 2 to secure the headlight housing to the inner fender. My questions are: 1. Are all, or part, of these 5 bolts phillips hex head bolts, or just hex head bolts? 2. The fender washers are, I think, 18mm OD washers. Do some, or all, of these washers have a cut off edge so as to clear the flared lip of the inner fender flange? If anyone with a pretty unmolested series 1 car would like to take a look at their car, It would be greatly appreciated. Dan

Edit: Actually, according to the zhome information, the 8/70 date I mentioned applied to a change of tire model, not wheel color. The tires changed from Bridgestone Superspeed - 20 to Bridgestone HD - 150 tires. My point was that the shade of black also changed in that general time reference from semi gloss to flat. Sorry about the inaccuracy in my post.

Chris, Wasn't there some pictures of your wheel and Bob Speight's wheel on the zhome concourz site. Did the color not change from semi gloss black to flat black on 8/70? I have a full set of flat black wheels all date stamped 11/70 which are flat black outer rim and gray inner rim. It really only matters, I would imagine, if you are interested in exact concourz original appearance. Just an observation Dan

[quote name=Zulaytr;243204) So for this past years convention I took the manifold off and removed all the paint and rust and coated it using the Eastwood dressing (see picture). However' date=' if you buy a new exhaust system from Nissan the pipes and muffler is now powder coated black. Hi Bob, Your manifold looks incredible. This, as well as getting a new loop pile carpet set, are next on my to-do list. Is the manifold dressing you used the Eastwood dressing shown in their online catalogue, referenced by Kenz240z above, on page 40, item #11171? I'll probably have Les do the carpets when I can find a correct pattern for the pieces that go behind the seats and under the black plastic tool and jack bins, but this is for another thread started Arne today. I've been meaning to PM you about your win at the convention, and hope to do that shortly. Dan

Carl, If you see the car, check out the oil pan. It appears to be one of the earliest found on '69 & '70 cars, not one a series 11 car. Thanks. Dan

I agree with Carl. It appears that a shiny paint job was applied to mask many faults that should have been addressed first. I would say that the front and rear valence panel have seen quite a bit of damage and a lot of doors and panels don't fit very well, just as starters. The one gem that I take away from this is seeing the very earliest of oil pans on a 10,xxx vin car. I always wanted to know how far into the production they carried this pan which had structural design problems. It appears at least halfway through the series 1 cars.